BAC Forum

General Boards => Technical Support => Topic started by: Kevin Patchen on July 25, 2018, 03:28:00 PM

Title: Air Conditioner
Post by: Kevin Patchen on July 25, 2018, 03:28:00 PM
2008 Beaver Patriot Thunder . This coach has three air-conditioners and the rear air conditioner works on occasion but not all the time. When it is really hot it won’t function just blow air. When it starts to cool off then the air conditioner start to work then cycles but it also shuts off after a short period.  Fan is running  Does this mean that it’s time to replace or is it Repairable. 
 I am currently in Penelton Oregon headed to Las Vegas, via  twin Falls then south down 93.  where would be a good place to have it looked at? Any ideas?
Title: Re: Air Conditioner
Post by: Mike Shumack on July 25, 2018, 03:51:34 PM
I would go up on the roof and remove the cover. See if the condenser fins (#27) are clogged up - and if everything looks "normal". At least it's an easy place to start.

I have a troubleshooting manual for Dometic, but it's too large to attach here.PM me if you want me to e-mail you a copy.
Title: Re: Air Conditioner
Post by: Steve Huber on July 25, 2018, 03:55:41 PM
Kevin,
Sounds like the unit is going bad, and they are generally not repairable. From what you said, I don't think the thermostat would be causing the problems. I'd also check the filter in the bedroom intake and go on the roof, as Mike recommended, remove the cover and make sure the fins are clean, etc.
You may want to check  http://rvservicereviews.com/Index.asp   for a shop on your route. Most of the good shops in OR are in the Bend area or closer to the coast.
Steve
Title: Re: Air Conditioner
Post by: Gary Merrifield on July 25, 2018, 06:36:59 PM
Try to get it fixed before you get to Las Vegas. I am stuck here with no Air conditioning and still waiting on the repair guy to get the right part. It is suppose to be 113 - 115 degrees here today. Finally got a motel room for the last two nights
Title: Re: Air Conditioner
Post by: Joel Ashley on July 25, 2018, 09:53:41 PM
As Mike suggests, it could be the unit overheats in the hotter weather due to a “fin” heat exchanger complex that is too dirty to adequately flow air.  Spray down the fins with Extreme Simple Green for Motorsports (NOT regular Simple Green!), let it soak out of direct sun and keep moist with mist, then rinse preferably and mostly from the inside out.  Repeat if necessary.  Straighten any damaged “fins”.

Beware wasps up there when removing the shroud.  They often build humongous mud nests in roof airs, and that could be restricting air flow or befouling a component.  The roof is nowhere to be trying to outrun angry critters.  Be cautious.  Be prepared.

Joel
Title: Re: Air Conditioner
Post by: Keith Moffett Co-Admin on July 26, 2018, 10:21:44 AM
Kevin
you might head west just a bit and drop down to Bend.  After seeing BCS you could go east again on hwy 20 into Idaho and south.
Title: Re: Air Conditioner
Post by: Joel Ashley on July 26, 2018, 09:31:23 PM
BCS would be okay, certainly, Keith.  But they may not fit Kevin in on short notice.  This time of year their schedule is booked months in advance.  He could call Bend RV Repair across the street, but I’ll wager their popularity has them busy also.

I hate to offer up such a suggestion, but a Camping World somewhere near his route may be more likely to attend his needs with any timeliness.  That may restrict him to the one in Meridian, ID.  https://rv.campingworld.com/dealer/boise-idaho-meridian?scpc=moz&utm_source=moz&utm_campaign=directory&utm_medium=organic

Joel
Title: Re: Air Conditioner
Post by: Joe DeWeese on July 26, 2018, 11:54:28 PM
Does anyone know of a reputable supplier of replacement parts for my Dometic roof a/c?  I need a new shroud for my Duo Therm 630516.331.  Old one blew off during a microburst and is lost somewhere. 
Thanks,
Joe D.
Title: Re: Air Conditioner
Post by: David T. Richelderfer on July 27, 2018, 12:14:20 AM
Amazon has a/c shrouds.
Title: Re: Air Conditioner
Post by: Kevin Patchen on July 29, 2018, 01:28:13 AM
Well I’m here in Vegas and it 115 degrees OMG. When we rolled into town my rv temp said 126 Deg. my sensor is about 18” off the road. The tile floors in my coach were even hot. Running the generator and all three Ac units. Well maybe One unit was really putting cool air. One had trip the circuit breaker the other was just blown hot air, frozen up!!/over heated.

