Author Topic: New Beaver look/ MCD Shades  (Read 23279 times)

Orman Claxton

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New Beaver look/ MCD Shades
« on: May 03, 2013, 08:30:39 PM »
 Good Afternoon From Yuma, AZ, Windy, 94 deg, 6% Humidity,
We are having RV Decor here in Yuma install our new MCD shades, Now CP( Susie) is talking about redoing the blind valences, Has anyone done this before, any advise,Warnings Etc.
We are Looking forward to seeing everyone in Gillette,

Roy Warren Co-Admin

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Re: New Beaver look/ MCD Shades
« Reply #1 on: May 04, 2013, 02:18:33 PM »
Orman,
We have a 2005 Patriot Thunder and the valences were not deep enough for the MCD shades.  We had to add an insert, about 1 to 1 1/4 inches.  We had RV Outfitters do the work.  The insert was solid walnut, the same as our cabinets.  Looks great and the valences did not have to be changed.
Roy
Roy Warren
2005 Patriot Thunder
Cat C-13

Dennis Evans

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Re: New Beaver look/ MCD Shades
« Reply #2 on: May 04, 2013, 03:14:49 PM »
Orman, we had our MCD shades installed at the factory in Texas.  We only installed night shades on the windows, so the valances required no modification.  We did get both day and night shades on the windshield, so that did require some modification.  We removed the power visors and creaded one long channel to hold the two rollers.

Jim Stewart

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Re: New Beaver look/ MCD Shades
« Reply #3 on: May 06, 2013, 05:37:56 AM »
Orman,

I had the dual MCD shades installed throughout our '06 Monterey at their plant in McKinney, TX last month.  Due to the estimated labor cost running the wiring throughout the coach, we only had the front dual shades motorized, but their installers could only wire them (using the two switches on the driver's console) with the ignition key in the "on"  position.  We had hoped they would operate with the ignition off as well.

Can you operate your front shades both ways, with the ignition switch "on" and "off?"  If so, can you explain how the were able to accomplish this.
 

Thank you,

Jim Stewart


P.S.  Met you several years ago in Albuquerque during the Balloon Fiesta and you showed me your '05         Monterey.  

Dennis Evans

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Re: New Beaver look/ MCD Shades
« Reply #4 on: May 06, 2013, 03:02:03 PM »
Jim

As stated previously, we had our shades installed at the plant in McKinney.  For the same reason you stated, we only had the front dual windshield shades and a single night shade on the drivers side window motorized.  They all operate with the ignition off.  When the ignition is on the windshield shade canot be completely lowered to prevent accidental vision blockage while driving.

Orman Claxton

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Re: New Beaver look/ MCD Shades
« Reply #5 on: May 09, 2013, 04:18:31 AM »
Hi Jim
Installer told me today that shades will only go down to a  preset position ( where ever I want it,) This is for driving only
Shade will only lower ALL  the way IF the ignition switch is in the off position .

Orman Claxton

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Re: New Beaver look/ MCD Shades
« Reply #6 on: May 11, 2013, 03:26:27 PM »
Well, shades were completed yesterday, WOW,What a difference,,
Shades can be programed to stop at any location while driving ( Ignition on)
Instructions are in the Manual you rec.

Keith Oliver

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Re: New Beaver look/ MCD Shades
« Reply #7 on: June 04, 2013, 01:59:05 AM »
Sorry that I didn't see this thread when it was active.  My excuse, I was visiting Daughter and Granddaughter in Paris.

