BAC Forum
General Boards => Technical Support => Topic started by: Jerry Sanders on August 01, 2016, 10:42:26 PM
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Today we started to load the coach and I noticed a wet spot under the radiator. We have a slow seep from one of the tubes at the top of the radiator.....really bad news. I have talked to Jim at Source Engineering and he can't find a match to replace our 16 year old unit. He needs an RS number to determine a correct match. Ken at BCS is unable to provide that information due to corrupted files...more bad news. I have looked all over the radiator and guess what? No RS number. Without a replacement we will have to either repair or recore the old unit but a new unit would be better. Can any of you experts point me in a direction for a fix? The wet spot has to go before our trip to the rally at Seven Feathers.
Jerry
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Jerry
Your coach may be different, but I have found the RS number for the radiator in two locations. First, look behind the doors in the bathroom area (possibly in the bedroom). There should be a sticker with information on the various components of the coach...including the RS number for the radiator. See attached picture.
The other place I found that number is on the top right edge of the radiator. You have to crawl under the coach and look up from beneath the radiator.
Hope this helps...good luck.
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Rod,
Thank you for your reply but our coach was built before Monaco took over. The build sheet lists most of the equipment but not the radiator. I have scoured the radiator top, bottom and both ends without success. I'm still hoping someone will come through with the magic number.
Jerry
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Jerry, you stated some reluctance to a re-core, or repair, can you explain why? I have had quite a number of radiators re-cored and they have been fine.
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Jerry, I think I have or had the same situation on mine. Leaking from somewhere on the top that I could and cannot not see unless I take all apart.
I added Liquid Copper by Bars Leak. They say it is a permanent cooling system fix. May or may not be permanent but I just did it as I do not have time for this this year. I know what a job it is as we had to change out the radiator on our 1991 Contessa.
Added the leak stop just before going 40 miles to a campground and the leak is no more. 500 mile trip two weeks ago and still no more leak.
Have driven it approx 600 miles and no leaks.
One 18oz bopttle treats up to 6 gallons and so I added 1.5 bottles. Bought it at Wal Mart.
May not be the best or final solution but it worked for now and if it is still ok after this years 8000 miles I will not do anything more, I think.
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Dale and Doug, thank you both for your input.
Dale, a new radiator would be my first choice mostly for a quick repair. A re-core would be OK but would also require the coach to be in the shop for several additional days while the radiator people work on the old unit which also ties up the place that does the removal and replacement.
Doug, I'm encouraged by your experience with the liquid copper treatment fixing your leak. I'll try that as a temporary solution to get through our trip to the rally. Later this year I'll schedule a re-core as a permanent fix. A new core for a 16 year old radiator will make me feel more confident going down the road.
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I certainly agree that new is better than any quick fix if you are going to keep coach.
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Jerry,
The brass radiator in your coach will recore to provide you with a radiator as good as a new one. You can probably even have the radiator repaired if it has not been run on salted winter roads. The problem with recoring or repairing a Beaver radiator pertains to Monaco built coaches that use aluminum radiators. Those radiators have to be replaced.
Gerald
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Jerry
My experience with stop leak filler products is all negative. It may stop the leak temporarily but can cause hot spots in the motor it self. Just my two cents.
We live in Port Angeles wa. There is a shop here that builds big radiators like ours. If you are interested they can repair or rebuild and he indicated numbers in the 2 K range or less if tanks can be reused. That is what I remember from a conversation last spring.
If you are interested I can get that info for you.
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Keith, If you will give me the shop information, we may drive up after the rally to have them service the radiator. We were given a $5K estimate for the work and your numbers are much more attractive.
Gerald, the radiator exterior looks clear and no corrosion so the brass must be holding up well. The seep appears to be where a top tube is soldered to the end cap. Probably a minor crack but will have to come out to be repaired.
Thank you both for your insight.
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Here it is Jerry.
Evergreen Radiator Service
360-452-1336
216 N. Gales St.
Port Angeles, Wa.
Dave (I think) is a semi retired radiator guy and veteran.
We have had him work on our cars and both coaches. I bring the ELC and $50. And he flushes the entire system, recycles the old and installs the new. First thing with a new vehicle is have him check the radiator. Not one problem.
FYI he builds radiators for commercial trucks and the marine industries. He indicated that he could ship if necessary.
The only problem is he wants very specific measurements which someone would talk to him about.
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Thanks Keith, I'll give him a call after the rally.
Jerry