SCS entry step won't retract

[Stan Simpson]

Out of the clear blue, the entry step fails to retract, even when the ignition is on. I have a wiring diagram for the step, but have no idea what it means. I read the manual, and it says there is a 20A circuit breaker in the front run bay. It's #CB15. How do I check it with a meter to see if it's any good? Where should the meter be set? With the switch on, the amber light doesn't function.

I've attached pictures of the wiring diagram.

[Joel Ashley]

CB’s 15 & 16 should both show 12v on left and right connector posts (red tester lead on a post, black tester lead on a chassis ground).  Step CB 37 depends on the ignition and should only show voltage with the ignition switch in the ON position.  If CB 16 is hot on only the left side, it is faulty, and you wouldn’t have power to the switch, and no amber lamp.

But these door switches can fail, so you may want to pull it and check it’s connections.  Also a common bad area is the magnetic switch in the door frame which may be accessible from the wheel well and operationally tested with a magnet.  The connectors are subject to dirt and looseness where they’re at.  Many years back I dealt with mine, but I apologize that I don’t recall details, and there are other similar switches thereabouts besides that one.

Also the step drive motor’s and controller’s connections may be involved.

Joel

 

[Stan Simpson]

I'm pretty sure the switch is working because I hear it click when I turn it on and off. I don't hear the motor run at all. I will check the other two circuit breakers, CB16 and CB37. I had a spare, so I changed CB15, but it made no difference.

[Keith Moffett]

Stan
We had a similar problem.  Long story short  you can take a couple loose magnets to check the switches in the door jamb.  Try that with key off but the step switch in all three positions.  you may find a bad rocker switch for the step.
Another issue was the old motor getting weak and the wrong kind of lube creating too much strain.  A garden hose underneath on the gear and the slide rails. Then a small wire brush and a silicone lube. 

Worse case you might disconnect the control arm and see if the motor works with no resistance.  Warning though, remember which way the articulated are was so you put it back right.  I did it wrong once and it gave me fits.

[Mike Shumack]

I have a troubleshooting guide for the Lippert Coach Step and Kwikee Step

Lippert bought Kwikee and Power Gear - but i'm not sure if there was a difference in parts/troubleshooting of these brands back in 2005 (they both look like what is on my '05 Patriot with minor variation in the control box shape).

The motor used in the Kwikee Step is the same as a 86-95 Ford Taurus (driver's side) power window motor.

[Stan Simpson]

Thanks all for the responses. Mike, I downloaded and printed the trouble shooting guide. Will try to trouble shoot it today and will report back. I will check my batteries while I'm at it. Does anyone know what batteries run the steps? The chassis or house batteries?

(I am # 3,480,564,820 in the list of electrical expertise among people of the world, rated from top to bottom) 

[Mike Shumack]

I'm not sure Stan, I would think it would be the Chassis batteries.

I forgot to add to my previous pst that I have two manuals saved (one for Lippert and one for Kwikee) but they are too big to attach to my post. Perhaps we could get them into the technical documents section.

[Stan Simpson]

In another thread, I'm trouble shooting my entry step that will not retract. I used a spare Little Fuse circuit breaker to change the one labeled step (CB15) in the electrical bay. In the event I need others, where can I buy them? I've gone to Farm & Fleet, Ace Hardware, True Value Hardware, Auto Zone, O'Reilley's, and each of them have them..however there is a little bracket spot welded on to the back of them which means they won't fit in the space provided. I have tried NAPA online, and can't even get the part to come up.

I'm using 20A short stop circuit breaker as the description. Is it known as something else?

Edit: update..I called BCS and spoke to Mike in parts. He said they call them mini-breakers. I found them (without the bracket) here: https://www.wiringproducts.com/short-stop-auto-reset-circuit-breakers-no-mounting-bracket

Actually higher priced than BCS. I will order from them.

[Stan Simpson]

I checked CB15, CB16, and CB37 and all were reading 12.64, except CB37, which had a load on it, as the ignition was on, and it read 12.38.

Do those look okay to the electrical gurus here?

My dashboard still says STEP OUT (and it is), even with the ignition on. It's 90 out right now, so I'm waiting until it cools off a little before I look at the underside of the step. Might be a loose ground wire, who knows?

[Stan Simpson]

I checked CB15, CB16, and CB37 and all were reading 12.64, except CB37, which had a load on it, as the ignition was on, and it read 12.38.

Do those look okay to the electrical gurus here?

My dashboard still says STEP OUT (and it is), even with the ignition on. It's 90 out right now, so I'm waiting until it cools off a little before I look at the underside of the step. Might be a loose ground wire, who knows?

[Joel Ashley]

Your breakers appear to be okay, Stan.  Power should be getting to the switch on the panel.  But is it going to the controller from there... removing the switch/escutcheon to test it is one option, or see if the white wire into the controller gets power on and off as the switch position is changed.  If no there is no external connector on the controller, attach the black probe on your meter to a chassis ground and the red to a needle or pin you pierce the white wire with.  There are two green ground wires off the controller... see that they have solid connections to the chassis or a ground buss.  The “Step Out” dash lamp implies the grounds are likely okay.

Yeah, there could be a mechanical jam preventing retraction.  But a common issue, as noted previously by myself and Keith, is the door frame-mounted magnetic switch.  The connections inside/behind it can go awry.  It can be checked by sliding a magnet back and forth over it to see if it works.  I can’t recall the details of its configuration in the door jamb, but seems like I could get at its back from the wheel well;  or remove it from the front?

Joel

[Stan Simpson]

Joel,
I'm familiar with the wires that come out of the switch, go through the wheel well and then up to the ignition. Had some in the past that were broken and repaired. I will try that if nothing shows up when I test the leads under the step. Thanks.

[Steve Huber Co-Admin]

Stan,
Voltages are OK.  Suggest you go to Common Problems on BAC website. The Entry Step article may be helpful.  http://beaveramb.org/common-problems/
Steve

[Stan Simpson]

Update:

I have tried everything, even taking apart the loom that comes out of the magnetic switches, through the door and in to the wheel well. Nothing broken or frayed or detached. I have a real hard time under the coach due to my hips, so I only gave them an eyeball and could not find anything amiss.

Today, I tried testing the power to the switch inside the door. (see pictures). The step switch has three spade connections. All wires are white. One yellow one and two blue ones. No clue what they mean. Can someone give me an idea how to test them? I have a multi-meter set at 20V when I test. Is that correct? Where do I put the red probe and the black probe on each of the switch wires? I'm also attaching a picture of the wiring schematic for the step.

[Roy Warren Co-Admin]

I had a problem once and after hours of working on the electrical area, someone told me it might be jammed and not by anything but rust.  I used a crow bar and a hammer to work on the pivot points and to try and move the step.  I finally broke the rust loose and the step has worked fine since.  I keep the pivot points oiled and after breaking it loose I used some rust remover.
Roy Warren