Author Topic: Winter travel  (Read 6078 times)

jeffprupis

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Winter travel
« on: November 06, 2016, 10:30:53 PM »
We've been FTing for a little over two month and having a blast. Now that we're headed into winter was wondering what tips are out there to prepare for colder weather. While we plan to hang out in the southwest, we could easily hit sub-freezing temps. What prep steps do you take in winter while LIVING in your RV? Also, how would I know if my bays are heated? Thanks all.

Jeff P
'05 Beaver Monterey 400HP C9
'06 Jeep Liberty

Joel Ashley

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Re: Winter travel
« Reply #1 on: November 07, 2016, 07:57:24 AM »
Look in your gray/black tank bay (curbside in front of rear tires, with door latches underneath), and on the ceiling you should see a heat exchanger.  On ours, its bay temp sensor probe is mounted on a black plywood square frame center front on the bay floor, along with an Aladdin module.  As long as the HydroHot is on, the exchanger kicks on at a bay temperature around 43 degrees or so. 

The water pump mounts in a plastic housing that extends into that bay, but is accessible via a panel in the adjoining bay's wall.  Heat can flow into the housing, over to the back of the water bay manifold, and over the adjoining bay wall, but the inverter on the main bay's ceiling adds a little heat there also, and the HHot unit itself in the frontmost bay warms the water tank next to it.  We have bays on the streetside that are unheated, and the tiny bay behind the rear tires, so I'm careful what's in there in cold weather.

Don't always depend on the HHot electric side only, as if there's a power outage while you're asleep or away you risk a bay freeze up.  Usually it's okay as long as outside temps don't stay low for long periods, and warm the next morning, but keep the diesel side on anyway during cold snaps.

Inside we supplement with a small electric heater toward the back so the noisy front exchangers don't run as much while we're conversing or watching TV.  Overnight it's set up front on low.  It uses electricity we have usually already paid for with park fees, and cuts down the diesel HHot use.  Just be mindful of your total amp use so you don't trip breakers when some other device kicks on.

We also occasionally use, in very cold weather, a "wool" covered thick foam square as an insulator that presses up into the kitchen Fantastic Fan vent port, especially overnight.  We don't use it in the bathroom fan and may keep that vent cracked a bit together with slightly cracked window elsewhere to help prevent frosting from built-up humidity.  We don't need to do that often, though, thanks to the double-pane windows and defroster fans over the windshield.  We often trap a large, folding, reflective silver windshield cover between the windshield and its lowered electric sunvisors, especially during sub-freezing overnights.  In addition to the regular privacy curtain, it offers some insulating benefit.  In summer it helps reflect solar heat out.

Of course you don't want to leave a water hose hooked up outside;  just use your tank's supply and refill it as needed.  If necessary you can get hoses that are heated, but my agenda doesn't hold value in the cost.  Be aware that if it snows, the stuff can build up on slideout awnings and add to the material's bellying problems.  If it thaws incompletely during the day, then freezes overnight, you'll have a layer of ice too.  This can jam the material upon slideout retraction and cause problems, including stressing mechanisms and motors/pumps.  I try to keep snow swept off, but walking on a slick roof is not for the weak of heart;  it's safer with a broom and a folding ladder against the slideout.  Ice is not so easy to get off.  Once when heavy snow was forecast, we kept the slides in until it quit.

Joel
« Last Edit: November 07, 2016, 08:05:35 AM by Joel Ashley »
Joel and Lee Rae Ashley
Clackamas, Oregon
36.9 ft. 2006 Monterey Ventura IV, aka"Monty Rae"
C9 400HP Cat

jeffprupis

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Re: Winter travel
« Reply #2 on: November 07, 2016, 02:15:09 PM »
Thanks very much Joel and Lee Rae Ashley that was VERY helpful. I do believe we have heated bays.  As soon as it stops raining will check. Love our Beaver!

Gerald Farris

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Re: Winter travel
« Reply #3 on: November 07, 2016, 02:32:34 PM »
Jeff,
All 2005 Monterey coaches have heated bays in the areas where the water and sewer systems are located, and you will not notice any difference in living in your coach in the Southwest between summer and winter as long as you keep the AquaHot running. Some of the small exterior storage bays are not heated like Joel mentioned, so just do not store anything that is freeze sensitive in those bays.

