Gray Tank Dump Valve Replacement

[Randy Perry]

My (2000 Patriot) gray tank valve is leaking and was wondering what it's going to take to fix. I have yet to take the panel cover off to see what I'm up against!

[Richard And Babs Ames]

Sometimes it is just some dirt  in the slide seal. Something like a flexible tiolet brush and a good cleaning with dish detergent up the pipe will cure the problem. I would try that first before the panal removal and replacing the valve.

[Bruce Benson]

Have not done it on the Beaver but here are two thoughts from experience with a previous coach.  

The cable to the dump valve must push the valve solidly closed.  If it is being stopped by the housing on the handle end before it is fully closed then it will leak.  There is sometimes an adjustment in the T handle in the form of a lock nut and the treads between the handle and the cable that allow a little bit of adjustment.  Sometimes that is all that it takes.  There is also a possibility that the cable has worked loose at the valve actuator. That could be re-tightened.  There might be some extra cable at the actuator that would allow you to lengthen the cable a bit if the T handle adjustment is not there or is not enough.  You want the T handle to almost make it to the stop but not quite (1/8 in or so).  

I think that I would also try back-flushing the valve by using a cap with a hose fitting and making up or buying (often in a quick couple set) a double female hose fitting so that you could connect the cap through a hose to a hydrant.  I doubt that you can get a spray of water into the gray valve by sticking a sprayer up the dump.  The gray is usually Y'd off and the main dump line goes directly to the black valve.

I would work the valve on and off as I half filled the tank through the drain, shut it off, drain it and do the whole thing a couple of times more.

It could be that your valve has gone bad and you will end up replacing it but I would want to rule out not closing fully or a wad of hair lodged in it before I took the big task on.

The pictures are helpful, by the way.  My coach has electric valves which could not benefit from the suggestion on the handles, so without the pictures I would have thought that yours were electric as well.

Bruce

[Randy Perry]

Thank's for the replys, I try scrubbing and makeing sure the T-handle is shutting all the way!

[Mike And Mary Engen]

It's not hard to disassemble if you have two people.  Helped a friend this Summer on his 2000 Beaver Patriot as his valve was hanging up.  It's easier if one person can hold the panel, while the other person takes off the valve handles and removes screws to take the valves off the panel/

With the panel out of the way, you can even change the valve as it just has 4 screws with nuts.  Most rv dealerships carry the spare valves, but there is at least two different sizes for the bolt-on valve.  If you are handy at all and have basic tools, you should attempt it yourself.

To make it easier, get a small seat and a battery screwdriver,  You may want to caulk once you reassemble.  Do not overtighten the valve or it will pinch it.

Mike

[Randy Perry]

Yea, I'd rather fix these kinds of things myself. Just wasn't sure what I'd see behind the panel! Thanks Mike.


Randy

[Tom and Pam Brown]

i have a 1999 marquis and have replace both valves and the elelctric solenoids as well.
It was a little tight but the valve comes apart easily the only trick is to make sure the gaskets seat properly.

I used a piece of wood to hold the cover from falling.  with all the water lines attached it was not really an issue.

I had to shim the bottom of the pipe to get a ratchet on it.

Really a very simple but tedious repair.  less than 1 hour

[Tom and Pam Brown]

one other thing you will have to remove the gas struts to be able to get the door far enough out to gain access.
make sure you support the door well or a headache will ensue.

[Joel Ashley]

Judging by the photo, Randy may not have to remove his door struts.  I'd run with Richard and Babs' idea first, as I've found debris jammed in the slot that receives the slide in these valves in the past, and if accessible, you can brush the stuff out.  Attempts to close the valve leak by pushing hard may have served to only compress the debris more firmly in the slot, so it could be well entrenched.  Could be the valve slide or slot has been damaged by debris and will indeed require replacement, but as the guys say, I don't think it's as tough to remove the panel as it is an inconvenience.  

As mentioned by Bruce, you may need to work with an adjustment nut on the cable or rod after cleaning or replacement.