BAC Forum
General Boards => Technical Support => Topic started by: Lawrence Tarnoff on December 31, 2015, 09:25:33 PM
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I want to be more planful about the tools I carry in the coach. So what do you folks bring along for 4 to 15 day trips? Tools? Spare parts?
Happy New Year,
Larry
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I have a small toolbox with basic hand tools, a dremel tool, power drill, and etc. For electric I found a nice kit with connectors and such and than a couple of small rolls of 12 ga stranded wire. That's about it. If I need something for a project I just run out and pick it up.
Spare parts, almost nothing because whatever I need I wont have and whatever I have I wont need.
I do have engine oil (never needed), tranny fluid (never needed), and DI water for the batteries (use 1 gallon every six months).
Of course our typical trip is 5 months so probably need a bit more than you will for short trips.
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Larry,
In addition to Dick's list, consider carrying a set of fuel filters, a spare serpentine belt and a gallon of mixed antifreeze (and boiler antifreeze if Hydro hot requires it).
Steve
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Wow you guys, the "basic hand tools" have certainly become more state of the art. I carry vice grips, a multiuse screw driver (multiple bits), a set of boxed end wrenches, wire stripper/cutter, a volt meter, and spares for bulbs, AC socket, batteries, a flash light and of course a road side assistance insurance policy. :)
Mike
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In the small separately lockable bay behind the curbside rear wheels, I have on the top shelf a small but elongated, red metal (Craftsman) toolbox, with a handle on the hinged lid, in which basic mechanics tools are carried and easily accessed and portaged. Alongside it is an emergency road markers kit, large flashlight, various bungee and other strapping cords, and a few plastic leveling pads for under tires when needed.
On the bay floor below, in the back are stacked 2 small Rubbermaid containers with lids in one of which are air system accessories such as hose, the tire nozzle I built, and a ziplock bag of air fittings. The second box has a pair of lightweight nylon coveralls, gloves, a high power searchlight, and other items. I also have a small black tool satchel in there, up front, in which are bulkier things I more often need, such as an all-purpose Stanley saw that's useful for cutting plastic or wood, a small plastic case with 12v. electric repair parts and stripping pliers, etc., a tube of Lexel sealant, a flexible pickup tool, cans of silicone and WD-40 lubricants, and numerous other small items. Under it all is a small tarp that is not only occasionally handy, it helps keep the other things away from any moisture that sometimes seeps or condenses onto that bay's floor pan.
In another bay I have an assortment of ropes and lines. More than once they were handy in tying up the awning to roof devices when it came loose, and once for tying a bale of barley straw topside.
Inside the coach I keep some basic stuff handy for common interior issues. Included are screwdrivers and pliers of course, and a Craftsman lithium cordless drill-driver kit, a good quality multimeter, a wire tracing tool, containers of screws and small bolts and fastener types, and interior spare parts like light bulbs, cabinet/drawer latches, blind anchors, window vent caps, etc. A small, commonly found Black and Decker kit of bits is handy, especially with its square drive sizes for most coach screws.
As an aside, I also have 6 fire extinguishers scattered around, inside and out. I like the small black, finger-triggered ones I got from Mac the Fire Guy because they fit or can be mounted just about anywhere and are multiuse. I have a couple of large capacity ones as well, and a small one in the toad too. In bays, it was easy to screw a strap of Velcro to a sidewall so it would wrap around a small extinguisher and hold it as and where needed.
Joel
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Larry,
The tools that I carry would probably shock you, so I will not mention them except that I carry sockets up to 4 inch and impact wrenches up to 3/4 inch drive. However, the one thing that I think everyone should carry is at least a secondary fuel filter and know how to change it properly. The 15 to 30 micron (sticks and leaves) primary fuel filter rarely becomes restricted enough to strand you, but the 2 micron secondary fuel filter can become restricted enough to strand you beside the road from one tank of lees than perfectly clean fuel.