Gerald

Joel Ashley

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Re: Winter travel
« Reply #4 on: November 07, 2016, 10:09:59 PM »
Jeff, just in case you've never been in there, the waste tank bay is as I said is forward of the curbside rear wheels.  It does not have a recessed latch handle like the other bays, and I mention this for the sake of other owners new to their coaches;  the bay looks like just a body panel, and many were never made aware it existed.  As new owners come onboard here, it serves them that we repeat this every so often, and it's been awhile.

Underneath the panel and along its edge are two swing latches.  It's best to get down near the ground where you can most easily see them and how they work.  With one finger, pull the tab in the swing-down lever toward you a smidge so it releases the lever, and press the lever down with your thumb.  This takes tension off the arm that grabs the door edge, so you can "ungrab" it and let it swing down out of the way.  With both latches released, the bay door/panel swings up and is held there like other bay doors by springed struts.   

To relatch, close the door, swing the grab hook back up, stretch it out, and engage the door edge.  Swing the lever up so it the hook arm pulls the door snugly back into the coach body and the tab inserts itself through the slot in the lever to lock it with tension.

If the door isn't snugly tensioned, you can use a small wrench or adjustable pliers to reposition the nut on the swing arm accordingly.  If it's hard to engage the tab in the lever, move the nut the other way a bit;  you don't want it too loose or it could let go of the door edge by way of a bump on the road.  But it shouldn't be a struggle, either, when trying to disengage the hook.

As an aside, I had our roofer build a swing-down eave on our garage this summer so it was less stressful getting the coach in and out of its sideyard pad.  The extra foot of clearance is wonderful.  But a glitch in the design hampered my folding the eave back up.  Part of the problem is the gate latches between the folded section and the rafter tails that hold the thing up.  Seasonal humidity changes affect their alignment, and it's a serious problem - folding it down is one thing, folding it back up and holding it while trying to engage formerly but no longer aligned latches is another.

Brother suggested replacing the gate latches with swing latches like is on the "hidden" bay door.  That will be an improvement, because the nut on the latch arm means I can adjust the reach and compensate for changes in ambient humidity and any swelling of rafter tails.  The alignment won't be so critical.  Swing latches seem complicated, but they certainly have usefulness in certain applications.

-Joel
Joel and Lee Rae Ashley
Clackamas, Oregon
36.9 ft. 2006 Monterey Ventura IV, aka"Monty Rae"
C9 400HP Cat

Jim Edwards

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Re: Winter travel
« Reply #5 on: November 11, 2016, 02:37:09 PM »
Hi Just a note. I went looking around a bit in the bays of my 05 Monterey and noticed a lack of insulation and exposure to the outside on the passenger side of the coach. Two areas in particular were exposed to the outside. One being the slide mechanisms themselves that intrude from both sided into the bay and the second being the sheet metal guard that the passenger slide recesses into. I also plugged up a 3/8 " gap between the end of the sheet metal box and the frame rail. I used spray adhesive, Aluminum tape, sheet aluminum and roll of Reflectix 16 in. x 25 ft. Double Reflective Insulation. One roll was enough to put 2 layers of the Reflectix over the offending areas. As for the slide mechanisms I covered the gap in them with a 12 gage aluminum sheet affixing them with aluminum tape.
As for the hydro hot cabinet I found the hose entrance at the top rear had been poorly foamed at the factory and had gaping holes allowing heat to escape as well as exposed cold and hot water lines between the hydro hot cabinet and the heated bay. I insulated these as well. 

This has seemed to have significantly reduced the cycling of my hydro hot in cold weather.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Reflectix-16-in-x-25-ft-Double-Reflective-Insulation-with-Staple-Tab-ST16025/100012574

Best Jim
Jim Edwards
2005 Monterey Laguna III, 40 ft Cat C9
2007 Country Coach Affinity 45 ft Cummins 600
15 Grand Cherokee