Reading from my Coach Monitor Panel (CMP-20)

[Richard Cooper]

I have a 2001 Marquis.

Here is the current reading from my CMP-20 as I am now parked in a nice modern campground with 50 amp service.  There are no warning lights on my panel, but please tell me if everything looks ok to you:

Volts AC leg 1 = 119 VAC
Volts AC leg 2 = 126 VAC
DC House = 13.5 V
DC Solar = Charged
Amps AC leg 1 = 21 A
Amps AC leg 2 = 0 A
Amps DC House = +7 A
Amps DC Solar = 1.1 A
AC Hertz Leg 1 = 60 Hz
AC Hertz Leg 2 = 60 Hz

I am running Air conditioning as it's nearly 100 degrees outside here in east Georgia --- I am in part shade though.  I have the air conditioning fan on low.  My ice maker in the lower cabinet near the thermostat (bad location I think) is running, but fixed where ice cubes don't make for now -- just keeping ice bin frozen.  I might empty the ice bin and turn the ice maker off completely as I think that would help keep the room a bit cooler. I'm also running an LED 24" HDTV, an electric oscillating fan and the double door refrigerator.

I do not yet have a power surge guard installed.  Just plugged into 50 amp pedestal outside.

Do these readings look normal for what I've told you so far?  Need to know anything else?

[Richard Cooper]

The Prosine reads:

Bat:  13.6V   +5.0 A

[Gerald Farris]

Richard,
Your readings look OK. One bit of information that you may not realize is that with the A/C set on low fan, your basement A/C unit will only run one compressor. That setting is necessary if you are on 30 amp service, however since you are on 50 amp service your A/C unit will cool much better if you turn the setting to high fan. The high fan setting will allow both compressors to run.

Gerald

[Karl Welhart]

Gerald noticed an important point.  Your leg 2 amp reading is 0.  This should not be the case with your situation and may be due to the second compressor not running, but with everything you listed as being on, I would think you should be reading something on your leg 2.  Perhaps the pickup wire in the switch box is not connected, that happened to mine when it was new.

Additionally, if the ice maker is not making ice but is cooling OK.  There may be an easy fix...  Just take the cover off the ice maker motor/controller and spin the nut on the gear 5-6 times around (clockwise) with a power screw driver.  Note, this should be done with the ice maker defrosted and power off.  Turn on power and watch the gear turn very slowly after the temp is below freezing.

[Richard Cooper]

Your readings look OK. One bit of information that you may not realize is that with the A/C set on low fan, your basement A/C unit will only run one compressor.

You are quite right.  I did not know that.  Now this all figures.  I should read the manual.  I had put the fan to "high" late this morning and the interior is much cooler than yesterday.  It's 101 degrees outdoors and 78 inside the living room.  I have an oscillating fan going too.

Here are my CMP results now:

Volts AC leg 1 = 120 VAC
Volts AC leg 2 = 122 VAC
DC House = 13.4 V
DC Solar = Charged
Amps AC leg 1 = 22 A
Amps AC leg 2 = 14 A
Amps DC House = +8 A
Amps DC Solar = 7.2 A
AC Hertz Leg 1 = 60 Hz
AC Hertz Leg 2 = 60 Hz

The other comment about my ice maker.  It makes ice just fine -- it works.  But right now I have enough ice and so I lifted the arm inside to stop it from making more ice.  Doing this seems to make it run much cooler.  I don't think anything is wrong with the ice maker.  When it makes ice continuously, however, it does heat up the drawer above and even heats the kitchen/living room area a bit.  Is this normal or not?

[Gerald Farris]

Richard,
Yes it is normal for your U-Line icemaker to heat up the cabinet area more when it is making ice. The icemaker freezes water by removing heat from the water to turn it into ice, therefore the heat has to go somewhere. The icemaker should exhaust most of that heat out the left side of the grill that is below the door. If the fan that is used to exhaust that heat fails, the area around the icemaker will get hotter and the icemaker will produce very little or no ice. So if it is producing an adequate amount of ice, all is well.

Gerald  

[Richard Cooper]

Additionally, if the ice maker is not making ice but is cooling OK.  There may be an easy fix...  Just take the cover off the ice maker motor/controller and spin the nut on the gear 5-6 times around (clockwise) with a power screw driver.  Note, this should be done with the ice maker defrosted and power off.  Turn on power and watch the gear turn very slowly after the temp is below freezing.

OK, now my ice maker is not making ice.  I don't have a power screw driver.  I suppose the same thing can be done with a regular hand cranked screw driver, right?

It was making ice just fine until it filled up with ice and the wire trip thing inside stopped the ice making.  After I pulled out the excess ice and lowered the wire trip thing (don't know what it is called), it wouldn't make anymore ice.  I think maybe it stripped the gears or something.  Sometimes it makes ice and other times it doesn't.  Right now the ice maker has been defrosted, dried out.

What should I do? :-/

[Karl Welhart]

Just turn it back on and see if it works.

[Richard Cooper]

I did and it makes about 6 cubes of ice and quits.  Whole box is cold -- frozen.  

I tried to pull off the face plate, but won't budge.  I guess I should get down on the floor with a flashlight and screwdriver and see if I can mess with it that way.