Water pressure

[Richard Cooper]

I have a 2001 Marquis.  When I bought it in April 2012 I complained to the seller (who gave me a 30 day warranty on most everything) that the water pressure was too low especially while showering.  It is just a trickle of water at times when connected to city water.  I've even boosted pressure a bit by turning on the water pump to wash dishes in the kitchen sink or shower in the bathroom.

Facts:
1)  I do not yet have a water regulator device, but want to get one --- thinking about a Valterra which is factory set at 50-55 psi -- is this ok?  
2)  My lead-free hose is 3/8 in. kink-free coiled from Amazon -- here:  http://www.amazon.com/Water-Right-PCH-075-MG-4PKRS-75-Foot-Polyurethane/dp/B003P9XB2W/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1340485839&sr=8-2-fkmr1&keywords=kink+free+lead-free+coiled+hose

The service tech for the seller adjusted some of the valve controls in the water bay which gave me hotter water than I was previously getting.  I'm still not 100% happy with my water pressure.

What can I do to increase my water pressure inside the coach?  Could there be a problem at the point of city water coming into the coach -- some replacement needed there?  

Anyone else have this issue?

[Orman Claxton]

Have you checked to see if the outside showers are turned off

[Richard Cooper]

There is no outside shower or showers.

[Gerald Farris]

Richard,
Assuming that you have cleaned the screens at all facets, the highest probability of the thing that is causing the most restriction in water flow when on city water is the factory installed water pressure regulator or it's inlet screen. The 3/8 inch hose that you are using is also part of the problem if the campground water pressure is not excessively high. You will get a higher flow rate with at least a 1/2 hose, and a 3/4 inch hose is even better.

The first thing to do is to remove and clean the inlet screen at the city inlet regulator. If that does not give you enough flow, you will need to replace the inlet water pressure regulator. If you replace the inlet water pressure regulator, you have two options. First, if you install another water pressure regulator here, you should use the 65 PSI Shurflo unit. However, replacing the inlet regulator with a non-regulated inlet that only has a check valve will give you a higher flow rate. If you replace the factory water pressure regulator with a check valve only inlet, you will need to always use a pressure regulator at the facet where you hook up your hose.

The water pressure regulator regulator that you choose is important if flow rate is a concern. You should never use a Valterra regulator or one of similar design because it restricts flow. Only use a full flow adjustable regulator like a Watts regulator that is rated at 4 GPM (gallons per minute) or greater. Adjust the regulator to between 50 PSI and 65 PSI. The 50 PSI setting is easier on your hose, but the 65 PSI setting will give you a higher flow rate.

If you want to increase the water flow when on the water pump, you will need to replace the water pump with a variable speed higher flow rate like Aquajet RV series pump that produces 5.2 GPM at pressures up to 65 PSI.

Gerald    

[Richard Cooper]

Every time I think I am doing something smart and right I find I am not.  ??)  This is what I get for not consulting with you first!  A very experienced fulltimer.  Thank you.

[Dick Simonis]

If i'm not mistaken, these coaches already have a water pressure regulator built in and set to 40 psi.  We alway keep the water pump on to assist with flow for showers, clothes washing and etc.

If you only have a "trickle" without the water pump, I also suspect an obstruction in the inlet line.

[Frank Hillis jr]

The 3/8" hose will discharge up to 7 gals per minute, depending on its length.  My 2004 marquis has a build in regulator in the pump bay, it is adjustable, it has a pressure gage built in to it.  If you are getting low flow at all your faucets, its most likely a partially plugged strainer that is screwed onto the inlet of the water pump.  It can be cleaned or you can replace it if necessary.  Hope this helps.

Frank

[Gerald Farris]

Frank,
If your Marquis has an adjustable regulator built into it in the water pump compartment, it is an aftermarket unit that was added by a previous owner and it is not original equipment.

The strainer that you mentioned will only effect the water flow from the pump and it has no effect on the water flow from the city water inlet when the pump is turned off. However there are strainers at the city water inlet, each facet, and between the kitchen facet handheld unit and the pullout hose that will cause the problem.

