I think Bill is concerned about having to deal with on-the-road shutdowns like others have experienced here, and wants to stave off such an inconvenience. Given I also experienced weird starting issues in Midwest heat this summer, a problem that stopped in cooler climes, I'm also considering going electronic as a pre-emptory move, or as one that optimizes my system, depending on how you look at it. Among the dozens of things I can replace on the rig, most of which as you say aren't cost effective (and I agree), I'd say this particular one might be cost effective given the level of potential inconvenience it would prevent.
I too rarely had a problem with the old "Ford" type solenoids on the farm, but it can happen. The emergency boost solenoid on our old Pace Arrow quit on me once when I needed it, and I had to jumper the main connections to transfer house bat power to the starter. The contacts inside can carbon up or burn eventually, which I would presume is not an issue with electronic units. I've also found that there can be variability in quality with mechanical solenoids, and that you get what you pay for.
By the way Bill, when you disconnect the big red wire to the old solenoid, be sure you cover and protect the its lead so you don't accidentally ground it on something while you're dismounting the old solenoid and mounting the new one - that heavy wire can carry a lot of amps. And be careful when removing the nut on the big red wire's post that your wrench handle doesn't swing into an adjacent component. Then bend the wire out of the way and tape it until you have the electronic unit mounted and are ready to connect the big red wire to its positive post.
Joel