Well I’m babysitting my ac units they  were all running this morning.  About 2:00 General Quality RV repair showed up and basically said there wasn’t much hope.  The AC units are all on there last leg. (There all 10 yrs old) Two out of three are drawing 18.5 to 19 amps.  And they should be around 12 amps max except at start up.  I’m sure the hot weather doesn’t help.  So I’m biting the bullet and replacing all three. New Domestic Penguin AC unit 15000 BTU model 651816 they also requiring  conversion kits 3313107.107, AC units are 1495 ea conversation kit 120.00 ea. Install and freight 5509.00 ouch  :'(. Going to CA next week gota have AC that works.
I’ll tell you how it all turns out on Tuesday when they install them.
Title: Re: Air Conditioner
Post by: Keith Moffett Co-Admin on July 29, 2018, 03:18:33 AM
Thanks Kevin.  We are very interested in knowing the end result since we have three that are a year older.  Don't yours have the heat pumps as well?
Title: Re: Air Conditioner
Post by: Keith Moffett Co-Admin on July 29, 2018, 03:41:21 AM
Oops, I just looked up the model number you posted and see that they have the heat pump.  Very nice!
Title: Re: Air Conditioner
Post by: George Harwell on July 29, 2018, 03:49:10 PM
Kevin, I know the last thing you want to do in Vegas is run your heaters but here’s why. When the air conditioner is replaced the dip switches inside the unit have to be set properly for the thermostat to control the furnace also. I have seen several units replaced that left the furnace inoperative. So I suggest you do a thorough test of the new units before releasing the technician. Cool the coach to around 80 degrees ,make sure the Aqua Hot is ready then switch from air conditioning to heater, run the temperature up to 90 and insure the furnace operates properly at all zones. Don’t forget to test the heat pump operation also. Good luck with your venture.
Title: Re: Air Conditioner
Post by: Kevin Patchen on July 29, 2018, 04:24:48 PM
 Thank you for your comments...
I will check all the heating systems (aqua hot and heat pumps) Thanks again.
These are heat pump units that will be installed.
Title: Re: Air Conditioner
Post by: Fred Brooks on July 29, 2018, 04:39:20 PM
  Greetings Kevin,
   George brings up a great point, younger technicians sometimes fail to consider that dip switch setting on the primary air conditioner.
   Here are some other considerations when dealing with roof air conditioners in extremely hot weather. Older units draw about 13 amps of current at 80 degrees outside. Every 10 degrees above 80 draws an additional 1.5 amps of current. When you get past 116 degrees you're dancing on the edge. Factor in dirty condensers and worn compressors and most older air conditioners will trip a 20amp circuit breaker.

   When Cindy and I were living in our coach last summer in Tucson, AZ while our house was being built, I hooked up a misting system in front of my basement air conditioner condenser inlet and got the inside temperature down to 78 degrees when it was 112 degrees outside. The down side is it is kind of messy.

