Author Topic: Supplemental braking  (Read 8615 times)

John Fearnow

  • Guest
Supplemental braking
« on: September 13, 2010, 01:53:30 AM »
I'm thinking I should have braking for the towed Honda CR-V.  My 2002 Pat-thunder came to me with the Roadmaster "brakemaster" coach-side equipment installed.  I am therefore considering getting the brakemaster with brakeaway kit for the car.  This system works off the coach's air brakes.  Since the coach equipment is already installed I should save that installation charge.  The car equipment is available on the internet for reasonable cost but I'll probably have to have someone install it.  

I am also looking at the roadmaster "evenbrake."  This is the unit that runs off the car battery with a radio monitor in the coach.  the advantage over the brakemaster would be that if I get a new towed car (which I am considering) I can use the evenbrake in the new car.  I have heard some comments that communication between the coach monitor and the evenbrake unit in the car is not reliable.  Also I experience a dead battery in my Honda already if we travel for several days in succession and I don't drive it.  I assume powering the evenbrake off the car battery would make this situation worse.  The evenbrake is also more expensive than the brakemaster but I think I could handle installation myself which might result in the overall cost being close to the brakemaster .

Any comments on experiences with these systems and opinions on what is the best way for me to go are welcomed.

thanks
John Fearnow
Patriot-Thunder 2002 (C-12)
Tucson

« Last Edit: October 02, 2010, 04:52:00 AM by 14 »

Richard And Babs Ames

  • Guest
Re: Supplemental braking
« Reply #1 on: September 13, 2010, 01:43:44 PM »
We tried a "Box Brake"(evenbrake type) and found the set up to be a real chore with the seat adjustment requirement and even getting it in and out of the car. Since it worked off inertia it would activate too much  or not work at all depending on adjustment.

We returned it to Camping World and replaced it with the Brakemaster that you are plumbed for and found it easier to install and remove with no fine tuning required and it is only applied when your MH brakes are applied. Your toad only set up should only cost about half what the even brake costs.  We were quoted $350 for a second vehicle but was a few years ago and did not include the air piston you attach to the brake pedal.

If we were to do it again we would go with the SMI system like my son has. You just flip a switch to activate it.

Bill Sprague

  • Guest
Re: Supplemental braking
« Reply #2 on: September 14, 2010, 03:08:14 PM »
I have the Roadmaster Brakemaster on a Ford Edge.  Its simple, it works, is easy to hook up and the car brake pedal is applied when the coach air-brakes are applied.  I have no idea if it pushes the brake pedal too hard, too soft or just right.  The Breakaway is complicated and I have no idea if it would really work in real breakaway situation.  

Joel Ashley

  • BAC Member
  • *
  • Posts: 2362
  • Thanked: 807 times
  • OSU Class of '73, Oregon Native. RVing 39 years
Re: Supplemental braking
« Reply #3 on: September 14, 2010, 11:32:57 PM »
Our Brakemaster is great.  I wouldn't go with any other.  If you get a new toad, there is no reason the unit can't be transferred over from the old car.  Ideally, have Roadmaster in Vancouver do it for you if you can get both cars there.

Beaver Coach Sales checked the breakaway on our setup right after installation, and it worked as it should.

The only hassle I had was with Camping World's configuration of the plug-in ports on the front of the car.  About a year after initial installation I took the car to Roadmaster headquarters and they changed the configuration without charge for parts or labor.  At the same time they tweaked the car's hitch adapters a bit to improve Camping World's installation there also.  Then a couple of years ago I questioned the toad's tire wear, related to a slight off-level hitch line.  A trip with both the coach and the toad to Roadmaster's new Vancouver, WA, building, and they reconfigured the hitch setup.  Great outfit.

-Joel
Joel and Lee Rae Ashley
Clackamas, Oregon
36.9 ft. 2006 Monterey Ventura IV, aka"Monty Rae"
C9 400HP Cat

John Fearnow

  • Guest
Re: Supplemental braking
« Reply #4 on: September 15, 2010, 09:04:10 PM »
Thanks for the advice.  I've found a brakemaster on Craigs list from a guy that has only the toad parts of the system.  So it will match up with what I already have in the coach.  He doesn't have the brakeaway unit but I'll consider that later.

