BAC Forum
General Boards => Technical Support => Topic started by: Stan Simpson on September 29, 2012, 05:18:57 PM
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I've searched, but can't find instructions on winterizing with Aqua Hot. With our Endeavor we blew out the water lines at 45 psi and put some pink stuff in the drains, after draining and bypassing the water heater. I've read that not winterizing the Aqua Hot properly can lead to severe damage. Is there a previous thread on this, or can someone who does it themselves post a step by step for winterizing the coach with Aqua Hot?
Thank you,
Stan
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Well what I do...
1. On the trip home, open the water tank, low drain ports and all water faceuts. The drive slushs the water out.
2. When I get home I blow the lines at about 45-50 PSI, Close all facuets and run the washer icemaker, and water dispenser on fridge.
3. Disconnect the water lines from the fridge and blow again.
4. run the washer on spin only
5. remove the panel in the bay by the Aquahot unit and disconnect the in and out lines and blow them out.
6. I bought a hand pump for the antifreeze and while it is difficult, I pump the fluid into the Aquahot unit in flow to the unit connector until pink starts to come out the outflow on the aquahot connection. Then I pump the fluid into the same outflow connector until I see Pink coming out the inflow connector Aquahot
Right or wrong it has worked lasted winter.
But then depending on your location you might not need to worry about it. We get temps into the low 20s that can last a few days. But we also lack the ability to keep electric connect on the coach. If you can keep it plugged in, then the electric side of the aquahot should be enough to keep the system from freezing even at 20 for an extend period. If your area rarely sees freezing I would think it would not be a worry.
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I live in extreme northern IL and we will have temps down to -20 or so, and our average for January and February is a low of 13 and a high of 34. If I have it stored inside, I'm thinking it will be okay even at those temps.
Thanks, Sean. I appreciate the help.
Stan
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Stan,
The problem with no winterizing the AquaHot properly is that the the fresh water loop inside the unit can not be blown out to remove all of the water. So if fresh water is allowed to freeze in the fresh water loop inside the unit it can cause a crack in the fresh water loop that can not be repaired without replacing the AquaHot itself.
Leaving the AquaHot electric element turned on if the coach is plugged in will stop this problem. However if the power goes off where the coach is stored, or the electric element malfunctions at the temperatures that you described, sever damage will occur if fresh water is left in the unit.
A few gallons of RV antifreeze is cheap insurance against the type of damage that can be done to an AquaHot by freezing temperatures. But you can always take my approach to winterizing and just keep the coach south of Interstate 10 and avoid the problem by staying warm.
Gerald
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Stan,
This may help.
Steve
http://www.ocalahitch.com/Aqua-Hot-Hydro-Hot.aspx
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The October 2012 edition of the Family Motor Coaching magazine is highlighting this very subject. Page 43.
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You should have a winterizing bypass with your water pump configuration, as set up at the factory; I'm not sure why Sean is using a manual pump. It isn't hard to stick the plastic tube in a jug of pink, shut off the line coming from the water tank, and turn on a hot water tap til pink comes out. If you don't know where your water pump and valves are, it's probably behind a carpeted removable panel like ours is, in the wall below the cable TV and a couple 120v outlets in the passenger side storage bay. The casing for all this extrudes into the adjoining tank bay, where it can benefit from the heating unit there.
That at least covers your rear regarding the spendy AquaHot. But as long as I was at it, I'd likely do the whole job, get several gallons and pump through all the other plumbing fixtures, including any icemaker. A cup of pink in the drum and cycled once will do a washer/dryer unit. I usually blow out the system first, including cycling the icemaker even though it has heat tape protection. But if you are confident in your building's temperature maintenance (it wouldn't fail in a power outage, say), at least doing the AquaHot would offer fail-safe peace of mind re. super-expensive repairs.
The links mentioned by others should help with details.
Joel
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Thanks all. I got the new issue of FMCA magazine yesterday, and hadn't looked at it yet.
Stan
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Hey Joel, I personally do not like putting anything other than water in my likes. So I just make the extra effort to just do the Aquahot. My last Rig survived 5 years in Alaska with just opening the low drain points, flipping the Drain on the hotwater tank and opening the water drain valve. I never even blew out the lines.
My underlining fear of the Pink stuff is that I feel that if I can't drink it, leaving it in the lines for upto six months will contaminate the Plasctic lines... not that plastic is really good for you. And pumping Jamesons into the line, while expensive, tends to annoy the DW when I am laying on the ground drinking in the flush water from previous mentioned lines during the spring RV prep.
