Got a break in the weather that coincided with an hour of “spare” time, if there is such a thing. As previously noted, the original float switch was all plastic and the float part broke off at its pivot. Heat My RV (John Carillo) said that was a common failure, and the newer versions are brass. So for those with hydronics of the mid-2000’s era that have never had new float switches, beware.
I tried viewing the lost float in the tank with poor hope of fishing it out, but AquaHot deemed it inconsequential if left there, so the notion was abandoned. Of course I tried at first using the large 1” deep socket to install the new switch, because it “easily” held the wires tucked inside it. It slipped on the bolthead. Aha. Recall I had to go buy a larger and deeper socket (twice) to get the old one out after determining it was not the 7/8” touted in the service instructions. Now weeks later, I totally forgot the new switch had a smaller head! The threaded shaft is the same, but not the bolthead. My spare and dry hour unfortunately occurred near sunset and my flashlight was being cantankerous, so I reckon I was hurrying too fast for my old memory capacity to keep up.
New switch was installed and properly aligned so the float was right side up. I stuffed wires in and inserted the switch head in the 7/8” deep socket. Fred’s suggestion to wrap the wires around a screwdriver so they’d coil up easier in the socket was a helpful idea; I used a pencil. Being that the thing is buried an inch deep into a hole through insulation surrounding the tank, I couldn’t see what side of the bolthead was up, and once the wires were stuffed into the socket I didn’t want to pull the socket off to check. So before starting, I put a black hash mark on the socket so I knew when the switch was screwed in with the float properly positioned in the tank.
I mention this otherwise mundane stuff (to experienced mechanics) for anyone else that might benefit if ever replacing their switch, and running into similar roadblocks along the way. And to that end, I went to replace the burner control box on the side of the burner... roadblock. It slid off easy enough, but Guys, am I correct to insert a flat screwdriver blade along the inside of the bracket to depress the tab? I just wanted to close the unit up to finish later, as dinner called, and thought I’d simply slide the box into place. Not. I tried the small screwdriver I had handy, but struggled to get the spring-tab out of the way so the brackets would align.
When I get around to it again, is there some trick to getting the box started back onto the side of the burner? The edge of the tab catches in a shallow cut in the burner, and has to be depressed to clear it; but its spring steel is darned resistant to that. Maybe when I’m not rushed and have a bigger screwdriver...
Joel