Mystery brass valves?

[Gordon Webster]

This is an easy one. I have 4 brass fittings with an outlet hole just above my air outlet and just below my air filter indicator in the fuel filter bay (last one back on the passenger side). They have thumb turns for opening and closing them. The guy I bought from didn't know what they were and I would like to know what they are.

[Edward Buker]

Gordon,

They are low point drains for the air tanks that supply the suspension and brakes. You can every once in awhile turn them on and let a good blast of air out for a few seconds. If no moisture just close them. How often you do this is based on the moisture that you get, should be next to none with an air dryer in the system. If you have an air dryer and you get much moisture you should have the air dryer serviced.

Later Ed

[Joel Ashley]

As Ed explained, they are for removing any built-up air tank moisture, especially if you've been in a humid region.  The wet and dry tank purge is recommended in such conditions at least once a month.  

But my manual instructs that they be left open for five minutes after all the tank air has been drained (purged) through them.  This is to be sure any latent moisture escapes.  Be sure to close all four valves afterward.

But as Ed also pointed out, if there is much moisture expelled, you'd best have your air dryer serviced since a working one should allow no water into the tanks in the first place.

[Stan Simpson]

The other one, on the left in the picture, is an air chuck. So you can fill your tires without having a separate air compressor on board. There's a good link how to do it on YouTube. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QDOqCk6dTuo

I made an air hose with a gauge as suggested. Works great. Watch your fingers when you use that air chuck!! It bites!  

Stan

[Gordon Webster]

Thanks guys. Those were just a mystery to me. Good maintenance info from you as usual.

[Joel Ashley]

Not to hijack this thread, but Stan- did you put one of those twist-lock air nozzles on your contraption?  Can't find one locally so will have to get online I guess, and before doing so I wondered how well they stayed on the valve.

Joel

[Stan Simpson]

Joel, I did, and have never had a problem with it coming off.

Stan

[Bill Sprague]

Not to hijack this thread, but Stan- did you put one of those twist-lock air nozzles on your contraption?  Can't find one locally so will have to get online I guess, and before doing so I wondered how well they stayed on the valve.

Joel

If you are talking about an air chuck that stays attached to the valve stem by itself, try this one:  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008PZ7LMW/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[David T. Richelderfer]

Or... just go by a Les Schwab's and buy one with a quick connect.  Mine cost about $8.50 if memory serves.

[Joel Ashley]

David, does the one at Les Schwab use the Twist Lock mechanism, like I presume Bill's recommendation does?  If so, my Clackamas Les store is only 2 miles away.
By the way, do you know the Symionow's in Hermiston?  They bought my Shelby 20+ years ago.

And Stan, where did you get your chuck/extension?

Joel

[David T. Richelderfer]

The air inflator chuck I purchased from Schwab's is not a twist on.  It's the type the guys at Schwab's use in their car and truck tire service bays.  And I will admit early on I had trouble keeping the chuck attached to the valve stem.  What I found is just a little side-pull pressure is required.  Too much side-pull pressure will pull the chuck off the valve stem.  So I place my portable compressor about a foot to the side of the tire and that allows just a little side-pull on the hose and chuck.  But the chuck is so easy to remove and replace... especially when I try to get the PSI right on.  The regulator on the portable compressor will get it close but I use a separate handheld air gauge to get the pressure right where I want it.  It's quicker to slightly overfill the tire pressure by a couple PSI and use the tire gauge to bleed it back to where I want it.

I have lived in Hermiston since the early 90s... but since I worked in Pendleton until retirement I got to know few people here.  On the internet I find a Helen, Pete, and Todd Symionow, but I do not know them.

[Joel Ashley]

Hey Stan-

Where did you get your dial guage and brass fittings?  I couldn't put together the right parts yesterday at Home Depot.  I'm building the full contraption, including ball valve for remote compressor control.  After I get that much together I'll take David's advice and pick up a tilt-lock chuck at my Clackamas Les Schwab's.  The one in the video looks like a Tru-Flate 17-395, but shipping add's to the cost from Amazon - likely cheaper and maybe an even better model at Les'.

Apparently there are gauged chucks that have tilt-lock tips, so you could monitor tire pressure as you go and still use the ball valve to keep the engine compressor running.

-Joel

[Stan Simpson]

Joel,

Sorry so late in answering you. We have been on the road for a few days, without internet. I got all of the fittings and the gauge at Lowes.

Safe travels all,

Stan

[Joel Ashley]

So did I yesterday.  Cost more than expected though, ~$35, and still don't have the tilt-lock chuck from Les Schwab.

Joel

[Joel Ashley]

I believe we have thoroughly hijacked Gordon's thread, but ...

For anyone interested in following up on the YouTube video from RVGeeks, here are the necessary parts for the complete assembly, including the ball valve for activating the engine compressor.  I'm assembling mine today but didn't include a photo of the finished product since you can view that on Part 2 of the video.  Cost was a bit less than $40 for the Kobalt parts shown, but that doesn't include any tax you may have in your state nor the 2 male quick connects I already had on hand on my hose and existing inflation chuck/guage - about $3 each - nor the cost of the chuck if you need it or the teflon sealing tape which most of us already have.  If David is correct, the tilt-lock chuck at Les Schwab's will be another $8-$10;  my local store had to order some in.  So depending on what parts you already may have, figure around $50.

The male quick connects come in more than one type, automotive and industrial, and perhaps others.  Since my particular port on the coach takes automotive, with the wide-flanged tip, that's what I had onhand and used here.  Supposedly the female Kobalt quick connects here are "universal" and will fit both main types, though I haven't yet tried in them the one industrial, narrow-flanged one I have.  Just be aware that there are different quick connects available, and if you have yet to put together at least a hose, it will have to have a male connector that fits your particular port.  Chances are it is the automotive type.

Click on the photo to enlarge for part numbers.

-Joel