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Yes, I've found that quite time-consuming myself. But if you ever opt to do it again, try Evan Williams. It's not quite as hard on the plumbing, the pocketbook, or the DW.
Joel
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Evan WIlliams... Will do.
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I started the winterizing today. I open the low point drains as suggested above. About 2 gallons of water came out, yet the Aladdin says I have 37 gallons in the fresh water tank. Should I raise one side of the level coach to get it to drain more? Or is the water remaining in the Aqua Hot tank?
Stan
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Stan,
The low point drains will clear some of the water from the hot and cold pressure water lines. They will not drain the water tank by gravity or the Aqua Hot coil. The main tank of the Aqua Hot should have a solution of antifreeze in it. The 37 gallons in your tank will require either running the pump until the tank empties or in some coaches there is a pull lever that opens a gate valve to drain the tank. Mine is located forward in the main storage bay. Don't be surprised if the Alladin indicates that you have water in the tank when it is empty. Its accuracy is based on its current calibration.
Later Ed
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If your '05 Monterey is like mine, there should be a switch in your utilities bay that opens the water tank's drain valve, which is under the tank on the curb side. My switch is right next to the bay's water pump switch and both are to the left of the bay's Alladin monitor.
As Ed indicated, the 2 gallons you got out of the manifold drains were only what was in the water lines, not the tank.
Joel
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Thank you for this information!
Stan
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I've been tempted to weigh in on this topic a few times this week. Finally I couldn't resist. Winterizing is a PITA, but not a big one. We live near Seattle and don't get many hard freezes. But, with climate change or bad luck, it can get cold enough to break things.
The usual AquaHot fix for freeze damage is replacing it for about $8000. On top of that, there is a lot of plumbing in hard to reach places were fixing a fitting is hard. The plastic "pipe" used in RVs rarely cracks from a freeze. It is the fittings that fail.
Using the electric element to protect against freezing is not reliable. It can burn out and mine did -- a couple days before a freeze. And, the power can go out, especially in ice storms.
Blowing water out works for many RVs, but not AquaHot equipped RVs. It will get most of of the water out, but not what might settle to the bottom of the Aqua Hot heat exchanger coils.
The only 100% reliable winterizing method (other than going south like Gerald) is the pink RV propylene glycol antifreeze. Fear of antifreeze is appropriate for the ethylene glycol we use in our radiators. If your radiator leaks in your car or motorhome you are killing dogs and cats that like to drink it. For that reason, there are formulations of antifreeze using propylene glycol. They are expensive, but work.
Incidentally, it is propylene glycol that is used in the "boiler antifreeze" we buy for the operating fluid in our AquaHots. It is used in case a leak develops and it gets into the hot water system. Even if it passes your lips, it won't hurt you.
If you look up propylene glycol in Wikipedia it lists several interesting uses. Sean may even be consuming some without knowing it! Among the uses listed are:
- As a solvent in many pharmaceuticals, including oral, injectable and topical formulations
As an emulsification agent in Angostura and orange bitters (No more Old Fashions or Manhattens)
As a moisturizer in medicines, cosmetics, food, toothpaste, shampoo, mouth wash, hair care and tobacco products
In hand sanitizers, antibacterial lotions, and saline solutions
As a solvent for food colors and flavorings
To regulate humidity in a cigar humidor
Used in the beverage mixer Sweet N Sour (no more Whiskey Sours)
The FDA allows propylene glycol to be added to a large number of processed foods, including ice cream, frozen custard, and baked goods
[/list]
(It might be fun to find a comparison on the toxicity of ethanol compared to propylene glycol. Some of us know ethanol can hurt us sometimes!)
If you don't have a bypass valve like Joel's, it is easy to unscrew the feed line from the water tank at the pump and attach a hose. The fitting on the pump is standard 1/2 inch pipe. Any hardware store can get you a female 1/2 pipe fitting and a garden hose fitting that will screw together. While your at the hardware store, get a 1/2 plug for the tank hose. If it is full, it will siphon out while it is not connected.
