Author Topic: Slide Out Roof Repair  (Read 6421 times)

Matthew Harger

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Slide Out Roof Repair
« on: February 17, 2014, 01:36:42 AM »
My used coach came with a bit of old dried water damage on the inside of the kitchen cabinets right above the sink.  This area is contained within the slide out portion.  Upon inspecting the slide out roof, there are obvious big cracks in the old sealant right above the area of the old water damage.  We have had a couple of doosey storms come through and with the slide out closed there are no signs of any leaking.  With the cracks in the sealant i'm not taking any chances leaving it open during any rain at all so all has remained dry.  Time to fix...

My question is the best course to take to fix.  Should I clean the area well and just reseal it well with a heavy bead of Dicor right over the old stuff, or should i scrape any off and then reseal.  I don't think any of the eternabond tapes will work well in this area due to the curves, but maybe i'm wrong, it would be a little more tedious.  Anyways, looking for some advice on the best fix route to take.
Thanks

Bill Sprague

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Re: Slide Out Roof Repair
« Reply #1 on: February 17, 2014, 03:46:28 PM »
Our motorhome is 10 years old, we spend a lot of time in the rain soaked northwest and all three slides have leaked at various times.  So have the front cap and an A/C unit.  Right now I can say nothing has leaked for about two years.  

Because Beavers are flat on top, water does not drain off well.   (Most "lesser" RVs have slope and gutters built in!) Because of the uneven flatness and variables in leveling, everywhere there is a rivet, seam or attached device there is also the opportunity of a shallow puddle that will leak through.  The answer is to clean each suspected rivet and seam as good as you can and apply new sealant.  (For one slide leak I used to adjust the leveling with a slight left slope to get the water away from a seal!)

I would not use Dicor as it is self leveling and seems to stay "gummy" for awhile.  Lexal is a favorite of many.  Silicone is not, although I've used it with apparent success.  Whatever you use, it should be UV resistant.  

The hardest slide seam to seal it the inner one that goes front to back.  From your picture, it looks like that is the one that is your current problem.  Once I have the entire slide topper/awning removed, I can lift the "wipe seal" enough to apply sealant to it.   When it was new and under warranty, a factory tech sealed one slide by fitting a piece of clear tubing over the nozzle on a caulking tube as an extension, brought the slide in and sealed it by feel as he reached between the top edge and the ceiling.  His coverall sleeves weren't clean, so we had to clean the ceiling fabric when he finished!

Good luck with your repair.  It really hurts to see water stain damage on our beautiful interiors when it is so difficult to keep them sealed.  We spend the extra money every month it is parked to keep it under a roof.  We watch carefully when it rains.  And, we've spent a lot of time in Arizona the last couple years.  I hear the Californians have stopped getting rain for awhile.  Maybe that would be a good place to travel now.   8)

Phone me if you think I can be of any help at all.

Marty and Suzie Schenck

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Re: Slide Out Roof Repair
« Reply #2 on: February 17, 2014, 08:50:05 PM »
Bill, the top of the slides on Beavers up to 2002 and some 2003 are not flat on top. They are slopped from the inside down and from the center down and out to the ends. They were designed that way so water would naturally run off and not stand. When Monaco took over they went to Monaco designed (flat) top slides. This is why most early models didn't come with slide toppers. The only down side to early Beaver slide tops is that they don't shed leafs or pine needles.  I like the early ones, no toppers to flap in the wind.
Marty

Matthew Harger

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Re: Slide Out Roof Repair
« Reply #3 on: February 17, 2014, 09:01:48 PM »
This is a longer, overall view shot of the whole slide that shows the top edge and the sealant that has failed.

Matthew Harger

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Re: Slide Out Roof Repair
« Reply #4 on: February 17, 2014, 09:03:59 PM »
So scrape the old off and lay a heavy bead of Lexel in its place?

neil omalley

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Re: Slide Out Roof Repair
« Reply #5 on: February 18, 2014, 02:46:59 AM »
Matt:I would look at the Duralast tape. (Ya know what-I'm not sure that's the name of the tape. But the next guy answering will !) It's made especially for sealing around edges and joints.

Bill Sprague

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Re: Slide Out Roof Repair
« Reply #6 on: February 18, 2014, 04:30:33 AM »
Quote from: Marty and Suzie Schenck
Bill, the top of the slides on Beavers up to 2002 and some 2003 are not flat on top. They are slopped from the inside down and from the center down and out to the ends. They were designed that way so water would naturally run off and not stand. When Monaco took over they went to Monaco designed (flat) top slides. This is why most early models didn't come with slide toppers. The only down side to early Beaver slide tops is that they don't shed leafs or pine needles.  I like the early ones, no toppers to flap in the wind.
Marty
Marty, I do enjoy it when you remind me we bought in less than a Beaver vintage year.   :-/  Even Winnebagos have domed roofs!  




Bill Sprague

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Re: Slide Out Roof Repair
« Reply #7 on: February 18, 2014, 04:39:11 AM »
Quote from: Matthew Harger
So scrape the old off and lay a heavy bead of Lexel in its place?
There are probably six ways to do it, but that is what I would do, except I might say normal bead of Lexel or other UV resistant sealant.  

For what it's worth, I was redoing a rear cap to roof seam a week ago.  My two favorite tools were a Rockwell Sonicrafter with a scraper blade and a wire brush wheel on an angle grinder.  Careful use quickly and thoroughly removed the old stuff.


Bill Sprague

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Re: Slide Out Roof Repair
« Reply #8 on: February 18, 2014, 04:42:30 AM »
Quote from: neil omalley
Matt:I would look at the Duralast tape. (Ya know what-I'm not sure that's the name of the tape. But the next guy answering will !) It's made especially for sealing around edges and joints.
Neil,

I was going to use a version called Eternabond.  I watched a YouTube about how to apply it and decided it was too much work for my rear cap.  I watched another YouTube about Dicor self leveling sealant and decided that it would be a lot easier.  


Matthew Harger

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Re: Slide Out Roof Repair
« Reply #9 on: February 18, 2014, 07:02:50 AM »
Thx everyone....I've got all three in possession already, tubes of Lexel, tubes of Dicor, and a roll of Eternabond. I'll make something work.