Author Topic: Aqua Hot  (Read 45376 times)

Orman Claxton

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Re: Aqua Hot
« Reply #15 on: May 24, 2014, 04:36:27 AM »
Hi Jerry
Give me a call if you need to discuss the H/H you own ,will help you out,
Also your 2003 will use Ethylene Glycol antifreeze, Not the Propylene  Glycol
Good luck  
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KC Snellgrove

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Re: Aqua Hot
« Reply #16 on: May 26, 2014, 04:33:23 PM »
My 2005 Beaver Monterey has a HYDRO-HOT system that I love, but the exhaust outflow comes out the drivers side below the bedroom side window wafting diesel fumes  into the bed room. I want to have the exhaust system re routed to the back o the coach. Does anyone have information on whether or not this alteration is possible? thank-you.

KC Snellgrove
2002 Beaver Montery OLIVIA - JEAN

Jerald Cate

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Re: Aqua Hot
« Reply #17 on: May 26, 2014, 06:09:56 PM »
KC,

You might consider a Gen-Turi as an option, it's probably cheaper than re-routing your exhaust.  It's not a permanent installation but installed only when you need it.  I've only heard and read about the system I don't personally have it installed on my coach but will probably go this route if/when needed.  I've heard that some campgrounds won't let you run the Hydro-Hot without them.  I haven't experienced that problem yet but I can see where it would be an issue in close quarters.  If I get it I'll probably try and come up with some way to secure it without punching new holes in my coach.  Below is a link that will give you some information.

http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/gen-turi-generator-exhaust-system/14041

Joel Ashley

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Re: Aqua Hot
« Reply #18 on: May 26, 2014, 08:31:31 PM »
Our HHot exhausts mid-coach streetside and was a concern for us at first because of course there are windows all along that side.  The only time we (I) gripe, it turns out though, is when the unit cranks up while I'm outside doing something in the "water bay" - the exhaust port is directly beneath my face then.  I discovered that it wasn't difficult to manage window/exhaust experiences by simply being aware of wind direction and which windows we opened.  Even windows right over the exhaust port could be open if the wind was blowing right, but it could be a mistake to have a roof vent fan on, a situation which could depressurize the interior enough to actually draw fumes in through side openings.  On the rare occasion when fumes were directed inside, we simply shut the offending window and/or opened others.

The genset exhausts up front streetside and if winds are right that also requires window diligence.  But we find modern low sulfur, low particulate diesel to be less offensive than the diesel of some years ago, and even my odor sensitive wife can stand near that side of the coach and converse with someone with rare complaint when the genset or HHot is running.  If she hadn't noticed that fact we likely would've never considered trading our old gas Pace Arrow for a diesel.   That said, she would be the first to scream should any siphon in an open window, so window monitoring does take some priority.  Lee is actually more likely to make a stink  ;D  about the smell if I spill a little diesel during fueling or while servicing the HHot, so I've learned to be Jonny-on-the-spot cleaning up such things.

We were complained to once in a Banff Natl. Park campground around 1986 when our gas genset fumes annoyed campfire sitters behind us.  I wouldn't have run the genset except I'd been having trouble keeping the batteries up all day, and it was within the proper hours to run it.  Many Canadian parks, public and private, at least back then had campsites that were exceedingly tight together;  some you couldn't have put an awning out without hitting your neighbor's rig, and the wind however slight was such that the fumes would've reached someone nearby regardless.  That was the only time anyone ever griped, but the experience early in our RVing life made us acutely aware of not disturbing others' enjoyment and peace.  A Gen-Turi back then might have mitigated things a bit, by lifting fumes over everyone's head, and at least allowed me less fretting over whether the coach would crank over the next morning.

I too have considered the Gen-Turi option for the Beaver, but so far it's simply been easier and cheaper to micromanage window and vent use.  Like Bruce, I'm not crazy about punching more holes in my coach just for a device I may infrequently need to use, and is just one more thing I'll have to mount and remove at each campsite (presuming it isn't travelworthy).  Nevertheless, if you like fresh air while sleeping it is probably your best option.  In our case, I commonly don't leave the diesel-side HHot on at night anyway.  Hot water heats quickly from lukewarm in the morning and if it's cold enough outside to dictate the floor heat to be on at night, then a window ain't likely gonna be opened anyway, and if plugged in we use electric heat.

