Ditto here on the clearance lights. They didn’t look all that bad and seemed to be adequately sealed, but hairline lens cracks were apparently the culprit. BCS replaced them a few years ago while we were in for other issues. I could’ve done it, but their experience and workmanship was quick and worth it. Fortunately I didn’t have the extensive intrusion you seem to have, but if yours are original they are way overdue. I only saw one leak instance on ours from over the driver’s dash; probably from just the way the coach was parked/angled that one time. Glad your tech was on it. I occasionally treat the lenses, especially those over the windshield, with Aerospace 303 to minimize brittleness from UV exposure.
Now, our electrical bay leak was another story. For years the bay would accumulate a lake whose flood waters threatened low-mounted components like the VIP Smartwheel module and other wire looms and connections. I’d have to go out after rainy spells and check. Sometimes there was an extended sponge-out necessary and sometimes not. I put desiccant pots in there too, and hunted for the leak source. I found it in the bay ceiling, left front, where the wire looms came through from above.
Some of that could’ve been from the clearance light issue, but after I finally spent an hour judiciously filling obvious large cracks in the windshield’s rubber brow with Lexel, the lake was gone. It’s been history now for 7 or 8 years. BCS always claimed the brow cracking would not cause leaking below, and they know the seal’s construction better than I. Yet after Lexel it stopped. Water had to be getting behind the brow somewhere, seeping streetside, and creeping down the driver’s pillar and onto the bay ceiling.
I can say that rubber windshield seal/brow was badly cracked along its “trough” not long after the coach was new. It was a bad factory install in 2006 that they remounted (replacing a resultant cracked windshield) in 2007. I’ve thought of having BCS or RV Glass Solutions replace the seal and/or brow, but since Lexeling it I’m in “if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it“ mode.
Lexel is in many ways similar to but better than silicone. Small squeeze tubes are available at Ace stores and some Lowe’s, who has the caulking gun size too. A wet finger on fresh beads works well, but don’t wait 10 minutes to do that smoothing. Also clean the rubber with Simple Green beforehand, rinse, and let it dry. I use it on home projects requiring waterproofing, including holes drilled in siding or other outdoor screw sites. I perimetered my kitchen under-sink platform with Lexel, to keep any water leaks from getting to surrounding walls or underneath cabinetry. I use it to improve sealing of outdoor Xmas light control modules, to stop internal circuit board corrosion. It’s not electrically conductive and has lots of uses I dream up.
But capping the tube tightly is essential, or it sets up a bit in the tube neck. The next use may require squeezing out the first inch or two to get to less viscous, more workable product. I squeeze to fill the tube’s neck, replace the cap, then add an extra rubber “condom” or tape over the cap to keep air out.
Sorry... I got sidelined way off topic again. Fewer words is usually better.
It’s Gerald’s fault!
He clued us into Lexel years ago
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The pucker shown in photo 2 worked easily back in place with the right tools.
-Joel