BAC Forum
General Boards => Technical Support => Topic started by: Larry and Heidi Lee on September 22, 2009, 12:00:29 AM
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Hello, I have a 2005 Beaver Monterey 34 with the C9. The exhaust brake doesn't work. I pulled the engine access cover up and had someone toggle the exhaust brake switch with the engine running and the cylinder shaft doesn't move. I realize I have some additional troubleshooting but wanted to see if anyone had a similar problem and what they found. Also I cannot locate the electric air/solenoid...does anyone know where it is buried? I also have had trouble locating the electrical check points that feed the solenoid ...any help would be greatly appreciated ::)
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As I have never owned a cat engine with an exhaust brake, I am no expert, but I do not think that the cylinder should have moved in the circumstance that you described. The controls on the exhaust brake only allow activation with the throttle at idle and the engine RPMs above 1000. I think that the relay that controls the air valve is located in the LF electrical bay. The air valve can be located by tracing the air line from the cylinder back to the valve.
A call to the Bend Service Center may be helpful.
Gerald
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Adding to Geralds statement. Transmission has to be in second or higher gear. Checking the operation may be outlined in your owners manual for the Pac Brake or a Test procedure may be available here. http://www.pacbrake.com/index.php?page=motorhome
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Hi Gerald and Richard, does anyone have the Bend phone number handy? Thank-you in advance.
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The numbers for Beaver Coach Sales in Bend are
Sales: 800-382-2597 Local: 541-322-2184
Service: 800-843-2967 Local: 541-317-3669
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Thank you Gerald, I have saved the information to my cell phone and computer. I gave tech support a call and was told to test the Pac brake again at 1500 RPM. I am certain it won't work because I nearly killed myself going down a 7% 8 mile grade the other day... ??) The Ebrake never engages. No information from tech support as to which relay to check or any other electrical info. Any assistance in this area would be appreciated. ::)
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We have an 03 Contessa with 370 Hp Cummins and recently had the Pac Brake fail. It turned out that the brake had frozen and would not work. Cummins said that they managed to free it up to test it but that they also said that it would continue to freeze up. The answer was to replace it and that is what we did. The new brake works better than the original due to some changes in design. Good luck with your problem. :)
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One note about PAC Brake is to use them. Ours is on 95% of the time and we have not had a problem in close to 10 years.
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Don't know if this will help, but you asked for electric info.
Our '06 Monterey 36 ft. shows relay K9 in the forward 12v. electrical bay as the Exhaust Brake Solenoid one, with K6 (E991 Retarder) relay between it and the engine ECM module. The "Exhaust Brake Engaged" dash lamp wire splices into wire 204 between K9 and the Exhaust Solenoid, so taking what Gerald and Richard have said into consideration (engine RPM and transmission), if that lamp turns on at adequate RPM and gear, one could infer a liklihood that the problem was between the solenoid and its ground or the valve itself, not in any component before it.
I agree with Richard also, and have read elsewhere the same philosophy, that using the exhaust brake is the best way to prevent "freeze-up".
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Hi Joel and fellow Beaver's, thanks for your responses. The "exhaust brake" light does illuminate when the switch is toggled so I suspect a mechanical failure of some sort. I appreciate the elecrical information and will take a look at the relay and ground points. I have the coach parked at a friends gigantic :) indoor 8 bay residential shop (every mans dream) so I will be working on it over the next few weekends and will update everyone.
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There are several lubrication points on a Pac Brake cylinder and linkage that might help your problem. Be sure to use synthetic oil because of the heat. Pac Brake sells their own oil or you can use an equilivent engine oil.
Gerald
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HiLarLee-
Your model may be enough unlike mine that the specifics I gave aren't germaine to your rig. You should really use your wiring diagram book if you have it, as mine has a page specifically dedicated to the exhaust brake wiring. If it is still legible and intact, you will also find useful the 12v electric component legend that is hopefully still glued to the inside of the electrical bay door. The relays in the book and on the legend sheet are designated by the letter "K".
But from what you said, and given the fairly clean and solid connections in the bay, I'd spend my first efforts on the mechanical parts rather than the electrical. If the linkage is free and operational, then maybe check the solenoid ground. The dash lamp I mentioned has its own ground, so as long as current could flow in the wire (my #204) that it splices to, it would light up even if the solenoid the wire goes to had a weak ground or other issue. I'm not sure what kind of solenoid it is, but in my day I've seen even the veritable old "Ford" type of solenoids give up internally (corroded, burned points), so reckon that's possible in your case too. As noted above, however, that wouldn't be my first bet.
