Bay Door Gas Springs

[Dick Simonis]

Since we left a few days ago I've be having an issue with the front bay door top latch not easily unlatching.  Now here in Idaho Falls it seems to be really stuck and it looks like the easiest way to get it unlocked will be to remove the catch....not a big deal but, of course, my toolbox is in the bay that won't open.  Now none of this is a big deal except I may have damaged the handle/latch in my efforts to get it open.

Some where in the back of my mind I seem to recall being told not to use the handle to open the door but to unlatch than reach down and pull on the bottom that is inconvenient so I've just been pulling it up with the handle.  I believe the gas struts were replaced when we bought the coach but that does lead me to my question.

Right now the gas struts are rated for 60 lbs but I'm thinking about replacing them with 90 lb struts.  I would seem that with heavier struts I could release pull the handle and the door would just drift open on it's own and than push it down to close rather than having to use the handle to keep the door from slamming.

Am I one the right track or am I missing something.

Dick

[Edward Buker]

Dick,

I run 60lbs versions on my bay lift doors. I use Suspa brand and have found that they are more linear in the forces over the travel range then some of the other brands and that can make a big difference. That translates into my doors needing some amount of force to lower until they are at the midpoint of travel and then you slow them some to close. That means the mid point of travel is the neutral point which I think is about right. If you go to 90lbs they may lift on their own but you then have to supply more force to bring them down over the whole travel range. This is a good source..

http://www.amazon.com/SUSPA-Spring-Strut-Shock-C16-08260/dp/B00FRR00HY?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00

You could give it a try and see if you like it better. It looks like the strut structure is well built enough to handle the extra force on these doors but I would not up the pressure much on the other style hinged doors. I always lower and then push mine shut to latch and avoid the slam. Seems less stressful on the latches.

Later Ed

[Dick Simonis]

Well, I got the offending door open by loosen the latch plate screws...so no problem there.  I double checked the struts and found a bit of mis-match between the doors.  The rear door has 80 lb springs and at just over the half way open it will slowly open by itself.  The other two are 60 lbs springs and at 1/2 they will start to drop.  In addition all doors have 40 lb upper struts.  When I get to bend in a couple of weeks I'm going to ask Shawn about this a see what he says but under any condition I have to say the 80 lb springs look real good and 90 lb may not be unreasonable.

Also need to find out the purpose of the upper strut.  I think I know but I'm not sure.

[Steve Huber Co-Admin]

Dick,
I found it wasn't the lifting of the door by the latch handle that caused the no open problem. Rather it was the opening of the latch. If the nut that holds the latch assy to the door is at all loose, the unlatching can cause the complete assy to move slightly upward. It doesn't take much to cause a mis-alignment that prevents the latch from activating the bars that hold the door closed. If the problem door is one of the two storage bays on the curb side, suggest you open the working one and check the faulty one out in the closed position. You should be able to see the misalignment, adjust the latch assy, and tighten the nut.
Steve

[Edward Buker]

Dick,

One good thing is if you like the lift action of a 80 or 90 lb lift shock they will have a longer working life given they all lose some pressure over time. I upped my rear engine hatch air spring lbs from what it had in it and I liked the result.

Later Ed

[Dick Simonis]

I just ordered a pair of 90 lb springs and they they should be here Thursday.  With a bit of luck I'll have then installed on one door before we leave Idaho Falls.

http://www.amazon.com/JR-Products-GSNI-2300-90-Gas-Spring/dp/B002UC6WS0/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1465221623&sr=1-1&keywords=GSNI-2300-90

Are there any tricks to replacing the lift struts??

[Jerry Emert]

A good friend of mine put heavier gas springs on his coach than was called for and after a few months they bent the metal attachment points.  Just something to watch for.  I think my coach has 80# springs.
Jerry

[Fred Brooks]

    Hi Dick,
   I went down the road you are on and from my experience the 80 lb really hurt my back. As you know I had L4 and L5 fused via some metal brackets and screws. Here is the issue, When you open the door you are compressing the struts slightly "over center" until they can start to extend and assist in the lift of the door. I went back to 60lb struts and worked just fine. BTW the upper struts just keep the door in position so it won't crash the coach wall when opening or closing. Enjoy your journey as you head north. Regards, Fred

[Stan Simpson]

Dick,

I changed all of my struts a couple of years ago. I found the 60# are good for bays that are not used regularly. For those, like the main storage, and water bays, I changed to 80#. They stay up or out when I'm using them. I have 90# in the two doors that come out with the streetside living room slide. They are difficult to put down, and when they get to the latch, I have to put my 225 lbs in to the door to get it to close and latch.

[Robert S Sedlacek]

I replace the 80's when needed and pass the old 80's onto the smaller doors

[Rick Vyncke]

We replaced some of the struts and they are so strong that they almost launch us when we open the bay doors.  Be careful not to get struts that are too strong or you'll replace one problem with another.