BAC Forum
General Boards => Technical Support => Topic started by: Edward Buker on January 06, 2014, 10:34:41 PM
-
I have a spot on my ignition switch that is not conducting, so if I start and release the switch back to the ignition on position it will sometimes shut down and it has been getting worse with age. Like us.... things seldom get better with age. We are back home and it is time for a repair.
I did a search for 'ignition switch" and could not find the PN listed anywhere on our BAC site. I think there is a broad number of coach models that use this version of a GM ignition switch that dates back to the 60s. This note is to document some PNs for references: Delco D1406A, Standard US84, Borg Warner CS81. I consider all of these sources to be high quality suppliers.
The key cylinder is a separate component, so if you are having trouble with that part of the assembly you will need to use other PNs. Lock Cylinder: Standard US24 for example.
The key assembly has to be released with a paper clip, while in a certain position, before the assembly can be removed and replaced. It is not exactly Fort Knox security but if you did not know how to release the key cylinder then there is an interlock that would not let you remove and replace the switch assembly.
There is a good write up, photos, and a linked video of the procedure for the replacement from a Foretravel owner at this website.
http://beamalarm.com/Documents/replacing_foretravel_ignition_switch.html
Hope this helps, Later Ed
-
Hey, thanks for that info, Ed.
I remember the ignition and the internally fused headlight switch on our 1984 Pace Arrow (GM drivetrain) were both problematic. The ignition was always loosey-goosey, as is the one in our Monterey that gave me fits in 110 degree Nebraska heat summer before last; it educated me that super warm ambient heat (& ridiculous humidity) can mess up standard wiring/connections, not just electronics. Jiggling the key or underdash wires often resolved starting problems then, but I never have problems with Monty's ignition in more normal temperatures. Heck, even the front TV would go on by itself, and would only stay off if I tripped its breaker in the powder room. Ken and the guys at BCS were even scratching their heads on that one. Just too much heat buildup in the east-facing front cap methinks - the TV's internal switch plastics and metal contacts couldn't handle it. But it all had me believing in poltergeists.
Hopefully they've improved the build quality of the old standard headlight and ignition switches over the years and/or they aren't made in China nowdays. I used to just go to a wrecking yard and save by pulling replacements myself. They worked fine, except the headlamp switch would melt down when I tried getting more high beam using them new fangled halogens back in the early 90's. I should have used relays and rewired with heavier guage, but was more ignorant back then than I am now (if that's possible) about circuitry.
Appreciating your post,
Joel
-
Most welcome Joel...
BTW I had a big smile conjuring up images as to why I would need a fire extinguisher next to the bed. I have to say none of them had to do with a real fire in the bedroom. Maybe I was just feeling frisky for a bit and then reality set back in....I am fine now :-)
Later Ed
-
I reckon there are all kinds of ways to set a mattress on fire. Just don't try to put one out with a bottle of blue pills. ;D
Joel