BAC Forum
General Boards => Technical Support => Topic started by: Dwight Lakusta on February 21, 2019, 03:52:47 AM
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Does anyone have any pointers where to start with this issue? Is there a roller on the floor that needs to be replaced or adjusted? Part of the coach wall also seems to be pushed in the same distance, where the weather strip sits... i wonder how to get this remedied? It lines up well on the bottom, just the top us going in too far?
Can i Shim up the inside? Then put some thicker weather stripping? Thanks in advance.
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Dwight, do you know which model slide mechanism is being used in that location?
From the photo it looks like that slide is the curbside front slideout. On my coach floorplan that is the living room and kitchen - which, in my case, uses the "HWH X-Slide" mechanism (dual cylinder with synchronizing cylinder). I just finished replacing one of the cylinders on my X-Slide. While it was apart I found that some of the X-Slide arm-to-room attaching screws were loose and two had broken off.
I would start by removing the vertical wood trim and getting a look at the mechanism and mounting points.
The rollers set the room height in the opening (not the room tilt). As your paint lines look like they match up, I do not think your rollers are out of adjustment.
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Hmmmm, interesting, so that mechanisim is inside the wall behind the wood trim? How do i tell if i have that system? Is there anything to look at? What are the different ones... Thanks
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Dwight, should be a simple stop mico-switch adjust under the bed on the slide rail system.
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That is your front slideout room, right?
On my '05 there are two different slideout mechanism used on the big front slideouts room. I have the "X-Slide (a dual cylinder mechanism) on the Curbside room, and a single cylinder under frame type on the front Roadside slide.
The X-slide looks like this (once vertical trim pieces are removed) - one mechanism on each side of the room (inside coach). There is a vertical wood trim piece, and then a white metal piece the wood screws to, then the black thing is the X-Slide (shown fully collapsed).
The under frame single cylinder is the lower picture (the cylinder is in the center, not in view, between the two out guide arms/beams):
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Im pretty sure i have the one from the last picture, I left for work, and will be back again on Friday, i will look and see for sure. But I'm 90 percent i have the one with the gear on both.........Thank you for the pictures, now i know what I'm looking for, Maybe i will be surprised and have the X type!
Im not sure which one is easier to work on, they both seem hard, its must be either a roller on the bottom on the style in the last picture, or a broken X style mounting location.....
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2003 ruby, we have sister coaches. Mine was doing the same thing. You are looking at the passenger (kitchen) front slide in the photo identical, even in painting to mine. The slide is Power gear hydraulic ram ,at least the drivers side is , with I believe 3? geared connected heavy rails on wheeled rollers mounted to the bottom of the slide. they keep the slide in sync as the Hydraulic Ram pushes in or out. I had a couple (wheels) that had worn out and needed replacing. these aren't the large plastic type floor rollers of which there are 4-5 along the floor just behind the seal They are the ones inside the Square tube rails. I see No X ??? system. There is no mechanism in the wall or at the top that I know of .. there is a stop or edge? of the wall that the slide top pushes against as it comes in, that's it. I believe if it gets too far forward it misses the edge of the wall
Elite Rv replaced all my seals and adjusted mine as best as possible but I still have some "tip" of that back corner as it comes in. Not as bad as yours since they adjusted but it was before! I'm not sure what the problem is but mine isnt bad now. The slide tips (falls) in a bit at the end of its run in. Of course this is a heavy end with a cabinet that fills the corner and the Microwave in that corner. I am satisfied that its not dangerous and i'm the only one that notices it .. Check box slide bar wheels there are 4 2 in front and 2 in back .. a couple of mine were flat spotted and not rolling .. in fact the slide was just being drug in. If you find something else I'll be interested as Elite couldn't explain it fully, and their folks worked for Monaco at the time!
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Now we are cooking with peanut oil! Well this is good news that it may be an adjustment of the slide wheels. If it solved your problem I'm sure it will help me the same way!!! I wonder where a guy would source those slide out wheels.... I wonder if they may be hard to find! If adjusting it is what i need to do, i can't wait to get home to try!
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Dwight , Elite had mine made ! to the tune of 40 bucks each! ??? as they said the OEM were inferior. I thinkI went to the Power gear site and found the wheels but of course Power gear is now someone else ... can't remember ( not unusual ) .I'm in 80deg weather in florida and it past happy Hour :) Google Power gear rollers and go from there .. but crawl under there and observe yours .. mine were flat spotted and a couple were obviously not rolling with no smooth look like a wheel has as it rolls.
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2003 ruby, we have sister coaches. Mine was doing the same thing. You are looking at the passenger (kitchen) front slide in the photo identical, even in painting to mine. The slide is Power gear hydraulic ram ,at least the drivers side is , with I believe 3? geared connected heavy rails on wheeled rollers mounted to the bottom of the slide. they keep the slide in sync as the Hydraulic Ram pushes in or out.