  hope this helps, Fred
Title: Re: Air Conditioner
Post by: Keith Moffett Co-Admin on July 29, 2018, 10:58:46 PM
Now that is a good idea Fred.  Our basement air wasn't worth running in 112 deg in eastern Wa.  Your idea would have helped.
Kevin
Once done and working right.  How about you post an update.  What is your impression over all?  Was it worth the cost?  Etc. 
Also, I believe some coaches drain the condenser to the roof and some have a drain tube which needs to be cleaned and reconnected.  You might mention it to the tech.  Wouldn't due to have it drain inside the roof.
Title: Re: Air Conditioner
Post by: Kevin Patchen on July 30, 2018, 02:56:16 AM
 This dip switch on the main air conditioner which is considered to be the main air-conditioner the center front or rear?  Is it physical adjustment? 
Title: Re: Air Conditioner
Post by: Fred Brooks on July 30, 2018, 01:55:20 PM
Hi Kevin,
  I am pretty sure by 2006 Monaco was making the forward air conditioner the "primary"  and air #2 & 3 are daisy chained to the primary thru a 6 wire communication wire (looks like a phone line). On air # 2 you select zone 2 on its pc board dip switch location and air # 3 you select zone 3 if you have only ONE thermostat managing all 3 zones.
  Blessings & Joy,  Fred Brooks
Title: Re: Air Conditioner
Post by: Kevin Patchen on July 31, 2018, 12:27:58 AM
Currently my thermostat is set as zone 1 is the front ac unit, zone 2 is the center and, zone 3 is the back (bed room).  So the way I’m getting this is zone 1 is primary. What does that have todo with the dip switch?  Is this just a setting of 1,2,and 3 and making sure they all function in all three conditions (ac, heat pump, and aqua hot) in each location? 
Title: Re: Air Conditioner
Post by: Fred Brooks on July 31, 2018, 01:56:20 PM
Kevin,
 It sounds like your thermostat is configured correctly. What I am talking about is if you have an air conditioner replaced, the technician needs to move the dip switches to the correct location on the PC board inside the air conditioner to match the location of the air conditioner from which it was replaced.
Title: Re: Air Conditioner
Post by: Kevin Patchen on July 31, 2018, 02:55:44 PM
Got it make perfect sense.
Thanks again
Title: Re: Air Conditioner
Post by: Bob Bulot on August 01, 2018, 02:31:01 PM
One of the best indications (besides a sweaty brow) that these unrepairable units are going bad is the amperage they pull.  As the compressors start to fail, they require more and more power to operate.  When I replaced my 11 yr old penguin, it would start at around 18 amps, but would steadily increase to around 25-27 amps before tripping the breaker. 

The new unit starts at around 14 amps and can get to a max 16-18 amp draw after being on a while. 

If you have the old 5 button thermostats, you will need to also need to replace the thermostats.  Note also that there is a market for the 5 button thermostats on eBay to help ease the pain.
Title: Re: Air Conditioner
Post by: Kevin Patchen on August 05, 2018, 02:26:29 PM
Greetings from San Dimas CA
 We had our new air-conditioners installed Last Thursday. I must say they are much more  efficient than our older air-conditioners. (We are cool now)Some of the challenges during the installation are as follows.
Number 1 if you have drains on your current coach install, you will require  an additional seal.  The reason for the additional seal is to allow for a cut out  where the drains pass through the seal and to the interior side of the cut out for the air-conditioner. (Cut out is caulked we’re drain passes through)this is where the drain is located.
Number 2  each of the new air-conditioners required a new computer board,  this is so the five button thermostat existing on my coach would work with the new Air conditioner.   There are detailed instructions included with the computer board but I would suggest you have a good electrician on hand.  The dip switches must also be here adjusted for location upon installation.
Number 3  getting the new air-conditioners on and off of the roof is also a challenge if you don’t have more than a couple of people. We had three people one on the roof one on the ground and extra just for good measure pulling the new AC units on to the roof up a ladder .  The technicians through the old AC units off the roof.  I would suggest not doing this if at all possible. (Makes a mess)
Number 4  make sure you allow for plenty of time to do these installs. From what I understand most removal and replacement of AC units take less than an hour per unit. These because of the ducting and the additional seal and caulking and computer board replacement take a couple hours apiece.

Title: Re: Air Conditioner
Post by: Bob Bulot on August 07, 2018, 02:19:29 AM
Just to clarify, there’s two ways to upgrade older Dometics.  As reported, a special control board can be installed so tha the older 5 button thermostats will work.  At about the same cost, or a little less, upgrading the thermostats to the new models eliminates the need for the new control boards.  The added benefit to me was that the new thermostats are much easier to read and have an inside temp reading. Also, as I mentioned, there is still a good market for the 5 button models on eBay.