Once you have your garden hose adapter on the pump, screw your water hose to it. It helps some if it is a short water hose. Put the loose end in a bucket with about 4 gallons of pink propylene glycol in it. My Beaver seems to need about 4 gallons plus a quart. Turn the pump on and go to every plumbing fixture and run it till you see pink flow out. Don't forget the toilet with it's spray wand and the shower. Blowing the lines is completely unnecessary, but it might save on a quart or two of antifreeze. You are also getting pink stuff in the drain traps, which is useful.
So far, we have only spent about $20 and taken 15 minutes.
The hard parts are the Splendide, the ice maker and the city inlet. The Splendide takes me about 10 minutes because I have to find, read and comply with the updated instructions that involve spinning dials and pushing buttons that I'm not normally allowed to touch. The idea is to get the pink stuff to flow through both the hot and cold lines with enough to get to and in the outlet pump.
The ice maker's weak spot is the plastic valve that has a hose fitting screwed to it. There is a valve by the ice maker filter near the pump. Turn it off and remove the filter. Heat wires are wrapped around it for normal use in the winter. You have to get those out of the way and unscrew the fitting. A little water will drain out the filter end. Pour the water out of the filter. Put it back together with a new filter or use the old one. The ice maker takes 10 or 15 minutes, but is well worth it during Martini season.
The last tricky spot is the city inlet. You push on a spot in the middle and, if the pump is on, a little pink non toxic anti freeze will squirt out. If you stand in the right place, none will get on you. If not, it is not toxic and wipes off.
This is only a two beer job and can potentially save you $8000!
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I want to make sure I'm clear on winterizing the Aqua Hot (Hydro Hot in my coach). If I winterize my coach with pink antifreeze, will that also provide winterization to the Aqua Hot system? In other words, will the antifreeze introduced into the pipes through the water intake also fill the water pipes in the Aqua Hot, or do I have to fill them separately? I assumed that the Aqua Hot receives water through the main system (city water or water tank), such that winterizing the entire system will also cover the Aqua Hot, but wanted to be sure about this.
I have winterized other, smaller RVs over the years, but this is my first time winterizing a large class A and a Beaver.
Thanks.
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Bill,
Yes if you if you pump RV antifreeze into the system at the water pump and it comes out at the hot water facet inside the coach, the AquaHot will be winterized properly. But don't forget the toilet, washer, and icemaker.
Gerald
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In other words, will the antifreeze introduced into the pipes through the water intake also fill the water pipes in the Aqua Hot, or do I have to fill them separately?
When you say "water intake" I assume you mean at the pump. Some instructions I've read suggest you can do it at the city water intake. There is even a small hand pump sold for that purpose. That would work, but the motorhome's pump itself would not see any antifreeze if the city water intake is used.
If you have any questions the club directory lists my cell phone number.
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Thanks, Gerald. I'm sure this will be an adventure!
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When you say "water intake" I assume you mean at the pump. Some instructions I've read suggest you can do it at the city water intake. There is even a small hand pump sold for that purpose. That would work, but the motorhome's pump itself would not see any antifreeze if the city water intake is used.
If you have any questions the club directory lists my cell phone number.
Thanks, Bill. I will let you know if I run into problems. We plan to take a couple of trips between now and January, so I hope to hold off on winterizing until then. If we see sub-freezing temps, I will bring it to the house, plug it in and keep the heat on.
By the way, where is the connection to the pump to pull the antifreeze into the water system? Is it in the small compartment where the pump is located?
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What comes to mind setting up the RV for easy winterization is one of these three way ball valves. It is what I used in my boat in prior years. If one was to mount 1/2 inch thread to barb elbows on two of the outlets and one straight thread to barb fittings on the third outet you could mount the valve on the carpeted wood panel in the storage bay where the pump is. Secure the valve with screw eye tie wraps and bore holes in the panel to accept the barb elbow fittings. Clamp flexible water hose in proper lengths to each of the barb fittings. This valve gets plumbed into the line that feeds the pump from the water tank. You can select either the tank as an input to the pump or select the 3rd port hose which you can place in the container of non toxic antifreeze for winterizing. Basically this change gives you the ability to winterize as needed using a valve without taking anything apart.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000R8EZSS/ref=pd_lpo_k2_dp_sr_2?pf_rd_p=486539851&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B0075DNEY4&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=09ZW0RFHGF34HZQ096VD
Later Ed
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By the way, where is the connection to the pump to pull the antifreeze into the water system? Is it in the small compartment where the pump is located?
Yes. Infact you connect directly to that pump.
