Black tank dump valve

[Robert McVicker]

Hello has anyone have issues with the black tank gate valve leaking into the wet bay area? I have on my 07 leaking through the crack between the 2 halves of the valve,can the valve be rebuilt with a kit or just replace. Has anyone had luck with taking apart to clean and lube.Thanks in advance Bob Forgot to mention they are manual valves was hoping there was a rebuild kit i could purchase

[Bill Lampkin]

If your valve is an electric Drainmaster valve, I don't think they can be repaired, but you can replace the two seals on each side of the valve. Call Drainmaster, they can send you the parts. Follow the instructions to the letter, its not a hard job but one you don't want to do often. Drain your black tank and rinse. Try to pitch the MH up on the drivers side. Make sure to use the silicone grease they supply and don't over tighten the 4 flange nuts. They don't even need to be hand tight, just barely snug. You  might want to replace w/ the new style valves, I did, and they do seem to work better.
I have too much practice at this!

https://drainmaster.com/rv/pro-series-smart-electric-waste-valves?gclid=Cj0KCQjw17n1BRDEARIsAFDHFewxSxE_VupyFhr2t-rdJz1_8ZccpIhDGxxD3rsWEh3z-AX8VcbMCp8aAifrEALw_wcB

[Mike Shumack]

Hello has anyone have issues with the black tank gate valve leaking into the wet bay area? I have on my 07 leaking through the crack between the 2 halves of the valve,can the valve be rebuilt with a kit or just replace. Has anyone had luck with taking apart to clean and lube.Thanks in advance Bob

One of my seals leaked on my Grey tank. I noticed a smell after camping a day or two (the time it took for some Grey water to accumulate from use of sink). Then I noticed water pooling around the bottom or wet bay.
I was planning on replacing the Black tank Drain-master valve anyways because a couple of times the valve didn't work properly. I got a good deal on two new valves from a forum member here.

Replacing the valves is easy if you have access.  My coach has an access door cut in to the front of Wet bay panel (done by previous owner. See photo). With that access, I was able to swap out both valves in about 15 minutes. it still takes some contortions as you can't get two hands in there easily.

The Drain-master instructions say to install the seals on the piping then slip the valve in between. It's easier if you remove (or loosen) the four bolts on the "outlet side" (the Wye-pipe that you connect your drain hose to) of both valves. That removes the tension and allows the new valve to slip in without risk of dislodging the seal.

[David T. Richelderfer]

I like that door setup but, as you said, I too wish it could be slightly wider.  I have fairly long arms and wide shoulders, but I'm over 6 feet tall too.  I suppose an orangutan would have an easier time with it.  This summer after we get home in Oregon, I may try loosening the bolts a half turn which holds the dump valves in place.  The valves do work but a bit sluggishly.  Someone posted here some time ago that many people (like me) probably overtighten the bolts causing too much friction on the seals which overworks the valve motors.

I remember when I spoke to Drain Master I was told the valve motors will burn up if the button is held down when actuating the valves.  The motors need to run only a second or so for the valves to fully open and fully close.  Holding the button longer will tend to overheat and burn out the valve motors.

Nice picture...