Entry Door Bracket

[Jill Goldman]

Hi Folks,

I need to replace the entry door bracket on my 2003 Patriot. 40 MPH wind gust caught it after it had been sort of fixed. I have found a source at https://shop.findmyrvparts.com/searchresults.asp?Search=entry+door&Submit=, but they have a few options and I'm not sure which one I should purchase.

Any thoughts?

Thanks,

Jill Goldman

[Neal E Weinmann]

Had to replace ours and the vendor needed the coach VIN in order to supply the correct bracket. Also, replacing the bracket needed to be done by an RV Tech, as while the bracket is screwed into the door frame ours was riveted to the top of the door with sizable rivets that were set using a pneumatic rivet gun. While I can handle many repairs on our RV, we left the whole process of ordering and installing the bracket to the RV Tech because I don’t have the needed rivet gun.

[Bob Stone]

Jill, a couple of years ago I can across on the RV2 forum a solution to troublesome door bracket.  A 20 inch, 20 pound gas strut was Installed at the top of the door and the door frame approximately where the door bracket is presently installed. Initially this individual had used a 20 pound gas strut but subsequently suggested a 10 pound strut would suffice.


This first installation was done on a Holiday Rambler but more recent posts indicates excellent results on Monaco coaches. Although the strut is on the outside of the coach it is hardly noticed do to the door awning and other appuratuances. It can be installed to replace the present door or as a supplement. One person commented that wind gust had ripped the present retainer in two allowing the door to swing forward smashing the mirror causing many hundreds of dollars in repair/replacement.


Apparently the strut is/was available on Amazon. I haven't made this mode myself but it is on my to do list. If you are interested in this option and have trouble locating this thread on the RV2 forum drop me a note on PM and I’ll pass along the information I have on hand.

Note: I just discovered all the information I offered above is well covered in our Technical Information if you do a search for    Entry Door Strut

Bob

[Will Hansen]

For the record, I replaced the old worn out (expensive) elbow arm on our Contessa entry door with a 10# gas strut about a year ago after reading all the posts mentioned and watching some videos. The strut has worked really well and provides a nice smooth opening action with the last couple inches slowing the door as it approaches the limit. Definitely better than the stock arm at keeping the door open, and an overall nice update, and way cheaper. In high winds we still need to hold the door handle when opening the door. I can’t think of a solution to that. Very happy with this mod.

I used same strut as on all our basement doors so I keep an extra on hand. Just had to order the proper strut mounting brackets. I mounted the coach side of the strut by screwing directly through the trim into the aluminum casing/frame. Made a bracket out of 2” of steel angle iron screwed into the top of the door itself.  Another case of measuring 3-4 times and drilling once!

While these struts appear pretty fragile and have plastic sockets, they are remarkably robust and the parts that count are stainless steel.

Can post pictures and more details if anyone is interested.

-Will

[Bob Stone]

Thank you Will, I would be interested in seeing your strut addition particularly where and how you made your attachments to door and coach.  I was just checking out the gas shocks today at Wally's World in Yuma.


Bob

[Will Hansen]

Here’s an image showing my home-made bracket end-on.  To make it, I took a piece of steel angle iron and trimmed down one side to be just less than the height of the door ‘lip’, then ground the ‘inside’ edge of the short side down so it allows the rubber door gasket to continue to make a seal. Then drilled three holes in the short side to match the holes in the strut bracket and then used those holes to guide as I drilled outward through the aluminum door fascia. Used stainless bolts and nylock nuts and sealant around edge to aid the rubber door gasket. The other (downward) side of the angle iron is drilled to match existing holes in top of door frame and secured with pop rivets. Also drilled new holes and countersunk and secured to the top of the door frame with stainless machine screws, and then covered the heads with sealant.

Before I started the bracket I placed various small objects on the top of the door frame and attempted to close the door to discover how much clearance I had for my bracket thickness and fasteners.

The image also shows old elbow bracket hole covered with Gorilla tape.  Gotta improve that one of these days.

As for location of the strut brackets, I just sort of guessed based on info in iRV2 posts and YouTube vids. I suggest you mount the coach-side bracket first. That location and strut length determine how wide the door opens. Then attach the strut to that bracket and use strut body measurement to aid in locating the door-side bracket. Make sure to allow enough distance between the two brackets to allow the strut to completely collapse when the door is closed.  (Full disclosure: in trying to be perfect I missed by 1/8” and had to drill an extra hole in my door to give the strut enough room! Grrrrrr...)

As I said, the strut is far superior to the stock elbow. Love it!

Good luck!

-Will