BAC Forum
General Boards => Technical Support => Topic started by: Bob Bulot on February 26, 2017, 08:27:46 PM
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I just installed a Blue Ox flat tow system to tow a 2016 Ford C-Max Energi with our Beaver. I am using the Blue Ox blue coiled electric cord (7 pin plug on the coach, 6 pin plug on the car end). I have run a 12v line through this cord from the coach to a positive connectiion on the car.
Everything works as it's supposed to (i.e., the lights, turn signals, etc. and the 12v line is providing a positive charge to the car).
Problem: When I connect the car to the coach, the coach's backup lights come on and the back up alarm starts to beep.
(Problem 2: I know a lot about electricity, but I don't understand all I know ;D).
Any ideas?
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I use the exact same setup as you. The issue I had for a while was I didn't have a real good ground.
It caused some of the lights to malfunction at times.
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Bob,
Do the symptoms occur when the 12V line is removed?
Steve
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Bob, on my Marquis, the white wire on coach was wired to be for back up lights instead of ground. I had same problem as you but I can't remember if it happened in neutral, drive or reverse. Check to see if white wire from coach is hot while transmission is in reverse. If it is, it is not a ground and what I did was cut white wire and wrapped hot end and connected other side from tow vehicle to ground. Hope this helps. Make sure park brake holds coach while you are checking wire in back and block wheels so coach won't roll. Hope this helps, Frank.
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No, Steve. As soon as you unplug the cord from the car, the backup lights go out and the alarm stops.
My white wire is a ground - I've double checked. All the lights do what they are supposed to, and I can see the hot wire charging the car ( voltage increases slightly when connected). Weird!
Thinking maybe it's as simple as a stray wire filament touching another wire inside one of the plugs (the 12v black wire is 12 ga. and doesn't fit into the plug hole very well).
Thanks to all. More to follow.
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Bob,
You are on the right track. For the symptoms you describe, 12v is being supplied to the lights and alarm from the toad side of the connection. Have you disconnected the RV side and checked for correct voltage levels at the RV end of the cable? You should see voltage on the brake or taillight pins if the problem is coming from the toad.
Steve
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Bob,
Take a 12 volt test light and make sure what all 7 pins of the coach plug do. It sounds like you are feeding 12 volt back to the coaches backup light/ alarm circuit.
I can't remember for sure but I seem to remember that the 7 way plug is not wired per the usual color code.
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I found that some of the wires even after stripping the insulation off were still too fat to fit in the hole of the connector and tighten down. I had to easily remove some of the strands carefully so none would bend and touch another connection point. Maybe that simple of an issue too!
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FWIW, I used the Blue Ox coiled cable for years and had multiple ongoing problems with connections on both ends of cable. In 2015 I switched to this cable and no more problems. I surmise the coil puts tension on the connections regardless of how tight one had the strain reliefs tightened. https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=7+Way+Rv+Blade+Molded+Plug+Trailer+Wire+8%27+Feet+Replacement+Cable+Cord+Harness+with+Premium+Double+Prong+Connector+End+
Steve
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I had other strange problems that ended up being loose connections on the Blue OX cable. After a more than a few hours I discovered The screws in each pin for each wire were not tight causing intermittent connections. Not I think the best design for a cable!
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I too had problems with connections from the coach to my 13 Explorer, primarily being insufficient or lack of power to the explorer in order to keep the battery charged.
So I did a few things. First I eliminated the blue ox cable - too small wires for the requirements - and replaced it with a heavy cable with more robust gauge wires:
http://www.rvproplug.com/?m=4&s=147
This works well and although there still some tension when hooked up, I haven't had a problem yet with it coming undone. Doing it again I'd probably get a cable like Steve mentions - cheaper and no coils, I.e.tension.
This meant changing the 6 pin plug on the Explorer to a 7 pin. Also I ran a 10 gauge wire from this 7 pin receiver to the battery (with isolator - used toad charge but any isolators should/will work.
http://www.lslproducts.net/ToadChargePage.html
On the Coach I ran a 10 gauge wire from the house batteries to the 7 pin receiver. Thinking here is the house batteries will be charged while driving (after chassis batteries) and then when plugged in overnight there will be a charge to the explorer batteries. Isolator here as well.
After doing this I haven't had a dead battery or any problems with lights. I use Air Force One for brakes.
Jeff
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Consider a diode at the battery for the positive from the coach. It acts like a one way valve by not allowing car battery feeding back to the coach.
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Jim,
I may be using the wrong term; the "Toad Charge device" on the explorer doesn't allow it to back feed into the coach.
And I have a diode or isolator on the coach so it only allows power into the explorer and not back into the coach.
Jeff
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I thought maybe but wanted to make sure for me. And I agree with others if no problem without the cord connected it's the cord at either end of it.
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I was having problem with a dead battery, every time we towed our 2014 CRV Honda. I installed the Toad Charge system, and haven't had any issue since. It was easy to installed, and comes complete with all wiring, zip ties, etc.
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I was having problem with a dead battery, every time we towed our 2014 CRV Honda. I installed the Toad Charge system, and haven't had any issue since. It was easy to installed, and comes complete with all wiring, zip ties, etc.
John, I installed a by pass switch on my CRV that shuts off all the nav units, no battery problems.