Author Topic: Hydraulic Leveling  (Read 31303 times)

Edward Buker

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Re: Hydraulic Leveling
« Reply #30 on: April 12, 2014, 08:01:49 PM »
Karl,

The $7000 figure that I remembered was for the active air system now that I went back and looked at some prior posts. The standard air leveling system was the $4600 number you mentioned. Looks like that has grown to $4922....basically $5k.

Later Ed

Jerry Emert

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Re: Hydraulic Leveling
« Reply #31 on: April 12, 2014, 10:06:30 PM »
Quote from: LaMonte Monnell
I have a 2001 Beaver Contessa and have the IDS hydraulic leveling system only.

Due to some jacks with leaks I am going to have HWH in Moscow, Iowa install an air leveling system in my coach in July.

They will remove the hydraulic jacks and cap and secure  the lines reducing that weight. The control box for the IDS system will be replaced with the Air control panel.

The front living room slide operates from the same hydraulic reservoir and will continue to work for that.

They gave me a quote of $4922 to do this job and it will take 1-2 days. Hope you get it all straightened out......
Thanks,
I think the air only will be good enough for me if it works, and I think it does.  I'll probably try to get the dealer to compensate me for it somehow.  If I can talk to the tech I may be able to get an idea what the problem is.  They didn't mention any leaks or anything so I'm guessing its going to be the control box.  Granted I know nothing about it but it just seems logical.  the control units seem to be available as noted in some of the above posts.  we'll see what happens.
« Last Edit: April 20, 2014, 02:29:16 AM by 5 »
Jerry, Chief USN Retired
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Jerry Emert

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Re: Hydraulic Leveling
« Reply #32 on: April 15, 2014, 10:50:46 PM »
2nd attempt at delivery tomorrow.  Last two questions ... for now.  
1.  Worst case, considering no visible hydraulic leaks, ball park best guess, how much to fix the IDS system if parts were found?

2. When leveling do you dump the air first to make it level with the steps closer to the ground?  Does it matter?
Thanks again.
Jerry
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Stan Simpson

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Re: Hydraulic Leveling
« Reply #33 on: April 15, 2014, 11:55:01 PM »

Our coach has air leveling only. We don't dump before we level, as the act of leveling might have to reverse part of that. Also, there is a big warning sign on our leveling controls stating the slide outs MUST be OUT before leveling. Conversely, we always bring them in before switching back to travel mode.

Stan
« Last Edit: April 20, 2014, 02:29:43 AM by 5 »
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Gerald Farris

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Re: Hydraulic Leveling
« Reply #34 on: April 16, 2014, 01:21:05 AM »
Jerry,
Even if you could find parts to repair the automatic operation of your hydraulic leveling system, it is very doubtful that you could find a qualified repair technician in your area. Since I have no idea what you would have to pay for the parts, if you could find them, the only price estimate that I can give you to repair the hydraulic leveling system is the $1,200 that BCS (Beaver Coach Sales) charges to convert the system to a manual hydraulic leveling system.

As for your question about dumping the air before leveling, that is the procedure that is used when hydraulic leveling, but not if you are using air leveling. The air leveling system will lower the high point on the coach by letting air out of the suspension until it is level. It will only add air to level the coach if the coach high point will not come down any more, then it will add air to the low point. That is why it is important that the electric compressor for the air leveling system to be operational, because it supplies the necessary air pressure to maintain the level condition of the coach while you are camped.

Another thing to remember is to extend the slides before you level and retract them only after the suspension is completely inflated back to travel height. In other words "slides out first and in last".  

Gerald

Lee Welbanks

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Re: Hydraulic Leveling
« Reply #35 on: April 16, 2014, 02:32:07 AM »
With my 06 Beaver Thunder I believe it has the HWH 2000 and they say do not dump before leveling, go from travel state to level. Pull into camp spot hit the level button twice and in a minute its level. It will level to the highest corner, they call it bi-axis, levels side to side then front to rear, if the right front is the high spot on the pad the right side drops and then the rear matches the front to level the coach. Only time I ever dump the air is when parking in storage, I know one thing if I try to go from a dumped state to the raised state the system gets all confused, have to go to travel then to raise.
I always level first and then run the slides out, there was or is a big thread over at IRv2 about just that. I always figured that it is better to be in a level state before running out the slides, especially the two big front room slides, procedure has worked fine so far.

Jerry Emert

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Re: Hydraulic Leveling
« Reply #36 on: April 16, 2014, 03:18:34 AM »
Thanks all I appreciate your help and patience.

Jerry
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Joel Ashley

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Re: Hydraulic Leveling
« Reply #37 on: April 16, 2014, 08:18:49 AM »
There has been controversy here in past threads, because Monaco engineers recommend the procedure that Gerald Farris mentioned.  We were taught the same thing during our dealer walk through at BCS when we bought it new.  We follow it as a Basic Rule... "Slides out first and in last".  Park, put slides out, then auto or manual level.  Break camp, start engine, go to Travel Mode, shut down engine, pull in slides.  Search the Forum for prior discussions if you like;  explaining the reasoning behind it isn't simple.  Other coach builders suggest their owners use the opposite procedure, so it's not surprising it is an oft-hashed topic on the other forum.

On another aspect, I occasionally do dump air when leveling if otherwise my entry step might end up unusually high off the entry ground;  my wife complains if there is a giant first step up.  I also often use a heavy duty RV fold-up step stool in lieu of that.

Joel
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Richard And Babs Ames

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Re: Hydraulic Leveling
« Reply #38 on: April 16, 2014, 01:55:12 PM »
We have been taught the (Joel Method) and have found that as long as the coach is leveled or at ride height with our Kitchen bath slide only it does not make any difference. I think it is easier on the system leveled for us but remember it is one slide that only extends 18 inches.

Thad said my son has a Jayco Seneca with a full wall slide that goes out 30 inches and he has to be leveled to extend it. Makes me feel that the "leveled" part is the important thing.

Jerry Emert

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Re: Hydraulic Leveling
« Reply #39 on: April 17, 2014, 03:41:39 AM »
Finally picked up the Patriot.  The tech at Orlando RV actually knew someone involved with the design of the IDS system.  After talking with them he built a manual panel for the levelers.  It works great.  I've got to say that it was a great experience buying there.  The salesman were typical say anything to get it sold types.  When I told management that the salesman promised all that, they stood by his word and went through the coach with a fine toothed comb.  The prep guys were all great techs and fixed anything I found wrong with no complaint.  Overall this Newbie has to recommend them highly!  Below should be a pic of the control panel.  I hope.
Jerry, Chief USN Retired
2003 Patriot Thunder Lexington 40' 3 Slides
C-12 Ser#  2KS89983
4000MH