BAC Forum
General Boards => Technical Support => Topic started by: Lyle Johnson on January 29, 2017, 11:35:37 PM
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It looks as if I have a delamination issue on the outside wall, left side, just aft of the front slide on my coach. I have been reading several forum issues regarding leaks and think this may be cursed by water. As I stand by the problem outside it is about half way up the side of the coach. This is a 2000 Marquis...two slide. Maybe I could get some feedback on this problem. Need to head south in about a month and would like to tackle the "bulge" before hand. Thank you in advance for any and all responses from a great forum.
Lyle
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Lyle,
I'm not aware of any way to"fix" the delamination in the wall as it is probably the fiberglas coming loose from the backing material (styrofoam and w/wood backing). If other members have a solution hopefully they will comment. Your assessment that a leak is the cause is probably accurate. Delam in RV walls is almost always an indication of leaks. If your Jasper layout is similar to a Tourmoline, there are no windows in this section of the wall. The leak is probably originating either at the shower skylight or, more probable at the roof to wall junction. Check the condition of the dicor sealant used to seal the skylight to the roof. I would start on the roof/wall junction by removing the vinyl strip that covers the screws at the wall to roof junction. If any are rusted, water is getting in behind the vinyl. I'd replace the screws and add touch of lexel as a sealant when reinstalling them. Also check to see if the all the screws are snug. I would replace the vinyl strip. You can either re-rivet the ends or use SS screws in place of the rivets at the ends of the strip. If your layout has a window in that section of wall and the delam is beside/below it, I would check it first. Remove any curtain surrounds. Then remove the screws holding the window in place. The window will push out but it may be tough as there is (should be) a caulk/putty gasket between the window and the outer skin of the coach. This window gasket material is available at many RV service shops. If the leak is at the window you will probably see darkened wood in the frame area once the window is removed.
Good Luck, Steve
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Thanks for that info but I probably needed to give you better info...
The skin on the outside of the coach is where the problem is...maybe you were referring about the inside? It is fine...maybe I can place up a pic tomorrow...thanks,
Lyle
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I have the same type of issue with my driver side wall on my living room slideout. This is on my 2001 Contessa.
I have removed the top riveted channel across the top of my slide by drilling out all the rivets. Then I removed the edge and sealed along the length of the slideout. At least I know that it won't leak from there for a while.
But the fiberglass one piece wall has pulled loose in a 2' by 4' area.
The only way I see to repair this is to remove the windows and remove the whole wall panel, repair the whole wall area, and figure a way to reattach the wall again.
It would be very time consuming and expensive I am sure.
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Lyle
Pictures would certainly help if possible.
In absence anything is a guess but many on this forum are very good at it. I have some experience on previous coaches. This is what BCS did for us on our 02 Marquis.
At the factory the gutters are mounted to the coach leaving just the last six feet on each corner loose. This was so the end caps could be installed front and back. Idealy the remainder of each end would have the paper off the double stick tape behind the gutter which acts as a seal where the wall meets the top. Once stuck down the gutter is then screwed or riveted in place thus putting tension on the seal. The screw heads are then covered with a vinal strip. What often happened is the paper was not removed off the double sided tape and so there was no seal. Once some time passed it loosened a bit and allowed leaking at this seam.
We had them pull all four corners and re attach and seal under and over the gutters. We also had them pull the Girrard awning and seal behind it because that is poorly designed.
We had also used a oscillating tool to remove all sealant on the roof and lay new double seal on all seams and around the skylight, vents and plumbing.
I have heard of new glue being injected behind a delam wall but I would call BCS before trying it. A suggestion might be a 'T' brace out of 2x4 covered in cloth to avoid scratches. Spray glue through a window frame or small drilled hole and apply a couple braces to apply pressure until glue sets.
Let us know what you decide to do and all the best!
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I had this problem with my 99 Pat Thunder and the affected fiberglass all had to be replaced and repainted. This was done at/by BCS. My understanding is that it was due to some bad glue used during manufacturing.
There apparently were several/many coaches that this affected in this era.
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Thanks for all the info...have not been able yet to downsize iPad photos yet but will be working on this problem.
Lyle
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Here goes the pics...hope this works....thanks for your patience.
Lyle
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Lyle,
If it is the leading edge of the wall after the slide, the attaching screws have rusted through along the edge, allowing the wind to pull out the outside skin as you drive. Removing the trim that covers the leading will expose the problem. My 2000 did the same thing about 2 years ago, and since I am no body man and I know it, I took the coach to RV Renovators in Mesa who repaired it for $700.
Gerald
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Ok...thank you all...
Went over to BCS and got some pointers from the body shop.
I am going to tackle this myself on Wednesday with some help. $700 @ Mesa seems like a great deal
but I am looking forward to the "adventure". I will let you know how this turns out. Also replacing interior "little round lights" with led's....Beaver has them on sale at the parts counter. Also tackling the roof...lots to do. Short time to get there.
Great forum and thanks again for all the responses...each one gave me thought.
Lyle
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Oh, I forgot....Gerald, did they place rivets back in the trim or screws...and the wife asked if she has to touch them up with paint? That should do it...maybe.
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Lyle,
Yes, the leading edge trim was reattached with pop-rivets, and they touched-up the rivet heads, all four colors. They got near enough to the correct color that you can not notice the rivets.
Gerald
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Gerald,
Thanks for the reply...seems insignificant but it all helps...I got the trim off yesterday.
Looks good inside the panel. Leading edge was not attached well. Considering larger rivets when
Reinstalling.
Lyle
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Lyle,
While using rivets, if you can have the corner trim and any delam region tight and in place from some external pressure, (2x4 with a heavy sock over the end and someone pushing on it or the 2x4 against a structure and wedged) you will likely get a tighter trouble free result. Rivets will pull the materials some but the range and repeatability can be troublesome.
Good luck with your project, a couple of photos of the steps along the way would be nice for those owners who have not had to face this issue yet.
Later Ed
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Ed,
After the great game yesterday I am waiting on the rivets to come today.
I have a brace set up for a wedge inside the Rv shop. My other structural wall is just over five feet from the coach...using 2x6 construction with pads. My trim was difficult to get off and is in average
Condition after removal but will try to save it. The looks are not as important to me as the result.
So far I have found some problems with the original construction. My opinion is the rivets were too small to start with. Second, they were not at all long enough. Maybe the larger rivets are too ugly maybe...that would make sense but the length was not sufficient.
Also I have purchased some spray glue but I am unsure about the right stuff to use on the butt end attaching to the aluminum frame. Any ideas would help with that.
Thanks again,
Lyle
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Lyle,
I cannot envision what has to attach to what at the butt ends. For the most part I used Lexol at times, a little hard to work with but it is clear and stays in place. I tape where I want an edge and pull it wet. I also like the clay like material that comes in rolls with paper inbetween layers. It is used for bedding the flanges of water heaters for example. Camping World among others has this. It does have some thickness to it and tends to squeeze out over time with pressure. When it does you can use a plastic knife or a credit card to make a cut along the edge and pull the excess away. The Lexol would make that a more permanent attachment point and the clay like material could probably be made to release the part if needed. I do not know if these options fit your project but may be worth some consideration.
That was a great game, I never saw the Pat's get dominated like that in a first half and also never saw such a miracle comeback by any pro football team. One for the record books...
Later Ed