I had MCD shades installed in Palm Desert in March.  I postponed dealing with the valences until the summer, so that I could do a proper job.  Well, I am in the midst of that right now.  
I bought Alder at the hardwood wholesaler in Vancouver.  I bought a better planer here on Saltspring Island.  I now have one completed valence, the first window I selected was the passenger  side bedroom.  It turned out ok, so I could go ahead with the rest.  I have reduced all of the big wood I purchased to smaller pieces.  I have rounded the edges that needed rounding, put decorative grooves where they belong, and have almost all the pieces cut to finished size.  Now I am in the process of removing all of the existing blinds and valences, painting over the vinyl paper, filling the tears and holes, etc.  If anyone ever tells you this is a small job, you will know they haven't done it.
Before leaving Palm Desert, I went aboard a friend's Foretravel and took some pictures of the valences.  Likewise a high end Monaco.  Mine are not a copy, I just adapted some of the ideas that gave me.
I will post pictures once I am done.  At the present rate, that will be at least a couple of weeks from now.
The biggest surprise so far was finding the horizontal piece that the windshield shades and valence attach to is bowed.  Need to adapt to the curve.  I don't think my alder is that bendy, as the valence is 5.75" tall at that location.

Keith Oliver

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Re: New Beaver look/ MCD Shades
« Reply #8 on: June 17, 2013, 05:10:08 AM »
To update on my valence project:
I had to leave the project for a week, due to some business, but I am back at it.  I found a bulge in the wall below where the valences sit, but decided that, since I was planning to repaint in any event, I could cut into the bulge and determine whether I could flatten it.  Well, that didn't go well.  

Beaver built these coaches with an aluminum box tubing frame.  They infilled between the tubing runs with white styrofoam and covered the whole with 1/8 plywood, inside and outside.  Because there were some places they wanted a more secure fastening of the plywood than just to the styrofoam, there are some softwood 2x2s, to which the plywood is stapled. Around the windows there may also be some 1/2 plywood, depending where the nearest aluminum box tube is.

The bulge I opened was caused by water getting into the wood, both the 2x2 and the plywood, and rotting it.  The particular location is between the two big windows on the passenger side.  I eventually found the source to be the top of the window ahead of the table, under the Girard awning, and the leak actually went upwards through the plywood covering, to the underside of the aluminum, along to between the windows, and down to the floor, filling the space between the vertical aluminum and the white styrofoam, a space of about 4" in which I found a mess of soggy black mush that used to be a 2x2 and a 2x 1/2 plywood.  At the bottom, just above the floor, the thin plywood covering the inside of the wall was letting the water out onto the floor at a slower rate than it had been coming in, so the cavity acted like a water glass, the bits of rotting wood I pulled up out of there were actually dripping wet.

There were other places that the wallpaper was lifting, which I now treated as "suspicious", so I attacked them all with a chisel.  I found some wetness is a few other spots, but nothing like the first spot.  

The reason this problem exists is that in the original build, Beaver used the cheapest grade of 1/8 plywood for the covering of both sides of the walls.  The glue isn't water proof, so as soon as it gets damp, the plies separate and the plywood turns into a sponge.  To top it off, there is nothing done to make the window openings waterproof.  They should have been covered with a layer of epoxy, or even a layer of caulking.

The inside of my coach is starting to look better now, as I have cleaned and dried all the places that I opened up, then I put new 1/8 ply back on where I had taken the bad stuff off, and am in the process of painting and filling.  When that repair is done, I can get back to the valences.

I have another valence completed and ready to go in, and all of the rest of the wood ready for assembly, but I have to go back to Vancouver tomorrow for about a week, so won't be finishing this project any time soon.

Keith Oliver

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Re: New Beaver look/ MCD Shades
« Reply #9 on: September 07, 2013, 06:36:28 AM »
After some false starts, my valences are almost done.  The last one is in the shop getting its last coats of varnish before going up.  I have done 10 of 11 windows as they all got the MCD blinds in the springtime. The galley already had a wood valence, so I didn't change that one...yet.  The windshield turned out to be on a perfectly straight piece of the aluminum frame of the coach, it was only the padded vinyl that made it appear curved initially.  The new valence over the windshield was actually the simplest, as it is composed of only one piece of wood, attached with pocket drilled screws, up into the aforementioned framing.  The most complicated was the driver's window, as the distance from the glass to the side of the dash was only 2", and all of the valences were being made 3 1/2" deep.  This required some creativity, and I settled on making the front facia of the valence taper as it desended from the top to bottom.  This piece also had to be just over 7" wide at the bottom, tapering to 3" wide at the top, to align with the angled front of the driver's window.  This valence also had to disappear behind the TV boc, so couldn't be pre-assembled, but had to be attached to the wall and ceiling piece by piece.