Joel

By the way, KC, is yours a 2002 or a 2005 Monterey?  Your post and your signature line are different.
Joel and Lee Rae Ashley
Clackamas, Oregon
36.9 ft. 2006 Monterey Ventura IV, aka"Monty Rae"
C9 400HP Cat

Lee Welbanks

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Re: Aqua Hot
« Reply #19 on: May 27, 2014, 12:41:39 AM »
Routing to the rear of the coach might cause too much restriction and back pressure on the burner. You would have to have a shop bent the pipe over your rearend and such. Something like the gen-turi looks like a better idea.

Orman Claxton

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Re: Aqua Hot
« Reply #20 on: May 27, 2014, 04:48:44 AM »
My 2005 Beaver Monterey has a HYDRO-HOT system that I love, but the exhaust outflow comes out the drivers side below the bedroom side window wafting diesel fumes  into the bed room. I want to have the exhaust system re routed to the back o the coach. Does anyone have information on whether or not this alteration is possible? thank-you.


There is several systems that has been rerouted  to a different location, IE: the Alpine coach had theirs routed out the coach rear from the factory.
I believe the factory says 2 90 deg is the limit, But.....

Marty and Suzie Schenck

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Re: Aqua Hot
« Reply #21 on: May 27, 2014, 02:53:31 PM »
You don't have to "punch" holes in your coach to attach a Gen-Turi. I have used suction cups for going on seven years with no problems. Remember, the exhaust may not bother you but in close and sometimes not so close quarters it can bother your neighbors.
Marty

Bill Sprague

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Re: Aqua Hot
« Reply #22 on: May 27, 2014, 03:09:20 PM »
I've used a Gen-Turi consistently for ten years.  It keeps the fumes away from both us and our neighbors.  I didn't punch holes.  I used small stainless eyelets and screws carefully inserted into small pilot holes from a marine supply for the hooks.

Perhaps it is fanatical, but I have two so I can dry camp without "gassing" neighbors.  My Quartzsite rally experiences have been significantly diminished due to the parking pattern putting a genset exhaust pointing directly at our door.  

David T. Richelderfer

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Re: Aqua Hot
« Reply #23 on: May 27, 2014, 04:15:50 PM »
Bill - I guess I don't understand.  You say you didn't punch holes, but then you followed by saying you inserted eyelets and screws into small pilot holes.  If you didn't punch holes, then you must be using existing holes.  I am not seeing any existing holes on my coach over the generator and AquaHot exhausts that would work.

I like the suction cup idea.  That would not be invasive and the cups would adhere to the coach siding, glass, etc.  All I would need is to find a four inch diameter flat area on both sides of the Gen-Turi riser.  Over time I suspect the suction cups could mark the siding, but those could be rubbed out periodically.

I purchased one Gen-Turi last year which I have not used yet.  One problem I quickly found is the exhausts from the generator and AquaHot are too large in diameter for the Gen-Turi adaptor to fit over.  I had a short tail pipe piece enlarged in diameter on one end to fit over the generator exhaust.  So I can now use the Gen-Turi on the generator exhaust, but not yet on the AquaHot exhaust.
« Last Edit: May 27, 2014, 04:54:32 PM by 9124 »
2004 Beaver Marquis Sapphire

I had a dream... then I lived it!

Bill Sprague

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Re: Aqua Hot
« Reply #24 on: May 27, 2014, 08:45:02 PM »
Quote from: David T. Richelderfer
Bill - I guess I don't understand.  You say you didn't punch holes, but then you followed by saying you inserted eyelets and screws into small pilot holes.  If you didn't punch holes, then you must be using existing holes.  I am not seeing any existing holes on my coach over the generator and AquaHot exhausts that would work.
I was attempting humor!  "Punching" a hole makes me think of jackhammer type solutions.  Instead, I gently and carefully precision drilled the right sized pilot holes for stainless steel, as in expensive yacht, type screws.  I used the so called "belt line" that hinges the bay doors.  

