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61

Technical Support / Re: Tires valve cores

« Last post by Jerry Emert on December 24, 2025, 10:32:49 PM »

Thanks. I think it’s something simple because that tire,outside dally, was just replaced roadside about a month ago. It leaked once before a couple of weeks ago. I found the extension was loose where it connects to the hub cap. I tightened it up and filled the tire and thought it was fixed.
Thanks again.
Jerry

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Technical Support / Re: Tires valve cores

« Last post by David T. Richelderfer on December 24, 2025, 08:40:10 PM »

Our Marquis has metal (I assume steel) stems bolted into/onto the wheel.  If the inside-the-wheel seal of the stem is corrupted causing the leak from the stem where it's bolted onto the wheel, then a new stem is likely needed.  If the leak is at the valve, then a new valve is likely needed.

If the leak is at the wheel, then I suggest first tightening the nut that holds the stem onto the wheel.  It may simply have loosened up.  If that doesn't fix it, then a trip to a tire shop, or O'Reillys or Autozone, to get a new stem and/or valve is easy.  Someone at the shop or store should know what you need.

The problem is you may have to remove the wheel and tire from the RV to break the bead so that a new stem can be inserted from inside the wheel.  Thereafter, getting the bead to reseal so it can be filled with air could be an issue.  And removing the wheel's stud nuts and replacing them is another issue with which to fight.  I hope it's not a leak on an inside dual tire.  That brings on a whole lot of complications dealing with a stem extension.

Good luck!  I would take mine to a tire shop if one is nearby... assuming you can get enough air in the tire to drive it that far.

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Technical Support / Tires valve cores

« Last post by Jerry Emert on December 24, 2025, 06:52:59 PM »

Are the valve stem cores in these truck tires the same as in an auto?  I’ve got one leaking and a flat. Would rather replace myself instead of call someone. I’ve done car tires but not the higher pressure truck tires. Thanks for your time.
Jerry

64

Technical Support / Re: Fuel Quantity Issue

« Last post by Nicholas Soldevere on December 18, 2025, 03:44:24 PM »

Nicholas
Carl is likely right your fuel gauge sending unit wiring connection at the tank are the most likely cause.

If you go to the coach assist section of the web site by clicking the blue link above then click on the first titled ( "brochures for almost all beaver coaches")
Then click on the menu to the left titled (" safari motor coach corporation 1994 to 2001 ") then in that menu go down the third from the bottom titled (" miscellaneous diagrams and fixes. ")
In that section you will find a memo describing the troubleshooting of the gauge gauge and sending unit.

For a quick check run a jumper wire from the ground buss bar in the electrical bay to the signal wire on the fuel sending unit ( found on the side of the fuel tank just below the frame rail on the driver's side. This should result in the dash gauge reading empty .

Hope this helps
Eric

Got It!! Thankyou! This troubleshooting procedure is perfect. Not a huge fan of pulling the dash panel because its brittle and should be handled with extreme care but I'll do it so I can get to be bottom of this indication problem.

I crawled under the rig yesterday and verified connections to the sender, ground and associated wiring, all of it looked great!!

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Technical Support / Re: Fuel Quantity Issue

« Last post by Eric Maclean Co-Admin on December 18, 2025, 02:05:12 AM »

Nicholas
Carl is likely right your fuel gauge sending unit wiring connection at the tank are the most likely cause.

If you go to the coach assist section of the web site by clicking the blue link above then click on the first titled ( "brochures for almost all beaver coaches")
Then click on the menu to the left titled (" safari motor coach corporation 1994 to 2001 ") then in that menu go down the third from the bottom titled (" miscellaneous diagrams and fixes. ")
In that section you will find a memo describing the troubleshooting of the gauge gauge and sending unit.

For a quick check run a jumper wire from the ground buss bar in the electrical bay to the signal wire on the fuel sending unit ( found on the side of the fuel tank just below the frame rail on the driver's side. This should result in the dash gauge reading empty .