I will try to get some pictures up over the next week, once the last valence is installed.

The project stalled when I was preparing the walls to take the new valences.  I found that the original build of the coach interior was done by lining the entire interior of the coach, before any cabinetry was installed, with 1/8" 3 ply with a vinyl covering.  All of the cabinetry was then installed, attached through this thin wallcovering, into the aluminum framework.  The window openings were unprotected from water intrusion, and intrude it did.  Most of the 1/8 ply around the driver's window was completely rotten, as was that between and below the two curb side large windows.  In fact, the water had started lifting the flooring between those windows.  When I started digging out the rot, I got all the way through to the outside fibreglass between the two curbside windows before it was all gone.  The windows had to come out, the delamination of the outside fibreglass had to be fixed, and the openings had to be made watertight.  I was/am appalled at the lack of attention to protecting the window openings in the original build.  I used blueskin before re-installing the windows that I have fixed.  The others will get blueskin when I have time, but as they don't appear to have leaked, as yet, I can leave them till I am south this winter.  The "great workmanship" of Beaver relied on one thin piece of butyl tape between the outside edge of the windows and the fibreglass skin of the coach to keep out the water.  This was adequate for a number of years, but there was no thought given to where the water would go should that gasket fail, and they always fail.  Once I got rid of the rot and put the walls back together, it was time to get away, so we downed tools and went boating for the summer.  I returned to the valence project when we returned at the end of August.

Watch this space for pictures of the finished project.

Keith Oliver

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Re: New Beaver look/ MCD Shades
« Reply #10 on: September 12, 2013, 09:19:54 PM »
pix:  At last, I see I can post only two this time, so I will add some others in subsequent posts.
« Last Edit: September 12, 2013, 09:32:15 PM by 6430 »

Keith Oliver

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Re: New Beaver look/ MCD Shades
« Reply #11 on: September 12, 2013, 09:23:26 PM »
pix 3 &4: These are a representative sample.  I have mmore but will only bore you with them on request.  

Thanks to Steve and Joel for help getting pictures to post.

Steve Huber Co-Admin

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Re: New Beaver look/ MCD Shades
« Reply #12 on: September 13, 2013, 05:24:14 PM »
Keith,
Nice job on the re-flooring too. How did you deal with the metal plate that covered the step closeout, since, if like my 01 Contessa, it sits on the sub-floor and is about .25" thick with a port to access the closeout air valve.
Thx, Steve
Steve
2015-          07 Contessa Bayshore C9,  400 hp
2013-2015: 00 Marquis Tourmaline, C12, 425 hp
2005-2013: 01 Contessa Naples, 3126B, 330 hp

Glenda Farris Co-Admin

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Re: New Beaver look/ MCD Shades
« Reply #13 on: September 13, 2013, 05:32:12 PM »
Sorry about photo problems.  When it is confusing, you can email the photos to me and I can resize them and post them for you.
You want the file size to be as small as possible since you are limited to 1mg per post.

Glenda.  8)

Keith Oliver

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Re: New Beaver look/ MCD Shades
« Reply #14 on: September 13, 2013, 07:33:48 PM »
Steve:

Thanks for the kudos.
The flooring needed to match the existing galley flooring, for height, so as it happened the extra subfloor needed matched the metal panel exactly.  On mine the close-out valve is accessible from below, as my genset is in the rear, so there is no access panel from above.
Werre I to do it again, I wouldn't use laminate, as it moves too much with changes in humidity.  Here in BC, at the moment, the outdoor humidity is in the 80 to 90% range and teh laminate is buckling slightly where it isn't constrained by fastenings.  This happened last year at this time, and went away as soon as we headed south for the desert.  The galley hardwood chages with humidity too, but only so much as to crack the varnish at the joints, which, although irritating, leads to a refinished look every couple of years.