Gerald
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Gentleman first of all welcome to the new year and start of 2016 Beaver Rallys. The
subject tool box( what to carry ) myself like Gerald and Roy carry lot of tools being
our trade has take us in this direction. In addition to tools I carry a assortment of air
fittings, plastic air line ( the air line can be used for fuel system on the suction side
fuel tank along with air line fittings. Taking along some clear plastic line to be used in
troubleshooting fuel problems. The nice part of everyone having a tool box and misc.
assorted parts, in most cases fellow beaver members can repair problems if at same
Campground. Again many of our problems are minor in nature and someone will come
up with a part to repair. In addition to above I carry my Cat ET computer along with
Cat SIS computer and can provide tech info. on all of our Cat engines. Many rallys
or on the road sometimes we meet. Dave Atherton Retired Cat Mechanic
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Gerald makes a good point about the secondary fuel filter...I think I'll pick up an extra when I have the oil and fuel filters changed next month. Mixed thoughts about the serpentine belt since I change it every three years and it loosing it doesn't cause any short term issues. Need to mull that one over.
I do have a gallon of ELC coolant (never needed) and a gallon of 50/50 premix coolant for the Aquahot and the tow car....also never needed.
Can't forget extra air filters for the basement air.
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Always if anything would be filters and filter wrench. But you never have what you really need. So a good road service for back up would be helpful.
May be we could have something on the board, that shows members that could offer help, when they are close to a Beaver owner that can offer there help and tools if needed. Or even a place to park for the night.
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Dick, if you're changing belts automatically anyway, just keep the last one as your spare. I goofed this fall when Henderson's recommended changing ours, and it dawned on me too late to ask them to save the old one for me.
Bob, the service you refer to is basically already part of your FMCA membership. Keep your January FMC issue onboard where you'll have a ready reference to any such local available assistance.
Joel
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Thanks, folks. This was a good discussion.
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"The 15 to 30 micron (sticks and leaves) primary fuel filter rarely becomes restricted enough to strand you, but the 2 micron secondary fuel filter can become restricted enough to strand you beside the road from one tank of lees than perfectly clean fuel."
This is awesome advice and I have one along with a strap wrench on board. The thing I do not have is a priming procedure for this device. Mine is a Magnum "Blue Streak" chassis 1995 model. Both filters are remotely located just inside the bay door with no priming pump to be found. When you power up the coach, I can hear what sounds like a day pump for fuel running for about 12 seconds. I have not changed the filter yet... who is the authority on how to prime/ purge the fuel system for my exact set up? I got the tools... just need some leadership here.
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Most importantly... Cell phone, credit card and keep the Toad gassed up!
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Ok so I ordered up a new skylight from BCS yesterday and asked about this... The folks in the shop answered questions as best as they could, but without a doubt, there is more knowledge here. They simply said to fill the new filter with clean fuel... I asked about filling with ATF ( a common practice around here) and they never heard of such.... I am going to buy a fresh Cat filter and fill the thing with diesel and see what happens here soon...
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John, are you talking about adding ATF into the fuel system. If the answer is yes, that
practice is not used with today's electronic engines. Before the electronic engines came
into play this was a commond practice with many truckers. I can provide you Tech from
Cat on this thought. Dave Atherton Retired Cat Mechanic
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Dave,
I have gotten away with ATF on two huge Cummins engines and one large Mitsubishi engine both with electronic engine controls... My plan is to follow the BCS guys' instruction using diesel.... It just leaves me kinda insecure... The last Cat I primed was on a large older dozier and there was no prime pump... Operator ran the thing bone dry ....After a day of cussing that beast, I installed a small electric pump and loosened the banjo fittings on fuel rail.... After a few minutes, she quit slobbering bubbles and we managed to get going.... Call it fractured trust I guess... There is no prime pump manual or electric on this beaver... Has two remote mounted filters...Gonna have to bite the bullet and develop a recipe for priming this one...that way I will have a better chance if I need to do it on the roadside...
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John, the Cummins electronic engine and fuel system is different than the Cat electronic
engine in many ways. Getting air from fuel system on the Electronic Cat engine with/out
primer pump has a bleed plug on secondary fuel filter base ( top corner ) all that is needed is loosen
Bleed plug one turn and turn over engine about 15 seconds and tighten bleed screw. This is
correct way to bleed a Cat electronic engine. Point to pass along Cummins engine primary
and secondary fuel filters are ( 10 to 15 micron primary fuel and 10 micron on the secondary
fuel ). Cat fuel system primary fuel 10 micron and the secondary filter is 2 micron which is
a must on a cat engine. Dave Atherton Retired Cat Mechanic
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John, would it be practical to replace the primary filter housing with one that has the built in prime pump?? Racor 700 or the FR series like our newer models??
