No ignition from key switch. Starts from rear remote. No transmission.

[Mike Gineris]

It certainly helps.  There's no available external power at the moment so I'll go with the disconnect switch.  Thanks very much for the details.  I will research what configuration I have and get this fixed in the long run.  I think I have the echo charger.

[Mike Gineris]

The solar panels do well keeping the house batteries from draining but do you think the battery combiner would work to trickle charge the chassis batteries when the coach is unplugged?

[Eric Maclean]

Yep
If you have the inverter charging the coach batteries the combiner will connect the two banks any time a charge voltage ( above the set limit is present ) on either battery bank .
So if the alternator is charging it should combine and charge the house bank from the chassis bank.
Or when the inverter is charging the house batteries it should combine and charge the chassis batteries
The same holds true of the solar if the solar charge controller manages to raise the coach batteries above the combiners threshold Voltage then the combiner should connect the to battery banks and everybody gets charged.

I'm not to sure the Echo charger works in both directions but I know the Magnum battery combiner does it also has a provision to allow you to use a solenoid to give the system higher current capabilities on my coach I connected it to the boost solenoid to achieve this feature.

Eric

[Mike Gineris]

OK...then I will get the Magnum.  Sounds like a perfect addition.  My Boost Button doesn't work.  There's a solenoid (or fuse) that may be out? 

[Eric Maclean]

Mike
For the boost solenoid it is mounted on the firewall under the bed it is the large black solenoid on the driver's side top .
Below it is a smaller latching solenoid which is run by the salesman switch by the front door.

The original boost solenoid is a White Rodgers part
To check the solenoid have someone hold the boost switch and check at the small terminals on the solenoid one is ground and the other is feed from the boost switch .if there is power and ground at the boost solenoid there should be an audible cluck when the solenoid activates if no cluck then the solenoids coil is likely burnt out if there is a cluck then the coil is working and the problem is likely the contacts within the solenoid are burnt and not making a connection.
If you have no power and ground to activate the solenoid you'll have to check at the switch and wiring to the switch


Here's a link to solenoid for reference

https://www.amazon.ca/Emerson-586-105111-DC-Power-Solenoid/dp/B003HEG8J8/ref=asc_df_B003HEG8J8/?tag=googleshopc0c-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=292938317187&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=10889662380013686232&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=t&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9000653&hvtargid=pla-404268119487&psc=1&language=en_CA

Hope this helps
Eric

[Mike Gineris]

Will get on it.  Thanks for the quick very detailed response.

[Eric Maclean]

Mike
In my earlier post I forgot to mention that the boost switch gets it's power from the house 12 volt fuse panel in the bedroom