Here’s an image showing my home-made bracket end-on. To make it, I took a piece of steel angle iron and trimmed down one side to be just less than the height of the door ‘lip’, then ground the ‘inside’ edge of the short side down so it allows the rubber door gasket to continue to make a seal. Then drilled three holes in the short side to match the holes in the strut bracket and then used those holes to guide as I drilled outward through the aluminum door fascia. Used stainless bolts and nylock nuts and sealant around edge to aid the rubber door gasket. The other (downward) side of the angle iron is drilled to match existing holes in top of door frame and secured with pop rivets. Also drilled new holes and countersunk and secured to the top of the door frame with stainless machine screws, and then covered the heads with sealant.
Before I started the bracket I placed various small objects on the top of the door frame and attempted to close the door to discover how much clearance I had for my bracket thickness and fasteners.
The image also shows old elbow bracket hole covered with Gorilla tape. Gotta improve that one of these days.
As for location of the strut brackets, I just sort of guessed based on info in iRV2 posts and YouTube vids. I suggest you mount the coach-side bracket first. That location and strut length determine how wide the door opens. Then attach the strut to that bracket and use strut body measurement to aid in locating the door-side bracket. Make sure to allow enough distance between the two brackets to allow the strut to completely collapse when the door is closed. (Full disclosure: in trying to be perfect I missed by 1/8” and had to drill an extra hole in my door to give the strut enough room! Grrrrrr...)
As I said, the strut is far superior to the stock elbow. Love it!
Good luck!
-Will