One post here says that some Beavers came with a valve. In the post above, Ed shows an example of one you can install. There are valve kits for this at Camping World.
That said, I find it very easy to unscrew the hose going into the pump from the water tank and attach a new hose to it. In other words, if your coach did not come with the valve you can spend an hour installing one to save a 5 minute task once a year. Besides, there is a filter screen on the pump that should be rinsed off anyway.
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That's great help, Bill. I will take a look at it the next time I am at the coach. Thanks again for your advice, and thanks to the others who contributed helpful hints in this thread. I continue to see the great value that this forum has for its members.
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As others indicate, some coaches came from the factory all plumbed with hose and shutoff valves, and that's how ours is - already setup to go in the water pump cubicle. Just drain all lines at the manifold, blow lines out if you prefer, flip the valves in question at the pump, stick the clear tube in a couple bottles of RV antifreeze, and turn on the pump and each plumbing fixture until you get pink coming out, not ignoring any icemaker that you may have to manually cycle. and include the hot faucets to make sure fluid gets through the hydronic unit's tubes. Some disassemble the icemaker solenoid in/out lines for insurance. Our washing machine requires only a cup of antifreeze in the drum and one rinse cycle. Of course, don't forget the drain traps.
Joel
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Just drain all lines at the manifold, blow lines out if you prefer, flip the valves in question at the pump, stick the clear tube in a couple bottles of RV antifreeze, and turn on the pump and each plumbing fixture until you get pink coming out, not ignoring any icemaker that you may have to manually cycle. and include the hot faucets to make sure fluid gets through the hydronic unit's tubes. Some disassemble the icemaker solenoid in/out lines for insurance. Our washing machine requires only a cup of antifreeze in the drum and one rinse cycle. Of course, don't forget the drain traps.
Joel,
I don't see value in draining and blowing the lines because the antifreeze is going to chase the water out anyway.
I do see value in disassembling the icemaker valve. It is plastic, exposed to the outside air and even for normal use has heat tape wrapped around it.
If you have a Splendide, the procedures changed from the manual that came with ours. Throwing a little in the drum did nothing for the hot and cold lines leading to it. It needs to be run momentarily set to both hot, then cold to get antifreeze through the coach plumbing as well as the washer/dryer itself.
Again, as Gerald recommends, going south is the better way in every case!
Bill
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Bill,
Thanks for this valuable information. Just like Bill Jordain, I have always used a hand pump to pump the pink stuff through my lines, using the city water intake, and not thinking of the water in the water pump. My problem is that I don't know where the water pump is...
There is a pump behind a wall in the bay just to the left of the Aqua Hot bay, but I thought that was for the ice maker because it has a filter on it. I have a slide out tray in that bay, so I will likely have to remove the slide out bay to get to that pump, unless there's a way to open the door. Any way, Bill Sprague, I may be calling you...lol. I have your phone from a long time ago when you helped me with another problem. Does anyone else have an idea where the water pump is?
Stan
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On our '06 Monterey, Stan, there is a cream colored plastic box that extrudes through the right side wall of the black and gray (waste) tank bay. The pump and all associated items are in that box. It sounds like you've already found the pump because you actually get to the pump and access the box by simply removing the small carpeted panel with the finger hole in the next bay forward, a storage bay in which most coaches have mounted a slide out floor. In mine, the pump access panel is high enough on the left wall of that bay, below a couple 120v and TV outlets, that I don't have to remove the slide to get it open.
Now, if you haven't discovered the waste tank bay yet, it's probably because its door doesn't have the normal latch. Our waste tank bay is immediately in front of the passenger side rear wheel well, and has two swing arm latches nearly hidden underneath along the front edge of the door. Pressing on the latch's small vertical tab releases a lever which when swung down will take tension off an arm that catches and holds the door. Inside the compartment in addition to waste tanks and piping you may find several Alladin modules, a heat exchanger to keep your basement and water fixtures from getting too cold as long as the Hydronic system is operational, a thermostat probe for it, and perhaps a solar power control model and other stuff.
The pump you found certainly sounds like your coach water pump. It has it's own removeable screen filter on it which needs at least annual cleaning, and the filter you saw is in the line to the ice maker. It may be due for a changeout as well. With the access cover off you should be able to sort out what valves control what, from previous posts here, and how to use the pump to get antifreeze into your system.