I was thinking it was an HWH unit, since the hydraulic cylinder says "HWH" on it. But maybe only the hydraulics is just from HWH since they already had their HWH pump on the coach for the other slides.
However, I still can't find this setup on the Power Gear website. Do you have any info on it (model name or parts diagram)?
This is the only slideout left on my coach that I have not been able to find a parts list or service info for.
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The drivers side has power gear ID stickers on the rails but the pass side I’m not sure about as I haven’t found the obvious “stickers” the geared rail and wheel mechanism is the same so I “assumed” Never good to do I know . I’ll look some more when I get back to the coach. But then again by 05 Monaco had changed many things to the “Monaco” way hadn’t they? My 03 may not be the same as yours. I think our Marquis is basically a smc / Beaver still made in Bend the “old” way. In fact my lower bays come out with the slides ( not pass through) .. your slides are not connected to the slides .. correct? And your not on a M ( magnum) chassis I believe
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The drivers side has power gear ID stickers on the rails but the pass side I’m not sure about as I haven’t found the obvious “stickers” the geared rail and wheel mechanism is the same so I “assumed” Never good to do I know . I’ll look some more when I get back to the coach. But then again by 05 Monaco had changed many things to the “Monaco” way hadn’t they? My 03 may not be the same as yours. I think our Marquis is basically a smc / Beaver still made in Bend the “old” way.
In fact my lower bays come out with the slides ( not pass through) .. your slides are not connected to the slides .. correct? And your not on a “M” ( Magnum ) Chassis I believe.
Everything you said is accurate (you have the SMC/Beaver and I have the Monaco/Beaver) so it is possible that the slideout mechanism will be different.
BTW, my lower storage bays (on the roadside) do come out with the slides.
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Bill,
There are probably some differences in the slides on your coach and the slides on an 05 Thunder, but the flat top slides on your coach are totally a Monaco design. SMC slides had a rain gutter molded into the top of the slide and they did not use slide toppers until after the Monaco purchase. Monaco bought Beaver in the summer of 01, and they did a total redesign on the chassis and slides before the 03 production started when they built the first 3 slide Beaver. One big things that Monaco did in the redesign was to replace the problematic Meritor ADB brakes with the much more durable Bendix air disc brakes. About the only thing that was an SMC design carryover other than the cabinet work was the SMC leveling system that Monaco used on the 03 coaches until they had depleted the surplus inventory that came in the purchase of SMC.
Gerald
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Ok, so i went underneath, had a look, and i have the power gear/lippert slide out system. 3 beams, sprocket gear and rollers for the rail.....Now my question, what do I do? The slide is sagging in, so how do i manipulate that? All the rollers seem to be in OK shape.... Do i buy the rollers and try that? Has anyone else had this issue?
Are there rollers inside on the floor under the cabinets?
I have no flat spots on the rollers at all. All the rollers are orange in color. Thanks in advance.
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It doesn't look like the slide is sagging - the paint lines match up perfectly. So the slide mechanism is not sagging and adjusting the rollers will not fix the problem. IMO
Are there a mechanical arms/locks on each side of the slideout that locks the room in the full In and Out positions?
Our coaches are different models/years, so I'm not sure i can help by describing how my slide works. I know that when my front slide comes in, the bottom stops first then the top still comes in an inch of two before it stops. So there is something physical there at the top that it stops against. As the slide reaches the end of its inward travel a metal latch on each side rotates up and locks against a fixed metal plate on the inside (that is the lock mechanism in the photo).
I'll see if i can get a better look at what is at the top.
Edited for spelling
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I don’t think it has those lock arms at the back. If you look in the pictures. It’s tipping too far into the wall on the top....the paint lines and bottom line up, but it’s tipping too far in. I was thinking about shimming up the cabinets inside with a piece of wood and carpet on the wood, that would slide along the floor tiles.....if I lift the slide from the inside once slid in, it lines up...
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Hi Dwight,
I did recognize the problem of the top tipping in too far. And since the paint lines match up, adjusting the rollers won't help since they are on the front of the slideout.
It may be possible to adjust the beams/arms that support the slideout so they angle upward more at the rear ( i don't know how these support beams are attached at the frame) which would tilt the top of slide outward more. I think this would keep the paint lines aligned when the slide is all the way in and just tilt the top of the slide outwards. But I'm not sure that is the best thing to do right now.
I would not adjust cabinets or such, to compensate for the tilt without fully understanding what is going on.
I think you would only be masking the problem - and the problem may be something serious that you need to figure out (like a cracked weld on a beam/arm causing it to sag).
Have you had a chance to get under the slideout and carefully inspect all of the support beams and where they attach to the frame?
I'm out of ideas - can you call PowerGear/Lippert and ask them what model slideout you have and for some drawings to help troubleshoot?
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I looked at my Slideout room setup, and I see now that the slideout has a lip or edge around it so when the Slide out room is full retracted (all the way in) that edge stops against a solid metal strip that runs around the perimeter. In the case of my 2005 it is not possible for the slide to go in further than flush unless that metal strip has come off. The metal stop strip looks to be screwed to the sides of the coach walls (not sure about the top edge, but I assume it is the same).