John :)
« Last Edit: September 16, 2010, 02:51:03 AM by 14 »

Larry and Heidi Lee

  • Guest
Re: Supplemental braking
« Reply #5 on: September 17, 2010, 05:11:10 AM »
I have used the "Roadmaster" even brake electric compressor pneumatic system while towing my 6000lb. truck behind my 34' Monterey. It was a hassle moving that bulky box in and out of the vehicle and storing it away every time I disconnected. Talk about a pain in the you know what. A friend of mine is a mechanical engineer and said with the exhaust brake on these Beavers I dont need it. So.....I left it at home and recently drove to Lake Tahoe and back down 10-15% grades (Kingsbury grade too!) and had no problem keeping the rig in control with the exhaust brake. I can't feel any difference and it sure makes my life easier. Before you throw away $600-$1000 on a braking system I suggest towing your vehicle on a test run first. You'll save yourself a lot of hassle. Maybe those gassers need supplemental braking but I don't miss it.
If I was towing a CRV I wouldnt bother.

LarryNCarolynShirk

  • Guest
Re: Supplemental braking
« Reply #6 on: September 17, 2010, 06:28:14 AM »
Before making a final decision on ditching the supplemental breaking systems, you may want to check the laws of the areas through which you travel.  Some states and Canadian provinces require them for trailers (towed vehicles) exceeding a specific weight, like 1500 pounds.  

I like the Unified Tow Break by U. S Gear.  There is only one umbilical between vehicles with all the light and control wires plus the breakaway cable.  Some of the newer Beavers are pre wired for this system.  I have used this system for nine years and moved it from coach to coach and toad to toad when I traded.

Larry

Marty and Suzie Schenck

  • Guest
Re: Supplemental braking
« Reply #7 on: September 17, 2010, 08:22:33 PM »
Larry and Heidi Lee, Maybe you won't feel so lazy about moving that little box when your 6000 pound toad breaks loose and rear ends your coach or heaven forbid hits oncoming traffic. The supplemental brakes are not there just to make you feel better, they are for safety. Don't say it won't happen, I saw one just last year where the hitch broke off of the frame. By the way, there was a recall on 97-2000 Beaver trailer hitches with bad welds. Sorry for the rant but it just irks me when people take safety so lightly. Marty

Richard And Babs Ames

  • Guest
Re: Supplemental braking
« Reply #8 on: September 17, 2010, 08:36:55 PM »
The law normally states trailers and is a car a trailer as when towed is still being debated. I personally agree with  Marty and Suzie. Any thing towed over 1500lbs should have a breakaway device.

I talked to a gentleman at Ring Power in Tampa that had lost his toad and did not know it for 25 plus miles. The hitch had come off his motor home and he found had been attached by two 1/2 inch bolts. The safety cables attached to the hitch also.

Bottom line is check your hitch and toad attachment points and use a brake.

Joel Ashley

  • BAC Member
  • *
  • Posts: 2362
  • Thanked: 807 times
  • OSU Class of '73, Oregon Native. RVing 39 years
Re: Supplemental braking
« Reply #9 on: September 18, 2010, 02:21:44 AM »
Wow.  Going without supplemental breaking on your toad?  Not a good idea.  You not only minimize the safety level to yourself, but to the rest of us on the road with you.  

The Canadian Rocky Mountain provinces were among the first to beef up trailer towing laws for RVers, so good luck nowdays even getting through customs going North, esp. B.C. and Alberta.  Documentation that I have that shows state and provincial trailer laws is 5 years old, but it's a good bet they're even more strict now.  Back then, all states had laws applicable to motor home toads except Missouri and Oregon.  Trailer weights allowed in other states ranged from 1500 lbs to 5000 lbs, and up to 10,000 lbs in Massachusetts, with the average being 3000 lbs.  Any weight over a state's limit required supplemental braking on the trailer.

That said, those laws were implemented for good reason.  One of the causes of the initial Canadian law changes was in B.C. when a toad broke loose from a motor home and careened through a park and playground.  Supplemental braking with a breakaway device might have prevented the consequences.  Apart from being unlawful in most states, assuming a toad is at least 3000 lbs., the thing is, even if it was lawful to have no auxilliary brake or breakaway, why on earth would you take such a chance;  just because it takes some effort to set up and break down the device?  As far as my and my family's lives and wellfare go, that's just not good enough if you're out there on the road with us!