Hope this helps
Eric

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Technical Support / Re: Fuel Quantity Issue

« Last post by Nicholas Soldevere on December 17, 2025, 04:52:40 PM »

Nicholas,

If memory serves me right the sending unit is on the drivers side of the tank a few inches down from the top.  There should be some nuts on studs that stick out of sending unit.  The wires go the the back of the fuel gauge.   If making sure everything is clean and tight on both ends doesn't fix the issue it could be the sending unit itself or the gauge.

Sending units are known to wear out.  I had to replace mine and it shows the tank to be completely full for the first two hundred or so miles.  By the time it drops to 1/2 tank it is fairly accurate. I really don't let it get to far below 1/2 so I don't know the accuracy there.

The gauge is simply reading a voltage level from the sending unit.  The voltage changes as the float arm swings up and down.  You can take a screwdriver and touch both post on the back of your fuel gauge to see if it swings all the way to the full position.
Hopefully this will make sense and help you some.

Thanks Carl, I haven't had a chance to crawl up in there. I had the Beaver in an RV storage lot with just 30A service and its been fine the last 2 years but the place began having issues with electrical service being inconsistent, as a result I kept seeing irregularities with my power system and the Xantrex 3012 SW.

Finally it came to a head and the unit wouldn't charge the house batteries. Everything else seemed to be working fine, just no charging.  I called tech support over at Xantrex, a great service btw. Those guys are a fountain of information and I think they get paid by the minute. I was on the phone with Jeff as we went though numerous tests, setups and resets. Finally we got to the point where the suggestion was to completely power down the rig for and hour. I unplugged it and disconnected the house batteries and let everything sit for an hour, hooked it all back up and plugged it in and viola, power came back up and the nearly dead batteries were charging quite vigorously.

I'm planning on getting it in the driveway and crawling in up next to the tank in the next couple days and will report back my findings.

67

General Discussion / Re: 2009 Beaver Marquis amethyst, cat C 15 engine, 45 feet

« Last post by Frank Bergamo on December 16, 2025, 03:49:05 PM »

You have the Kongsberg Chassis Control Module on your Marquis. I would recommend reading up on this system to better understand how it works. The best info can be found on the Monacoers web site, with a gentleman named Frank McElroy, who is the only guy in the country that has figured out this system. I would be careful who I let work on this system, as you could do more damage than you are fixing. Hope this helps, good luck!

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General Discussion / Re: 2009 Beaver Marquis amethyst, cat C 15 engine, 45 feet

« Last post by David Ciotti on December 16, 2025, 03:33:57 PM »

One wire that would take out both lights is the ground wire.

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General Discussion / Re: 2009 Beaver Marquis amethyst, cat C 15 engine, 45 feet

« Last post by Mike DeFrees on December 16, 2025, 02:45:18 PM »

Thank you so much for all your help. All the light bulbs are in good working condition just can’t figure out how to get the parking lights working On the front of the coach next to the headlights  but as you explained, it sounds like they are daisychained with the other parking lights so therefore it could only be a wire but it’s very strange both that would be out the same time 

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Technical Support / Re: Magnum chassis rear torque arm

« Last post by Eric Maclean Co-Admin on December 12, 2025, 02:07:46 PM »

Brian
While your there you want to check the track bar mountings ( these are where the track bar attaches to the frame rail on the passenger side and to the top of the differential)
You will be looking for any cracks in the frame on the outside of the frame where the four bolts hold the track bar to the frame and again at the top of the differential where the track bar brackets are welded to the differential bango housing.
There have been a few coaches have these cracks appear ,it is usually caused by the torque rod spherical ball ends getting seized and creating a torsional twisting moment on the mountings fatiguing and eventually cracking or breaking the mounts out all together.
It is important to check those as you can understand how dangerous it would be to have the coach rear end shifting while at speed in a corner.

On my coach I found several of the dust boots had disintegrated and on the front end and there where two that where seized or near seized causing an growning noise when the coach moved up and down in its suspension travel .
This is why I ended up removing all the torque rods and cleaning/freeing them up installing new dust boots and grease fittings as shown in the COMMON PROBLEMS article I mentioned earlier.

Eric