I'm not sure if 2003 is built the same way. If it is, then I would expect to find the metal stop strip (attached to the coach wall) has come loose.
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Maybe that metal strip has come loose?..... That would make sense!, I will be back next Wednesday to the coach, and will have to look...
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Hi Dwight,
I did recognize the problem of the top tipping in too far. And since the paint lines match up, adjusting the rollers won't help since they are on the front of the slideout.
It may be possible to adjust the beams/arms that support the slideout so they angle upward more at the rear ( i don't know how these support beams are attached at the frame) which would tilt the top of slide outward more. I think this would keep the paint lines aligned when the slide is all the way in and just tilt the top of the slide outwards. But I'm not sure that is the best thing to do right now.
I would not adjust cabinets or such, to compensate for the tilt without fully understanding what is going on.
I think you would only be masking the problem - and the problem may be something serious that you need to figure out (like a cracked weld on a beam/arm causing it to sag).
Have you had a chance to get under the slideout and carefully inspect all of the support beams and where they attach to the frame?
I'm out of ideas - can you call PowerGear/Lippert and ask them what model slideout you have and for some drawings to help troubleshoot?
I will also carefully inspect everything. I will keep you posted and thank you for your help and time thats for sure!
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Well I finally got some time to look at my coach. I have to get this post back to life , and I need to get on this problem. Had anyone ever had an issue similar? All the rollers are intact. They have no flat spots. Has anyone ever worked on the lippert slide rail systems? I don’t know where to start, and the best part... nobody knows anything in my area. Not a single dealer. Beaver coach sales said they could look at it, but I’m not planning on going that way anytime soon and spending 20K.
I can’t see any adjustment at all on the rails.
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As I originally said My 03 Ruby has the same issue on the kitchen slide Elite looked at it a year or so ago and couldn’t do much. I honestly believe it is pushing past the stop or the stop doesn’t exist anymore. The part that’s the problem is behind the microwave cabinet and I see no way to access the interior wall corner from the inside. The good news is it hasn’t changed much in all that time and a hundred or more opens and closes. I’m going back to elite in a few months and will discuss again but I’m not hopeful. Perhaps a piece of metal added to the inside edge of the slide wall rim to “catch” on the seal edge.
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I see the issue you speak of. I’m wondering how to get in there to put the backing back in. So they couldn’t adjust anything?
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Has anyone ever worked on the lippert slide rail systems?
I can’t see any adjustment at all on the rails.
Are you sure it is a "Lippert" slide system? I though they were all HWH slides for these early years. Do you have the single hydraulic cylinder in the center (between the large outer support arms)?
I looked through the Lippert manuals and could not find anything similar - except for some electric slides.
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I see the issue you speak of. I’m wondering how to get in there to put the backing back in. So they couldn’t adjust anything?
No no access .. short of pulling the slide I guess. I mentioned putting a roller under the cabinet , where it drops but they weren’t onboard with that.
This slide is where it’s supposed to be as far as height and fitting the “hole” but whatever stopped that slide in the past no longer does.
The bottom wiper seal on that slide has worn out finally and is mostly missing so I’m having it replaced next month. A good chance to look at it again. With that wiper seal missing I can at least see all the floor rollers and they are in good shape.
The slide on the drivers side is powergear ( labels on the rails ) but there are no markings on the passenger side
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Dwight,
Why not try adding a spacer(s) on each side to the AL frame about 1/2 to 2/3 of the way up the silde opening to act as stops for the slide top? Mounting them higher would just increase the needed thickness of the spacer. I'd use heavy duty double sided tape as a mounting medium until I knew if it would work.
Steve
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I see the issue you speak of. I’m wondering how to get in there to put the backing back in. So they couldn’t adjust anything?
No no access .. short of pulling the slide I guess. I mentioned putting a roller under the cabinet , where it drops but they weren’t onboard with that.
This slide is where it’s supposed to be as far as height and fitting the “hole” but whatever stopped that slide in the past no longer does.
The bottom wiper seal on that slide has worn out finally and is mostly missing so I’m having it replaced next month. A good chance to look at it again. With that wiper seal missing I can at least see all the floor rollers and they are in good shape.
The slide on the drivers side is powergear ( labels on the rails ) but there are no markings on the passenger side
You are right!!! It is a powergear system!!!!
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Dwight,
Why not try adding a spacer(s) on each side to the AL frame about 1/2 to 2/3 of the way up the silde opening to act as stops for the slide top? Mounting them higher would just increase the needed thickness of the spacer. I'd use heavy duty double sided tape as a mounting medium until I knew if it would work.
Steve
Well Steve. That’s a hell of an idea. I will start with that.
Also William, I was thinking, instead of a roller, maybe a 2 foot wide piece of wood or aluminum wrapped with a carpet that would slide on the tiles? Like a shoe?