Author Topic: Black Water Tank Valve  (Read 17244 times)

Vern Bauch

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Re: Black Water Tank Valve
« Reply #15 on: April 17, 2016, 03:02:41 PM »
My drain master valves have been problem from day one.  I would like to install a manual valve in the area where the drain master is installed horizontally. Will they fit and whatbrand or replacement valve do you recommend

Edward Buker

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Re: Black Water Tank Valve
« Reply #16 on: April 17, 2016, 05:16:31 PM »
I also had trouble with the blackwater power valve and discussed it with the manufacturer. They have improved the valves and have made a change to the mounting procedure. The shaft of the valve has to be mounted now so it is 90 degrees to the side or up and not down. Many of the original valves were mounted with the drive down and that accumulated debris that bound it. I have had no problems with the new valve mounted correctly in the last 4 years. I think a manual valve is a good idea if it not too much of a pain to make work. I also would not have a problem with a powered one given my experience since the replacement.

Later Ed

 

Dick Simonis

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Re: Black Water Tank Valve
« Reply #17 on: April 17, 2016, 05:33:09 PM »
My valves have been performing flawless since we bought the coach....until our last outing when I got an pleasant surprise.  Went to dump the tanks before leaving the campground and surprise...the gray tank wouldn't open.  After a bit of fiddling and cycling the switch it finally opened and and all was well but it does have me concerned.  The tank was almost completely full and I'm wondering it was a bit sticky and the head pressure pushed the held the gate against the seal.  I thought I could hear a slight click from the valve when it was trying to open.

I might try emptying the tank, cap the outlet, and pour some cooking oil down a sink drain.  If I did this and than cycle the valve a few time perhaps that would help.  If it still causes problems I may have BCS replace both valves when I stop in for my annual visit in June.

Steve Huber Co-Admin

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Re: Black Water Tank Valve
« Reply #18 on: April 17, 2016, 07:58:45 PM »
One "gotacha" to be aware of with electric driven valves. I had mine replaced under warrantee as one was leaking. Found out the hard way that the shop had reversed the switch wiring by mistake. What a MESS! Should have checked out the repair.....
Steve
Steve
2015-          07 Contessa Bayshore C9,  400 hp
2013-2015: 00 Marquis Tourmaline, C12, 425 hp
2005-2013: 01 Contessa Naples, 3126B, 330 hp

David T. Richelderfer

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Re: Black Water Tank Valve
« Reply #19 on: April 17, 2016, 09:40:17 PM »
We had problems with opening and closing both the black and grey electric valves the first year after purchasing the coach in 2012.  After reading here on the forum about putting cooking oil down the toilet and sink we have had few problems.  We usually put a half cup of oil into both tanks every few months... always after emptying the tanks so the oil can slosh around on the bottom of the tanks on the subsequent leg of the trip.  For three years (so far) no more serious problems.
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Keith Moffett

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Re: Black Water Tank Valve
« Reply #20 on: April 18, 2016, 04:34:01 AM »
We have had both manual and electric valves get stuck.  Thank God we have had no trouble with our electric valves since they were cleaned with pine sol and calgon bath oil beads.  In addition to improved valve operation, the cleaning brought the sensors into line with where I felt they should be.  I had thought to replace the sensors but it is not necessary now.
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Lee Welbanks

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Re: Black Water Tank Valve
« Reply #21 on: April 18, 2016, 04:42:44 AM »
On my 06 PT I have always had problems with the valves not opening or closing, last winter I took both out and cleaned and lubed them real good. First trip of the year and the pos would not open so I manually opened the gray tank with the allen wrench.
I decided to run a test, hooked the Fluke to the lead wires at the valves and hit the button. Well no wonder 7.5-8 volts made up a long set of jumper wires with clips on the ends, connected to the house battery's and then tried to see if the valves would cycle. Worked just fine open and closed about 10 times.
On other side where the switches are opened the access door and took a good look at the wiring, what a joke comes from the 14g feed wire to a about 10' of 20g wire to the switches, cut out that wire and unsoldered them from the switches and replaced with about a foot of 14g wire.
Now they open and close like they are supposed to, so before you go to the expense of new valves you need to check the wiring and see just how much power to getting to the valve motors.
Also I ohm'ed out the switches and they had pretty high resistance through, took the fuses out and cycled the switched back and forth until they actually cleared up, now resistance through them is around 1-2 ohm's.

Michael Hannan

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Re: Black Water Tank Valve
« Reply #22 on: April 18, 2016, 08:23:54 AM »
I've had problems with both valves.  I called the Drain Master folks and got help from them.  They said that the most common problem is from tightening the bolts too tight thus squeezing the door and making it difficult to move.  Their recommendation for tightening the bolts is to put them in finger tight and then tighten them with a wrench 1 1/2 turns only.  This worked for me. It also helps to once in awhile when the tank is empty, pour a bottle of vegetable oil in so that it can soak the door and gate helping it to slide easier.  Hope this helps.

MJ
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