Gerald  

[Frank Hillis jr]

Gerald
The pressure regulator came stock on my coach.  I bought the coach new and I didn't add it.  Also the city water all feeds through my pump weather the pump is turned on or not.  I just looked at it to confirm it.  The only branch lines between the regulator are one goes to the ice maker.  One feed the solenoid to fill the fresh water tank, and one goes to the low point drain.  The pump strainer is actually mounted on the pumps discharge not the inlet like I thought.  

Frank

[Gerald Farris]

Frank,
I stand corrected. I have never seen an adjustable pressure regulator that the factory installed in the pump compartment. It also makes no sense to install a screen on the pump outlet because the purpose of the pump screen is to protect the pump and it's check valve from debris.

I have also never seen a coach that runs the city water supply through the pump. The pump suction side has to be tied to the unpressurized tank, so to pressurize the suction side of the pump with the city water supply, you will have to install additional check valves and water lines to the tank. The pump would also restrict the flow rate of the city water supply if it was not running.

Gerald  

[Frank Hillis jr]

Gerald
I apologize for the confusion.  I went back out and looked at it again to make sure I wasnt going crazy.  I climbed in the bin to make sure, and the strainer is on the inlet not the outlet.  Everything else is as I said.  Sorry about that.

Frank

[Gerald Farris]

Frank,
The way that your coach should have been plumbed is the city water inlet tees into the pump outlet, and the unpressurized pump inlet runs to the water tank. The fill valve tees into the city water inlet and when opened, fills the tank with a line that runs around the pump and ties into the water line that goes to the tank. In this way the only water that goes through the pump is the water that it is pumping from the tank. The pump has a check valve in the outlet that prevents water from flowing backwards through the pump.

Gerald

[Frank Hillis jr]

Gerald
     I guess beaver got creative, because the only check valve in my water system is installed at the outlet of the hose reel.  I watched the Fla service center take apart my water bay to get at it and replace it a few years ago, the symptom was the city water inlet would pressurize when I was not hooked up to city water and someone turned on the pump, causing the hose plug to drip going down the road until the system pressure dropped to zero. which also tells me the pump outlet doesn't have a built in check valve, or if its there it's deffective also.  The only problems I've had since new is the check v/v being replaced and when i got the coach new.  The water pressure was set at 20 psi, so i adjusted it up to 45.  Other than that it has always worked perfect.  I didn't mean to hijack this post.  I was hoping to offer some help.  Thanks for your info though.  I'll keep it in mind if I do have a problem.

Thanks,
Frank

[Edward Buker]

Frank,

I believe that the pump has a functioning check valve on the output end that is built in. Otherwise the pressure water when running off the tank and pump would backfeed to the tank when the pump shut down having reached the pressure limit. Then this cycle would continue to repeat as the pressure cut in limit was reached due to backfeed.

When water came out of your city inlet, when it had a bad check valve and the pump was left on, would mean that it was seeing pressure from the outlet side of the water pump, otherwise the city inlet would have acted like an air source to the suction side of the pump and it should not have leaked with the pump on.

These things can be a bit of a puzzle and I'm not sure we have this one undrstood yet.......may the force be with you if you choose to take another trip to the bay.

Later Ed

[Keith Moffett]

Please allow me to jump in here.
 Our Pat is a bit older than most mentioned here but the plumbing diagram is at least similiar.  We also have that water problem in just some areas.  The vanity is fine as was the toilet and the sprayer out in the bay.  The shower is just ok.  The kitchen faucet is terrible for pressure, perhaps a 1/2 quart per minute.  There is only a slight change when the water pump is on.
The plumbing diagram in the manual shows the city water 'Tees' in after the pump and so the check valve in the pump must prevent back flow to the tank when on city water.  Slowly but surely the pressure is dropping in other areas.  The toilet has very little but the toilet sprayer does fine.
Has anyone ever heard of a plastic line collapsing just on the inner walls perhaps?  Seems like if there is decent pressure in some areas the the system must be getting pressure but not to some branches.  Can anyone make sense out of that?
This is just crazy for so many people to have such similar problems.  Could it be that all the answers above have part of the solution?
Thanks
Keith