Bill, blowing out and/or draining keeps water out of my empty waste tanks; but it is certainly not a mandatory part of the job. It keeps the antifreeze at my preferred dilution %, plus I can recapture some of it at dewinterizing in the spring and reuse it the next year.
Joel
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Another question. I have my coach sitting in the drive way, plugged in to a 30 amp power source. The other day, I turned on the electric switch for the Aqua Hot, and then the furnace. Nothing happened. When I turned on the diesel Aqua Hot switch, and started the generator, the furnace came on. How can one keep the furnace on over night, even at a campground, if it doesn't work off of just electrical?
Stan
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Stan,
The Aqua Hot runs on 12V with the exception of the 120V element that will heat the resevoir with an AC power source. I'm not sure what happened here. You can check to be sure that the house batteries are getting charged properly and are sitting at 13V+ with the inverter charger enabled while you are plugged in. I assume that if you have a battery cut off switch to the "House" and that it was on. The most likely explanation is that the chassis batteries started the generator and then the charging system being fed by the generator (using the charger inverter) supplied voltage to a dischaged battery bank that then ran the Aqua Hot or for some reason the House batteries were disconnected by switch or other means. The good news is that the Aqua Hot is fine (they are expensive to work on) and that this is a relatively simple checking of voltages at the house battery and charging system to see what might be wrong.
Later Ed
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Just had the annual service done on my Hydro Hot. Not sure how long it had been since his was last done (I bought the coach in July), but it has been at least several years. They discovered a cracked and leaking combustion chamber that was replaced and all seems to be working well now. Before this service the system was sporadic when using the diesel burner.
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Thanks Bill for the report on the lesser evils of the antifreeze... I just prefer to not use it if I don't have to, but I do pump it into the Aquahot as mentioned. As for the mixers that use the stuff, I like mine neat or maybe some ice...
Really, thanks for the report... I am sure it clears the air.
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All,
The Aqua Hot web site has a full complement of downloadable manuals (Operating, Service, Parts). I found the service manual very helpful when performing annual maintenance on mine and replacing the nozzle, etc.
Steve
http://www.aquahot.com/Library.aspx
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Stan, it takes awhile for the AquaHot electric element to heat up the exchanger, and it isn't as good at dealing with much demand as the diesel burner is. You have to be patient and allow the electric time to heat before hitting the thermostat, and on 30 amp power, with no other appliance on, you shouldn't need the generator; even after you turn on the thermostat, the element has to work hard exchanging heat with pumped fluid. The better move is simply hitting the more efficient diesel burner switch to get things heated right away. The electric element by itself is more for maintenance of heat level, not building it up quickly. And if you notice, if you draw any hot water while your floor heaters are running, they will stop. Hot water has the priority for hydronic energy, not space heating.
For overnight, our electric element is adequate for maintaining 60 degrees or less, even on 20 amp power sources (as long as you don't have some other heavy draw on), but in the morning I often have to kick in the diesel burner for quicker warm up. You can always use your roof air's heat pump overnight, but it takes some juice. If you are in a very cold climate, the electric element likely won't be enough by itself to maintain your interior.
Sometimes you just have to burn some fuel. But as an alternative, when on adequate park power, we use a little box heater to augment the coach system, and it can easily be placed anywhere we want the most heat. Though just as noisy as the AquaHot exchangers, it can by itself maintain at 60 degrees overnight. And for sleeping, whether furnace, box heater, or heat pump, they all make noise so we keep it only in the front of the coach.
Joel
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Thanks Bill for the report on the lesser evils of the antifreeze... I just prefer to not use it if I don't have to, but I do pump it into the Aquahot as mentioned. As for the mixers that use the stuff, I like mine neat or maybe some ice...
Really, thanks for the report... I am sure it clears the air.
I had fun looking it up and tried to make it a humorous!
I like it neat too. Somewhere I read that the history of cocktails is about mixers that can hide the taste of Prohibition era bad booze. Further, the people that make liquor, especially the brown ones, work hard at keeping in flavors you don't want hidden. On the other hand, I'm sure there are people that insist the bourbon in their diet 7-Up is Maker's Mark.
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...... But as an alternative, when on adequate park power, we use a little box heater to augment the coach system, and it can easily be placed anywhere we want the most heat. Though just as noisy as the AquaHot exchangers, it can by itself maintain at 60 degrees overnight. .......