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Hi Joel and all, I ordered a 05 Monterey wiring diagram from Beaver for $55.00 and to my dismay it is incomplete in many areas and does not have the e-brake circuit. I agree with you my problem is most likely mechanical and will let you know. Why does it have to be in the 100's this wekend? :o Why can't I live in Bend Oregon? :P
ps: I hear you loud and clear about $15 solenoid failures in general. The ignition solenoid failed in my coach last year and I lost all power while coming off a freeway off ramp! I went with a solid state electronic solenoid replacement.
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Geez Joel thats an awful nice offer from you. I would be really grateful if you can send what you have to: llee@tigertechinc.com
I checked the inside door of my electrical compartment but I find no schematic.
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I located the Pac brake air solenoid buried towards the front of the small engine access cover in front of the rear bedroom wardrobe closet. Following the airline it was hanging by a couple nylon zip ties. I was pleasently surprised to find I could disassemble the solenoid and found some corrosion on the plunger shaft. I cleaned it up with a little WD-40 and now it works as it should. Finally I have exhaust brakes! I made a bracket and relocated the entire assembly so it is easily accessible. I also pulled all the wheels and drums (I recommend two people for this) off and found the rear drums had heat cracks so I picked up two brand new drums at a local NAPA for $220!!! :) Brake shoes were 90%. Oil and fuel filter changes, new 6V batteries (Costco $70 each) and I'm ready to go again.
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You may want to lubricate the plunger shaft as the WD40 is more of a drying and cleaning agent and not a lubricant. Pac Brake should have a reccomendation. Sounds like a great price for the rotors.
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Hey Richard, Pac Brake does advise lubrication on the cylinder mechanism but the part that stuck was the electric air switch solenoid that feeds air to the cylinder. This electrical DC part should not be lubricated in my opinion. The original owners of this coach were from Florida and I found what appeared to be white salt deposits on the switch shaft probably from sitting and lack of use.
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HilarLee I have seen a special high temperature lubricant reccomendation for the cylinder if one is used as the the wrong lubrication may do more harm than good.
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Our Pacbrake failed recently. Same symptoms: the "exhaust brake" light illuminates, but the brake does not engage. Cummins in Medford, OR took it apart and found that the butterfly rod was bent and there was soot jamming it. They cleaned it up and straightened the rod, but it failed again after it got hot.
BTW, an easy way to tell whether it is working is to watch the turbo boost on your Aladdin system. When the Pacbrake engages, the boost will drop to 0.0-0.3. If you don't see that drop, it isn't working.
I called Pacbrake. They gave had me read the number off the tag on the brake, then gave me the part number for the new (PRXB) brake for our engine. They said that list price is $769.60, and they gave me contact information for several retailers in the area. Here are the prices I got:
Cummins in Medford: "about $1,500"
Freightliner in Redding, CA: $876
J & H Performance Diesel in Redding: $770
Henderson's Line-up in Grants Pass, OR: $710
CLF Warehouse in West Sacramento, CA: $615.68
CLF had it dropped shipped from Pacbrake's Seattle warehouse on Friday, and it arrived here in Dunsmuir CA on Tuesday. Shipping was $9.50. OTOH, sales tax was over $50.
I have an appointment at a local truck repair shop to have it installed this afternoon. It should take well under an hour.
Hope that helps.
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Dave Rudisill
2004 Monterey (Cummins 350)
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David, Please let us know if can tell the "higher preformance" PXBR is better than the old one.
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David, Please let us know if can tell the "higher preformance" PXBR is better than the old one.
I just returned from having it installed. The truck repair shop is almost 2,000' further up the mountain than where we are parked, so I got to use it quite a bit.
We weren't hauling the toad, but I didn't notice any difference in performance with the new Pacbrake. A definitive test will have to wait until we head further south in a week or two.
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We had an opportunity to test the new PRXB yesterday. We descended from 2,200' to almost sea level, then drove through quite few hills to get to our current location, at 2,500'. We had one two mile 6% down grade along the way.
The PRXB definitely performs better than the original Pacbrake. On the 6% grade, it held us at 55 MPH in fourth gear with only occasional light use of the service brakes. With the old Pacbrake, I needed to keep it in third gear, below 52 MPH, using the service brakes more aggressively because we had so little braking assist from it in fourth gear.