BAC Forum
General Boards => Technical Support => Topic started by: Les Marzec on January 25, 2013, 04:03:01 AM
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I have looked for threads that dealt with this but have been unable to find them.
My infamous Norcold 1200 LRIM seem to be running ok, but only on Propane. When I try to switch the mode to AC, I get the no. AC code. Does anybody have any ideas.
Thanks
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Type in the word 'refrigerator' into Search at the top of this page. There are 9 pages of thread links to the word. While most are on other subjects there are a number that refer to the Norcold. Some are about replacement with a residential refrigerator. Try the bottom of page 5, or pages 7 and 8. When you click on the link be sure to go back to page 1 of that thread to see all the posts. At least it will get you started.
Hope this helps.
Mary
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I had the same code after I took the voltage spike in Nov....the problem was a blown fuse.
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I have looked for threads that dealt with this but have been unable to find them.
My infamous Norcold 1200 LRIM seem to be running ok, but only on Propane. When I try to switch the mode to AC, I get the no. AC code. Does anybody have any ideas.
Thanks
The fuse you are looking for is the automotive type that is glass with contacts on the ends. It is in the refer bay outside. It is behind a black plastic cover on a circuit board. The cover is behind the icemaker valve. To get to mine I have to loosen the mounting for the icemaker and remove the screws holding the black plastic cover. When you get the cover off, look in the lower left quadrant on the circuit board. If I remember right, it is a 7 amp fuse.
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I had the same "no AC" when one of the heaters failed. This was diagnosed by a Tech when I was near Temecula, CA.
When I tried to get the heaters replaced, the Tech couldn't remove it from the stack it lives in, due to excessive corrosion, so with the then 14 year age of the unit and other signs of aging, I ended up replacing the whole cooling unit with the "Amish" one.
That was in November 2011. All has been well since then.
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I had the same problem that also turned out to be a blown fuse.
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Lee,
Make sure you have AC power to the receptacle that powers the Norcold. If you have power there, check that fuse on the control board. If that fuse is good, I am afraid it is a new control card for you.
Dennis
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Thanks for the input. I entered "refrigerator" and got the info.....dont know why it did not work the other times.
I will check the fuse and see if that is blown. It worked fine last year, but when I took it out of storage, that is when I had the problem...maybe a spike..
I noticed that the freezer only gets down to about 20 degrees, so there may be more to this problem
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I am having problems with my Norcold. it does not get cold enough and I was told by an RV repairman that I need a new cooling unit which costs $1,500. I told him I understood the Amish units are much less in cost. He said they are "junk" That is contrary to what I have observed on several forums. I see Keith replaced his unit with an Amish unit and am wondering what his experience is with the unit?
Bill Stireman
'04 Monterey Laguna
C-9 400 HP Cat
wintering in the beautiful Florida Keys
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Bill:
The Tech that diagnosed mine as needing a new CU told me he had replaced dozens of cooling units, many with Amish, the rest with Norcold. His experience with them was very positive. He praised their beefier build and much better service record. The only thing they didn't have that Norcold did better, was the warranty, two years v three. I figured a three year warranty on a crummy unit wasn't any better than a two year on a unit that will likely outlast my ownership of this coach by many trouble free years. The price difference was enough to pay for the Tech to do the installation, so I still spent close to $1500, but I was thousands of miles from home and needed the fridge to work that day, so had it done rather than risk having to stumble through the install myself. After I saw how easy it was, I realized I could easily have saved that last $600.
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Thanks to this forum my "no AC" error code was easy to diagnose, although lifting that black box cover on the rear of the fridge yielded a few choice words of frustration. The 5 amp auto fuse under the black box cover was good, but the Buss glass fuse, 5 amp 250 volt, was black from end to end. I replaced it and the fridge is as good as new again. Thanks guys...
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We replaced our cooling unit last year with a "Amish" cooling unit from http://rvcoolingunit.com/ Right now their price for a cooling unit for a Norcold 1200LRIM is $1045. I installed the cooling unit myself with the help of an experienced friend. There is a youtube video which shows how to do the install. i just replaced the circuit board on my unit so essentially I have a new refrigerator. Cooling to 34 degrees with a setting of 5. :)
Bill Stireman
'04 Beaver Monterey Laguna
400HP Cat