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John,
Personally, I would not have a coach without a priming pump in the fuel system. A priming pump makes changing the fuel filters so much easier, and it eliminates the problems that can be created by pouring unfiltered fuel into the fuel system. The unfiltered fuel issue is not a problem with the primary filter because any fuel that is poured into it is filtered by the 2 micron secondary filter, but any fuel that you pour into the center hole on the secondary filter will travel into the injection system unfiltered. The fuel that you use to prime the filter may look clean, but it may have enough 10, 15, or20 micron particles in it that you can not see to cause a real problem.
If you are going to keep this coach, I would spend a few dollars and at least install a manual priming pump if there is not one in the system.
Gerald
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Gerald, thank you. Reading in between the lines with John set up,it sounds like
His motorhome is setup with the Racor FR -60 filter system ( he mentioned last on
his post hearing a electric motor noise ) an that could be the motor in housing.
Depending on condition of the Racor setup he may have additional problems, if this is
correct the secondary fuel filter is in the open and has the plate to remove for the hand pump.
The bleed plug is also right in the open on filter base. Dave
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Pictures when I get back to the barn!
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Could it be that this is the original Catipillar filter head without the primer pump?? If so, where is the bleeder screw that allows air to escape?
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John, looking at picture on left that is your secondary fuel filter and by removing plate on fuel filter
base you can install a hand primer pump like Gerald suggested. One thing I do see that you have a 10 micron fuel filter for your secondary fuel filter but would recommend using the Cat 1R- 0751
2 micron fuel filter. ( will prevent lot so cost ahead with your engine. ) Note: the Cat 3126 A, of
which you have has a very tight filter system that calls for the 2 micron filter with your engine
and all Cat Electronic engines made. Dave Atherton Retired Cat Mechanic
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Dave,
OEM Cat 1R- 0751 filters are on order.... can you provide part number for prime pump and gasket?? Also, how much clearance will be needed to extend the plunger?? Last question sir~ If i install this prime pump, where within the fuel system will the air exit as I pump? I have observed a small knob/ valve on others that open to facilitate exhaust of air from the fuel system. Is the primer pump only half of what is needed?
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John, information on Cat 3126 A engine S/N 1WN Remote fuel filter fuel Priming pump.
Fuel priming pump ( hand ) Part number 105-2508, Gasket for fuel priming pump part
number 1P -0436. There should be room but being this is a remote location can be moved
with no problem. Note: with the Hand fuel priming pump the way it works, top Knob has a
lock for pump plunger in the down position turn C.W. untill tight. To prime fuel filter turn top
Knob of plunger C.C.W and pull outward and pump slow in & out ( has two poppet check valves
size of a dime in base of hand prime pump, that works same as a bilge pump on a boat. )
Leave fuel filter a little loose on filter base to let air escape, when fuel comes out tighten fuel filter.
Than push plunger down to bottom ant turn C.W. untill tight. This will prevent any air entering the
fuel system or fuel out plunger. Last thing age of your engine there is no vent plug on fuel
fuel filter base that is why leaving fuel filter a little loose to let air out untill diesel fuel is
present than again tighten. Dave Atherton Retired Cat Mechanic
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Dave, I have never changed my fuel filter myself. I have attached a photo of my setup. I assume I will spin on the new 0751 dry & fresh out of the plastic wrap, leave the filter a little loose, than pump the bulb pump on the primary filter until I have diesel leaking from the secondary fuel filter. There is a small vent screw next to the bulb pump on the primary filter that has always confused me, but based on your above response I will ignore this vent screw and just bleed the air from the loose secondary filter. Am I correct?
Thanks!
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Grant, thanks for pictures, makes things easy to understand. Let get started the filter
to your left is your primary fuel filter with hand push primer pump on top of fuel filter.
