SMC Leveling Jack Replacment

[Marty and Suzie Schenck]

Ed,
      I just have the standard SMC hydraulic leveling no air. To level, turn on system, after it thinks press auto or semi. I press auto and it dumps the air then the rams do their work on the axles. When BCS repaired my system (two wires and two hoses reversed) they said always start it up and air the system and then raise the leveling jacks. Since then (2008)  I have had no problems with that system (fingers crossed LOL).
Marty

[Marty and Suzie Schenck]

George,
            When I first bought it the previous owner said the leveling system had been diagnosed with a bad hydraulic manifold witch his warranty had ordered but it was on back order. He said he would forward it to me and he did. When I installed it, it still had the same problem, timed out. I put the old one back on and again same problem. I took it to BCS and in three hours it was fixed, no parts needed. I now am in possession of a $1300. manifold I have no use for. Sooooo, if anyone ever does need a manifold I got one and I will sell it at a much reduced price.
Marty

[Edward Buker]

Marty,

Got it, thanks. FYI...I was told by BCS that the auto air bleed cycle was not long enough and to manually bleed off most of the air with the air dump button before starting the auto leveling cycle with the SMC pad.

Later Ed

[LaMonte Monnell]

I just returned from the HWH factory and had my SMC hydraulic system removed and an air leveling system installed.

I have two good front jacks, and the two rear are capped and still on the RV. HWH could not get the rear jacks removed without the rear wheels removed and had no way to remove at the factory.

I have one that is good and one leaking rear jack.

BCS has two front jacks for $799 each plus shipping costs... Also I have a good control box I kept.......

[Les Brandt]

I just returned from the HWH factory and had my SMC hydraulic system removed and an air leveling system installed.

I have two good front jacks, and the two rear are capped and still on the RV. HWH could not get the rear jacks removed without the rear wheels removed and had no way to remove at the factory.

I have one that is good and one leaking rear jack.

BCS has two front jacks for $799 each plus shipping costs... Also I have a good control box I kept.......

I have a front right that won't fully retract. What are you asking for yours if you want to sell it?

[Les Brandt]

What would cause one of the jacks not to retract as on my front right?

My sensors are also corroded. Jacks were not up and the light showed "All Up".

[Gerald Farris]

Les,
I do not have much experience on the SMC jack system since both of my Beavers came with HWH jacks, but a bent shaft will cause a jack to bind when retracting. On the question about the indicator light, there are three possible types of indicator switches. They could use either a mechanical contact switch (push button), a magnetic proximity sensor (like most HWH systems), or a pressure sensor. If either of the first two are used, a jack with a bent shaft should not indicate "fully retracted" until it is fully retracted, but if a pressure sensor is used, the jack will show a "fully retracted" indication if the jack binds from the bent shaft before full retraction.

If the indicator works properly when the jacks are extended, then you either have pressure switches or the one jack has an inoperative sensor. You will need to do some trouble shooting to determine exactly what your problem is.

Gerald  

[Karl Welhart]

Les,

The simplest cause would be a stuck switch on the jack.  Each jack has a limit switch that makes a closed circuit when the jack pad makes contact with that switch.  The "all-up" light comes on when all 4 switches are closed.  This would indicate to me that one or more switches may be stuck.  If you have looked at that area of the jack you can clearly see that getting stuck is very highly possible.  If you think this may be your problem just spray with brake cleaner and work the switch with your hand.

A bent shaft is possible but unlikely because the switch would be in the open position and the "all-up" light would not be on.  The other problem could be that someone created the "all-up" light to be on all the time so the buzzer would not keep buzzing going down the road.  This could indicate that the reservoir is not full enough to retract all the jacks.  If your jacks are working fine to level your coach, then this would not be the problem.

Karl

[Les Brandt]

Thanks all.

I've got some checking to do, but I've been warned by my mechanic not to use the levelers till I return from holidays. The last thing I need is to be trapped somewhere with a Jack down. I guess I'm blocking it this trip. It shouldn't be too bad as 2 of the 3 resorts we are going to claim they have level pads.

I really appreciate everyone's help here! I've learned a lot about our coach already. At the rate things are screwing up, it looks like I have a lot more learning ahead of me! LOL

[Les Brandt]

Is there a way I can use my air bag system to at least level front or back by dumping air in either quadrant?
Can this be done with the valves in the service bay?

[Gerald Farris]

Les,
Unless you have an air leveling system, you do not have the capability to use the suspension to level the coach without getting under the coach, and that can be very dangerous. So the answer to the first question is no.

The answer to the second question is also no, because the bleeder valves at the rear of the coach only release air from the tanks and not the suspension.

Gerald

[Les Brandt]

What would the 4 valves be for on the right side then?

[Edward Buker]

Those are air tank drains. Open for about 10 seconds each once a month and verify no water is present. Slight mist is a possibility but no significant water if your motorhome has a receiver dryer that purges moisture automatically. If it does not have a dryer then drain at the end of a driving day. If you typically do not get moisture then extend the drain interval to match when you would accumulate moisture.

Later Ed