BIRD/Big Boy Issues

[Larry Dedrick]

For our Tech people and troubleshooters. Just want to pass on another step to check when you are having a BIRD/Big Boy problem.

                          I too, have had battery charging problems, house batteries not charging while driving and chassis batteries not charging on shore power. This condition being very intermittent along with a Noisy Big Boy (have we Heard that before?)
                          I found the molex coupler ground pin on the BIRD was not always making good contact. This was discovered when a tech  was talking me through a voltmeter check at the BIRD's molex connector to the board. When i inserted the negative probe into the ground everything began working, when I pulled the probe out, it would stop working (affecting the Big Boy relay to close and open accordingly). I theorized the ground pin was faulty due to not always making ground.
                          I managed to finesse this problem for 5 months when i finally could not finesse the BIRD any longer.
                   The BIRD board was removed and I inspected the back of the board. The molex coupling ground pin had a cold solder (a hairline crack in the solder completely around the pin with I'm sure vibration contributing). So today I resoldered  the Pin, and as of today, all is good.
                    I pass this along for the members to consider when having charging issues that are similar. So today I learned to solder a circuit board and Thank You "Youtube"

[Lee Welbanks]

Larry, Great info for the ongoing process of keeping these things operating. A couple years ago my Girard awning was operating by itself. Found a cold solder joint with one of the pins on the board, re-soldered it and all is well.

[LaMonte Monnell]

Thanks for sharing these repairs for us to have on file. if I keep driving this Beaver I am sure these issues will come up....the other 800 already have I think!

[Joel Ashley]

I’ve repaired a few of those hard to discover nano-cracked solder points.  A TV converter box and our microwave oven among them. 

There are many versions of it, but an Optivisor headset sure came in handy for spotting the otherwise imperceptible flaws.  A simple touch-up resolder did the trick as it did for Larry. Some devices get hot and then cool in repetitive cycles (as the convection side of our microwave did), a situation many proximal circuit board solder joints can’t tolerate over time.  When repairing, use the correct solder composition and size, and the proper heat setting.

I included an Optiloupe and LED attachment when I got mine several years ago.  It’s a good product... my Dad was using his Optivisor 60 years ago, which is how I knew about it.

https://smile.amazon.com/Donegan-OptiVisor-Headband-Magnifier-Magnification/dp/B0015IN8J6/ref=sr_1_32?crid=39EVAHIUG9J1U&keywords=magnifying%2Bheadset%2Bwith%2Bled%2Blight&qid=1580271090&sprefix=Magnifying%2Bhead%2Caps%2C203&sr=8-32&th=1

The pix below show the common ring type of cracks, but my microwave had two solder points that had cracking straight from the edge to center, and they were nearly invisible with the naked eye.



Joel

[Larry Dedrick]

Joel
          Thanks for the information. I am going to order a Optivisor, could have used them during inspection and soldering. What magnification are yours? I tried to tell by what I believe was the model number, but was not certain.
         The picture of the cracked solder (cold solder) on the circuit board was exactly what mine looked like, but of course, not anymore.
      Thanks again

[Joel Ashley]

I got the DA-10, Larry.  Also the Optiloupe and LED lamp add-ons.  The light is especially useful.

https://smile.amazon.com/Original-OptiVISOR-Magnifier-Jewelers-Watchmaker/dp/B00C9UTPA0/ref=sr_1_13?crid=K313OD8KH9FZ&keywords=donegan+optivisor&qid=1580336972&sprefix=Donega%2Caps%2C207&sr=8-13

I might recommend putting the unit and any wanted options on your “Save for later” list while on your Cart page.  These things may show better pricing if you’re willing to wait awhile..

Joel

[Joel Ashley]

And to repeat my caution, some circuit boards or their components can be damaged by too much iron heat, and be sure if adding fresh solder to clean the area with flux first, and then finish with flux remover after soldering. I use a nice little Hakko brand, adjustable heat iron.  Similar to model HFX888D-23BY.

Most solder is 60/40 tin/lead, but for circuit boards I prefer 63/37, and very fine gauge .031-.032 inch diameter solder wire.

[Larry Dedrick]

Joel
        Thanks for the information on solder. I will need to take a closer look at what I have and improve my supply. I have been reviewing soldering on youtube and what you have stated on solder is exactly what I saw on youtube. Now I'm going to find an old circuit board to hone my skills.

         Thanks