Larry, it takes me all of 30 seconds to plug in the breakaway cord and air chuck between the coach and toad, and maybe 1 minute to fasten my Brakemaster cylinder in place, and just as long to remove them.  90 seconds of effort to insure safe travel for everyone - how could you think that was too much trouble?  The Brakemaster cylinder is far easier to store than an EvenBrake or BrakeBuddy style of system.  Your mechanical engineer friend did you (and us on the road with you) no favors.  Anything over 1500 lbs in California requires brakes.  What else he didn't tell you is the obvious - regardless how strong your exhaust brake is, that added weight behind you is going to greatly extend your stopping distance over the coach alone;  that would not be the case if your 6000 lb truck had its own braking ability.  If you had a chargeable accident in any way attributable to the towing of your truck, your liability would be elevated given you broke the law as well.  The other side's attorney would have a field day.  Especially if he could show you were negligent or that a brake device and/or breakaway could have prevented damage.  Are you sure your insurance covers you if your vehicle configuration isn't legal?  

It's not worth it.  Go get a Brakemaster, or a Unified Tow Brake, which your coach is already wired for.

-Joel


 Below is an excerpt from FMCA's 2010 Dinghy Towing Guide:

Safety is the most important issue for motorhomers
when they operate their coaches. That’s why, for safety’s
sake, every motorhome owner who tows a vehicle four
wheels down should consider using an auxiliary braking
system. Many motorhome, chassis, and automobile
manufacturers recommend that supplemental brakes
be used on any towed vehicle. Check your motorhome’s
owners manual and you likely will find requirements
and information regarding the use of auxiliary brakes.
A question that is often asked concerning supplemental
brakes involves the legal ramifications of not using
one. Not all jurisdictions mandate supplemental brakes
on towed vehicles, but when it comes to four-wheelsdown
towing, safety should be more important than
whether you are likely to receive a traffic citation. Your
motorhome’s brakes were designed to stop the weight of
the coach. Add several thousand pounds of towed vehicle
weight to the equation, and the motorhome’s braking
system is being asked to do more than it was intended.
The extra weight can reduce the effectiveness of the
brakes in emergency stopping situations, as well as lead
to premature — and potentially costly — wear on the
motorhome’s braking system.
A supplemental brake provides stopping assistance to
the tandem, allowing the towed vehicle’s brakes to slow
the vehicle and reduce the weight inertia that’s pushing
forward against the rear of the motorhome. Most of us
have never heard anyone say that the brakes on their
motorhome stop it too quickly. Nevertheless, many of
us have seen what happens when brakes don’t work
quickly enough.
« Last Edit: September 18, 2010, 04:31:07 AM by 77 »
Joel and Lee Rae Ashley
Clackamas, Oregon
36.9 ft. 2006 Monterey Ventura IV, aka"Monty Rae"
C9 400HP Cat

marty christensen

  • Guest
Re: Supplemental braking
« Reply #10 on: September 18, 2010, 04:31:34 PM »
We have the US Gear system on our coach which was transferred from our Safari coach.  The high points of this this system that sold us was:
1-no hook up of any kind inside the tow car
2-no visible equipment inside the tow car
3-the tow car brakes on its own braking system
4-the tow cars battery is charged through the coaches electrical system when connected
5-there is an adjustable braking control for the tow car on the dash of the coach

The only negative I found to this system is that it cost more to install than some others.

My tow bar is a Roadmaster "Sterling" which supports 6000lbs (more than enough for our Tahoe) and stores its cables and wires on the bar so nothing has to be removed and stored in the basement.  We just disconnect, fold the bar up and put the cover on.

Marty Christensen
08 Contessa C9

Tim Bentley Co-Admin

  • Guest
Re: Supplemental braking
« Reply #11 on: September 20, 2010, 06:11:16 PM »
Here is another vote for the Unified Tow Break by U. S Gear.  We have had ours for over 10 years of trouble free service.  Installed it myself and have moved it to two different vehicles.  When we plug in our lights it is ready to go.  Hooking up the breaking system takes 0 seconds.

Larry and Heidi Lee

  • Guest
Re: Supplemental braking
« Reply #12 on: September 21, 2010, 07:38:51 PM »
I appreciate everyone reminding me about the travel, safety and legal aspects regarding a braking system. I really like the convenience and features of the unified tow braking system and will put one on order. http://www.usgear.cc/utb_video.htm

« Last Edit: September 21, 2010, 07:51:43 PM by 294 »