Pro Sine Warning light/beep?

[Jim Chambers]

My 2001 Patriot has been garage parked without shorepower for several weeks. Yesterday I went in and turned on the ceiling lights and I heard a beeping. When I turned off the lights it stopped. Today the beeper began again with no apparent cause. This time I noted that it was coming from the Pro Sine control panel and the red warning light was flashing. I pushed the reset button and the beep stopped but the warning light continued to flash. What does this all mean?

[LarryNCarolynShirk]

Hi Jim,

Go to the Xantrex website and search the archived manual list for your model of ProSine.  This is from my model 2500.

Error Code Displays and What They Mean
Many types of faults are recognized by the Prosine inverter/charger. Should a recognized fault occur,
the fault LED will illuminate and an error code will be displayed. These error codes will override any
other menu items being displayed. The way in which this is done is different for the Standard Control
Panel and the Advanced Control System (ACS).
Control Panel
When the WARNING, FAULT, or TEMP LED is on, try to find what is causing the fault condition by
following these steps:
1. Press and hold the RESET button to display the error. It takes about five seconds before the code
displays.
2. Note the LEDs that illuminate to determine the 3-digit fault code, as in the example below.
3. Look up the error code in the Error Code Table to assist in troubleshooting the fault condition.
While the RESET button is pressed, the 3-digit number is displayed as follows:
1. The first digit is shown in the FAULT section, TEMP = 0, FAULT = 1, WARNING = 2.
2. The second digit is shown on the DC VOLTS bar graph, the bottom LED = 0, the second lowest
LED = 1, and so on to the top LED = 9.
3. The third digit is shown on the DC AMPS bar graph, the bottom LED= 0, the second lowest LED=
1, and so on to the top LED = 9.
When none of the FAULTS lights are on, pressing and holding the RESET switch will display the last
recorded fault.

This is followed by 5 pages of what to do about each code.  If you get the code and can not locate your manual, contact me and I will look up your code.

I suspect your batteries may be too low, since the coach was parked so long.  Try charging the batteries to see if the fault code goes away.

Larry

[Jim Chambers]

Thank you Larry. Very helpful tutorial. I think I have a manual, just too lazy to find it.
You are correct, low house batteries. I fired up the monitor panel and found house batterries at 10.2 volts. Turned on shore power and after the normal delay the charger fired up and the warning light went off.

Next question: I have shore power in the garage but had switched it off at the breaker (not sure why, maybe just because I was tired of hearing the inverter buzz!). Coach had no external power for about a month. I would think the house batteries would stay charged over that time period unless there is a mystery draw. I did not turn off the coach power master switch by the entry step. Should I do that when the coach is idle with no shore power?

[Bill Sprague]

[quote author=]Coach had no external power for about a month. I would think the house batteries would stay charged over that time period unless there is a mystery draw. I did not turn off the coach power master switch by the entry step. Should I do that when the coach is idle with no shore power?[/quote]
I think it is better to leave it plugged in and always charging.   There are so many small loads in a modern motorhome that the batteries will go down.  There is everything from a propane alarm to engine and transmission computers.  The inverter itself has a significant “overhead”.  

On my rig the (useless) coach power switch at the door turns off one too many things:  the fridge.  My DW and I choose to keep some things in it, so it can't be left off.  (Once, while at Camp Monaco in Harrisburg, they turned off that switch and the fridge grew mold you could cut with a lawn mower.)  From my point of view, the switch might be useful if the fridge were not on it.  Many refer to that as the “salesman’s switch” because it is useful when there are a bunch of coaches on the lot.  It allows the salesman to keep the batteries alive with the supplied solar panel (that’s too small to do anything else).  I have disabled that switch to prevent accidental use when I’m fumbling for the porchlight!

Staying plugged in also provides advantage of the "float charge" mode that switches on when the inverter/charger finishes the major charge.  The purpose of "float charge" is to prolong battery life.  

Another advantage of staying plugged in is that most our Beavers are equipped with pretty smart relays called the “Big Boy” and the “BIRD”.  Together they keep BOTH the chassis and coach/house batteries in the “float charge” mode making all the batteries last longer and quick engine starts more likely.  

Also related is that a common cause of alternator failure is working it harder than intended.  Its normal intended function is to quickly replace the current in the pair of batteries used to start the engine.  If it has to work for an extended period to charge the entire battery bank when they are half dead, it will get hot enough to ensure premature replacement.  Therefore, keeping your coach plugged in and on the “float mode” will prevent the alternator from overheating.  

If you choose to let the batteries draw down for any reason, the first thing I think you should do prior to engine start is put the Onan genset on line.  At least plug in to shore power for long enough to get all the batteries up.  The Onan is big enough to take the load of charging all the batteries without overheating.  Not only that, it charges the batteries through the inverter/charger that is smarter than the voltage regulator.  Running the Onan for awhile on the first part of a trip will prevent over working the engine alternator.

[Jim Chambers]

Thank you Bill. A wealth of good information for the novice (me). I don't leave the refer on if in the garage unless I am on shorepower.
However, based on all the factors you list I will leave it plugged in and not worry about the annoying inverter/charger buzz which I hear when I enter the garage. Planning a trip in about two weeks so I will leave the  50 amp AC on until then. That should get everything charged back up with ease.

[Bill Sprague]

[quote author=]Thank you Bill. A wealth of good information for the novice (me). I don't leave the refer on if in the garage unless I am on shorepower.
However, based on all the factors you list I will leave it plugged in and not worry about the annoying inverter/charger buzz which I hear when I enter the garae. Planning a trip in about two weeks so I will leave the  50 amp AC on until then. That should get everything charged back up with ease.[/quote]

You are welcome.

I watched Richard Nichols replace his alternator a couple weeks ago at a rally.  It was not pretty.  And, there is something about an extra wire on the alternator we use making them difficult to find.  

Be really careful about not running your fridge.  If the doors are closed, even accidentally, you will get a mold bloom that will blow your socks off!  If the fridge is cold, the mold won't grow.  

For what it's worth, some believe the fridge actually lasts longer if you never turn it off.  Some disagree.  There is no data to prove either.  Mine has been on for 7 years.  

[LarryNCarolynShirk]

Bill,
It may be interesting to see if there is any correlation between continual refrigerator use and failed circuit boards.  We do not use ours continually.  It is off 3-4 months at a time, and we have not had a circuit board fail in 9 years.

Larry