BAC Forum
General Boards => Technical Support => Topic started by: David Fischer on February 27, 2010, 02:27:58 PM
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I have a 1997 Marquis with a c12 Cat engine on a Gillig Chassis. I bought it new and over the years have had several problems with the alternator. The original was rebuilt and then replaced with another and it had to be replace with the one I have now. It has been acting strangely over the past year. When starting up the engine after sitting for a couple of weeks or so, the alternator will not show any voltage for about he first 20 minutes. When that first happened I was luckily just leaving home and was to be going through a town down the road where I could stop and get it looked at. But after about 20 minutes it all of a sudden started up, and everything was ok, except that it read well over 14 volts on the meter and 14 volt on the computer. That read out continued for the remainder of the day. Start up the next morning everything was ok except the high voltage reading is still the same. That problem has continued for quite some time now and discussions with alternator people don't seem to help. They only can say that, it is not normal but have no idea what to do except rebuild it. I did make a jumper cable so if the thing really finally quits, I can run the generator and jump from the house batteries to the engine battery until I get somewhere.
I have been wanting to get a replacement alternator for that day that is sure to come. But I cannot read any numbers on the present one which I believe is a Leece-Nevell. Can anyone that may have a similar alternator get me a number or give me some ideas. Attached is a photo of mine if it of any help.
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I am almost positive that you coach has the same alternator as my 2000 Marquis.
If so, this should be all of the information that you need.
Leece-Neville
Product Specifications Spec Value
Item number A0012825LC
Sales number 2825LC
Series number 2500
Notes FOR BATTERY ISOLATED SYSTEMS. HAS SHORTER POSITIVE STUD THAN 2824LC., ISOLATED GROUND, REMOTE EXCITE
Volt 12
Output 160
Mounting style J-180
Dimensions in INCHES
Rotation BI-DIRECTIONAL
Housing coating RAW
UL Approved No
Mounting bolt size 1/2-13 UNC
Positive stud 5/16-18 UNC
Negative stud 5/16-18 UNC
Rectifier location INTERNAL
Shaft diameter .8743-.8753
Excitation type Ignition Excite
Regulator location Integral
Regulator number R240103726
You will probably find the thread "alternator specs" very informative also. It was started on September 3, 2009. You can just use the search function to search for the words alternator specs for post over 30 days old.
Gerald
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We have a 96 Marquis which is uniquely wired. Our problem is in the solenoid. When this fails, the amp gauge registers very low voltage. In our coach this solenoid connects the chassis and house batteries when the engine is running. You may want to call Bend Service Center and talk to Ken to see if your coach is also uniquely wired. We are going to Bend this summer and have them update our coach to the current standards.
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Could be just the internal regulator. Rather than replace entire alternators on the farm, I used to disassemble them and put in a new regulator. Lots less $, if it can be done with today's units.
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I think I have the same alternator in my 2000 Pariot. Here's a quick field fix/bandaid.
I went to head home last month from Parker, AZ. and got about 100 yards when I realized my volt meter was showing around 12 volts. Knowing this wasn't good, I determined that my alternator was bad. Since it was Sunday, I knew I won't find a replacement. So I went to the auto parts store and bought (2) 24" battery cables and tied the chassis batteries to the coach batteries (just be careful when doing this) I turned my generator on and drove home.
side note: While on the generator, my volt meter was showing 14 volts, then about an hour into the drive, it showed 15 volts (my normal reading) So when I got home, I pulled my "Field Fix" apart, and the alternator was working fine???? Did my brushes get hung up???
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Oh, the mysteries of the magic we call electricity!
Just a note on your original post, David. It would be normal to see 14.3 or 14.4 as a voltage. The difference between the reading, in my case, would be an inaccurate brand new Sears digital meter. There is also room for some voltage drop due to distance of the dash gage from the engine. Direct Current is not a good traveler.
It would be interesting to note if the time lag to startup of output changes when you start out extremely cold versus extremely warm.
You could try testing the two terminals for the smaller wires on the alternator to ground with the ignition switch on and off just to rule out the ignition switch and ignition wiring. One of these terminals is hot at all times and one is only hot when the ignition is on.