The Cat fuel filter on the right is your secondary fuel filter ( this is very important that
you buy a Cat 1R-0751 2 micron fuel filter and replace with the same Cat fuel filter ).
remove your secondary fuel filter wipe filter base off dirt on sealing surface, install new
secondary fuel filter and leave a little loose before filter base. ( leaving little loose will
let air escape when pumping fuel to fill filter. ) Go back to the left primary fuel filter,
this is your call on replacement or drain water from bottom of primary filter. Looking
at install date I would suggest replacing both primary and secondary fuel filters. After
pumping primary fuel filter with fill with hand pump on top of left filter than keep pumping
and the secondary fuel filter will fill and let air out being filter is loose. When fuel is present
tighten up secondary fuel filter, wipe off fuel on filter you are ready to go. The reason for
leaving secondary fuel loose and letting air escape, if not you are pushing fuel through the
fuel rail on head than the fuel regulator on rear of head before return excess fuel to fuel
tank in front. Dave Atherton Retired Cat Mechanic
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Gentleman, I have mentioned this before about aftermarket install of parts. Taking a close look at Grants pictures of fuel system, primary fuel on left and secondary filter on the right. Looking
close at fuel lines and fittings connecting fuel lines. What we have is use of hydraulic hose with
crimp JIC hydraulic fittings. Where the problem is located, the rubber center of the hydraulic is
starting to break down with age and the diesel fuels being used today. I have several pieces of hydraulic hose from motorhomes that have failed that I will pass around at my Diesel Seminars.
I do have a answer to the above problem that MH owners can repair and correct at home with
little outlay of money. The problem mainly located in the Cat 3126 A, B , E engines and units
With the Racor filter system with electric motor in housing. I would suggest looking real close
at this problem ( break down of inside of rubber center of fuel hose ) If in question I would change your fuel filters, and carry spare filters on board. We need to understand some of our motorhomes
have never changed a fuel line and some 20 years + old and life end has been reached in some
non-cat standards. Dave Atherton Retired Cat Mechanic
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primer pump on order.... so what about the hydraulic hose that is "Downstream" of the primary filter?? replace?
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John we have a fuel supply line from fuel tank to primary fuel filter, than supply
line from primary fuel filter to fuel transfer pump. Where problem has surfaced
fuel supply line has a rubber center that is starting to separate and sending rubber
debris into fuel system ( in its day the use of hydraulic hose and fittings was the norm
for builder of motorhomes ). Now after 15 to 20 plus years have passed use of hydraulic
hose for fuel system, has out lived its life. MFG. have replaced hydraulic hose with
plastic hose for non pressure fuel lines ( suction fuel line from fuel tank to transfer pump )
Dave Atherton Retired Cat Mechanic
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Dave,
This seems like a serious vulnerability...To be clear... is this problem "Downstream" of the "Secondary" or Final filter? Or will the "Primary" or "First" filter and the "Secondary" or "Final" filter catch this debris before it is sent to the engine for use?? Another way to ask the question is do we have this failing hose lining >>after<< the fuel filters ???
fuel injectors clogged with rubber or plastic material that has been shed from the inside of a fuel line that is after the fuel filtration process is equivalent to a blood clot to the brain.
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John at this point yes you have a problem before the secondary 2 micron fuel filter.
The problem will stop at the secondary filter being you have a 2 micron installed.
The main concern first not to alarm everyone ( sky is not falling ) replacement first
fuel line that exit the primary fuel filter and connects to fuel transfer pump suction
inlet. At time builder installed the hydraulic hose from fuel tank to transfer pump
suction inlet and seems so far stopped at this point and the cat system taken over
Fuel lines. Dave Atherton retired Cat mechanic
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I am going to proceed as Planned. Install manual primer pump and change "Secondary" or "Final" filter to a 2 micron filter plus a post mortem inspection of the old filter for macroscopic particles of old hydraulic fuel hose.
Got to get the new skylight installed first.... shower is getting water from wrong place.... :-\
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John
Not to get too far from the original thread. If you replace that skylight yourself, consider a dremmel or similar oscillating tool. It turns hours of cussing into minutes of pleasent work. Use only the straight edge blade!
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Keith,
I used hot air from heat gun, MEK, Acetone, and scotch brite as a final burnish... Still took all day- 20 years of dicor and other gunk reseals....