Sorry for the confusion.


Joel Ashley

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Re: Aqua Hot
« Reply #25 on: May 27, 2014, 08:56:55 PM »
That brings up one concern re. the Gen-Turi:  doesn't it obstruct easy access to bays immediately above the genset (electric bay) and hydronic (water bay) exhausts?

Joel
Joel and Lee Rae Ashley
Clackamas, Oregon
36.9 ft. 2006 Monterey Ventura IV, aka"Monty Rae"
C9 400HP Cat

David T. Richelderfer

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Re: Aqua Hot
« Reply #26 on: May 27, 2014, 09:41:32 PM »
Bill - I was thinking about making a joke - as I will now - about "small pilot holes" or perhaps the infamous "heated peter."

Joel - Yes, it would on my coach.  But the Gen-Turi is easily removed out of the way and easily put back into place.  As a side note, why couldn't the Gen-Turi vertical riser occasionally be laid on the ground pointing either forward or backward.  The exhaust pressure would tend to shoot the emissions away well past the end of the Gen-Turi tube.  Obviously, this idea wouldn't work in some situations.  But in a breeze, pointing the riser horizontally downwind may get the emissions well past the end of the coach and/or downwind past the last window.  Just a thought...
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David T. Richelderfer

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Re: Aqua Hot
« Reply #27 on: July 25, 2014, 06:31:42 PM »
Over the July 4th weekend I noticed my Aqua Hot was slowly dripping from an apparent tube poking out the bottom of the unit.  I checked the fluid level in the expansion tank and found it low, so I took off both the radiator cap and expansion tank cap.  The radiator cap came apart into pieces in my hands.  The radiator cap on the unit had a lever which I lifted prior to twisting and removing the cap.  When I lifted the lever it simply came out and separated from the cap.  I went to AutoZone on the afternoon of July 3rd and purchased a new 13 lb. radiator cap which did not have the lever on top.  I put in about five quarts of 50/50 ethylene glycol mix to fill the unit under the cap and half filled the expansion tank.  In this past (nearly) a month since the July 4th weekend I have added another total of ten quarts of 50/50 mix to fill the unit on two occasions.  It seems to drip only after it gets warm/hot and it appears to be dripping more fluid now than it was.  It stops dripping when the Aqua Hot is turned off and gets cooled down.  It leaks when either the electric element or the diesel burner is on and the unit gets hot.

Question:  Again, the new cap I purchased at AutoZone did not have the lever and now the Aqua Hot seems to be leaking more than before.  Is there a "special" cap, like with the lever, that is required?  Or is most any new 13 lb. radiator cap okay?
2004 Beaver Marquis Sapphire

I had a dream... then I lived it!

George H. Wall

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Re: Aqua Hot
« Reply #28 on: July 25, 2014, 07:08:03 PM »
Check your plastic line from the main tank to the expansion tank. These lines degrade quickly and must be replaced as they leak constantly.   Henry

Edward Buker

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Re: Aqua Hot
« Reply #29 on: July 25, 2014, 07:16:33 PM »
David,

If the fluid is actually coming out of the tube that is a drain valve that is prone to leak. I have replaced mine with a brass ball valve which solved that problem. Orman will probably have parts that would work for that. If it is coming down the outside of the tube or the exit hole itself then there are other leak sources.

The cap although new should be rechecked and be sure the brass face of the cap receiver is clean. I use a slight amount of plumbers grease on that interface. The brass cap receiver can have a poor solder joint where it attaches to the stand pipe (it is a poor design and mine leaked there) and there is a fix for that. The lever on the cap is not required, it is just a pressure relief for checking the fluid.

Also check closely if the tube from the overflow tank is in tact, a small crack in that is common near the cap. A silicone hose is better there if you do replace that.  I have replaced my cap with a 7lb version, that may help a little but it is still liquid under pressure and this type fluid wets well and will find a leak point if it can.

I also had a cracked fitting that leaked where one of the plastic zone pipes came into the manifold on the top. I point all these out so you can go on the hunt and see if your leak is a semi-easy fix. Beyond these leak points there are others that are more serious that Orman can describe and possibly repair. Hope this helps,

Later Ed