Joel,
I use one similar to this: http://www.amazon.com/Lasko-5624-Profile-Silent-Heater/dp/B002Q4EYEQ/ref=pd_sbs_hg_5. I bought it at an Ace Hardware. It is silent. On low it draws about 8 amps and provides most of our heat until it gets real cold.
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@ Bill and Joel.... Clink... Cheers
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No, I started the generator. But I'm checking the inverter/charger to make sure the settings are correct.
Thanks.
Stan
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On your Magnum panel, Stan, press the "Shore" button, then rotate the large black knob to the amp setting to match your incoming power, and press the knob in to select that setting (which many forget to do).
Thanks for the link to the quiet heater, Bill. I may consider it, but it's not as adjustable or as small as our forced air box. Radiant heat has advantages, especially if it's pointed at you, and my wife would enjoy that; but the noisy fan in our 5"X5"X6" Big Heat pushes heat to other areas, so I leave it on low in the coach entryway all night, pointed offset down the coach middle. Strategic placement behind a front seat helps mute some noise as it cycles on and off, minimizing sleep disturbance.
Joel
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Thanks to all who posted tips and instructions. I went and bought 4 gallons of pink stuff...and a 1/2 in female connection as outlined above. I found the water pump behind the wall in the bay to left of the wet bay. I have a slide out in there, but its a pull through on both sides, so I pulled it out on the other side of the coach, and that gave me room to open the door that accessed the water pump, ice maker filter, and another low point drain. I disconnected the water line from the water pump and screwed on the adapter, after cleaning the little filter on the pump. I put three gallons of pink stuff in a plastic 5 gallon bucket and connected a 4 foot hose to the pump. I stuck the hose in the bucket and Becky turned on the water in the coach, along with the water pump. It sucked the pink stuff in to all of the water lines. We turned all of the cold faucets on until the water ran pink, and then the hot in each one until they ran hot and pink. I dumped pink stuff in every drain, cycled the ice maker, and then put 2 cups of pink stuff in the drum of the WD and ran the spin cycle.
I'm pretty sure we're all winterized. Time spent 2 hours, with breaks to watch college football on the TV in the coach. Total cost, $14.00 including the 1/2 in adapter which is re-usable.
All good. Thanks all!!
Stan
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Good job Dude! I'm not sure you needed the AquaHot actually on, though, to move the fluid through to the hot water outlets and fill the AquaHot exchanger.
But now you can relax, with confidence your rig is protected.
Joel
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Joel,
Yes, I had the Aqua Hot on, running the generator and had it plugged in.
Stan
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The last tricky spot is the city inlet. You push on a spot in the middle and, if the pump is on, a little pink non toxic anti freeze will squirt out. If you stand in the right place, none will get on you. If not, it is not toxic and wipes off.
This is only a two beer job and can potentially save you $8000!
I've spent the morning wnterizing. I connected a hose to the pump intake and have pink antifreeze flowing at all hot and cold points inside the coach. The problem is that I can't seem to get a back flow of antifreeze from the city inlet as described in the quote above. Short of using a hand pump at the city inlet is there a better way to handle winterizing this?
Thanks
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I've spent the morning wnterizing. I connected a hose to the pump intake and have pink antifreeze flowing at all hot and cold points inside the coach. The problem is that I can't seem to get a back flow of antifreeze from the city inlet as described in the quote above. Short of using a hand pump at the city inlet is there a better way to handle winterizing this?
Thanks
He's a photo of my efforts. My concern is the city water intake and the pipe show at the top of this photo that still has water in it. It is also flowing a little water into the filter that has been removed in this photo for the connection of the tube that is in the bucket. Will forcing antifreeze into the city inlet with a pump also force antifreeze into this pipe and the pump filter?
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With a hose adapter fitting coupled in on the output side of the pump, you can attach a hose and use the coach water pump to push anti freeze into the city water inlet. With a clamp or a valve temporarily block off the water feed from the output side of the pump that feeds the coach. Open just one cold water faucet that is close to the city water feed, maybe the kitchen sink would be good. Some antifreeze, followed by a shot of clear water should be followed by the antifreeze that is feeding the water pump. When you see that it should be done.
The other option is to unscrew the city water feed from the panel and loosen the clamp on the hose and pull the hose enough to allow flow. Using the coach pump allow some antifreeze to purge out....Whichever one of these methods is easier for your particular coach, either will work. I would doubt that you would get a problem if you did not do one of these procedures but it is good to not worry about it......
Later Ed