BAC Forum
General Boards => General Discussion => Topic started by: Sherry Klumpp on August 03, 2017, 07:01:50 PM
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Hi All,
I'm getting conflicting information, and I need some expert advice please!!
Most have told me to leave the "coach power" button in the on position and plug into shore power when the 2005 Beaver Monterey is stored. The Xantrex system is supposed to use the shore power to keep the batteries charged. I recently moved the motorhome to a storage facility that only has a 15 amp shore supply. I've tripped their breaker a couple of times, but I don't know what I did for that to happen.
A mobile technician told me to turn off Coach power and turn off both knobs to the batteries to keep them from being drained when storing. She said that if I didn't turn off the batteries, I would drain them even if plugged into 15 amp shore power.
The motorhome was put in storage on Sunday. Coach power was left on. Shore power 15 amp was working based on power surge indicator. When I entered the motorhome, the first thing I did was turn on the generator so that I could turn on the A/Cs. I know I can't run the A/Cs on 15 amps. I tripped a breaker when I turned on the generator. Why did this happen?
I used the Aladdin to look at house battery status after we restored power through the fuse. Now I don't recall the numbers, but I thought the batteries were still charged.
Are there limitations due to the 15 amp shore supply? Should I turn off the battery switches when stored and plugged into 15 amps? I'm confused.
Thank you!!
Sherry
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Sherry,
Welcome to the world of Beavers!
15A service will keep your batteries charged and run the lights when you enter the coach, but that's about it. There should be no reason to turn off coach power (with the front dash switch). Most of us recommend not using it ("salesman switch") as the relay it controls has a habit of failing and then you have no way of getting 12v to the coach interior unless you replace or jumper the relay. Be sure that you have turned off any other 12V draws in the coach when storing it (refrigerator, fantastic fans, water heater, etc). Alternately (and preferably IMHO) you can turn off the battery disconnect switches off (House and Chassis) at the rear of the coach. This will disconnect 12v power from everything except a few vital systems such as the engine ECU and the battery charger.
I'm not sure why a breaker trips when you start the generator. Is this the storage facility's breaker? The transfer switch in the coach is designed to sense when the generator is running and is designed to select the generator over shore power when the generator is running. Possibly your transfer switch is acting up.
Steve
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Steve,
thanks so much for the welcome and the information :)!
I make sure everything is turned off when storing and plugging into 15 amp shore power. I looked at the surge protector, and all three lights were green, which means the coach is getting electric; so I didn't trip the facility breaker when I plugged into their shore power. The Aladdin is malfunctioning and has been showing "no AC" even when I'm getting power from shore or generator. So I can't use the Aladdin to check it. There is a black switch just behind the drop-down table near the kitchen sink. If I turn that on, lights come on. Those are supposed to be electric only. I don't normally use those, but I have used them to check whether I'm getting shore power or not.
The facility breaker has been tripped twice- both times that I've returned to the new facility. I don't know when the facility breaker trips. The first time the facility power was tripped, I thought it might have been because I had turned on the refrigerator two days earlier to cool before taking it out on the road. But the shore power wasn't the first thing I checked when I went back to the facility. I heard a beep when I entered the coach, and it was the Norcold refrigerator. Seems the control panel is bad. I hadn't started the generator, but the facility breaker was tripped. I did turn on the generator, and everything but the refrigerator started to work. So I don't know the facility breaker tripped...
The second time, both the facility's breaker and a main power breaker in the coach (everything in the coach shut down) were thrown when I turned on the generator. Again, I didn't check the facility's breaker first- so I don't know when that tripped. The coach power button was in the "on" position when this happened.
Someone at the dealership realized the coach power button wasn't shutting off and they "worked on it". The mechanic was looking for fuses or something to replace. but later, the owner said it was because a cable was plugged into the wrong place. One person said "don't touch the coach power button" (the dealer), as did the previous and only other owner, and another person (employee) thought it should be turned off. Then the mobile technician turned it off saying "if you leave the coach power button on, it will drain the batteries" and she said to always turn it off when I left the coach in storage. She also turned off both battery disconnect switches in the rear of the coach. Too many question marks on more than one front...
So am I correct in thinking that leaving the "coach power" button in the on position while stored and plugged into 15 amp electric will keep batteries charged? The previous owner told me that the Xantrex uses the shore power to charge the batteries. Is that correct? Or am I misunderstanding how this works? Does the 15 amp shore power only supply sufficient power to the coach so as not to drain the batteries?
Sorry, I'm very confused. Different things said and done at different times, and now I don't know what is going on. The second time I returned to the coach, the first thing I did was turn on the generator, and that's when the main power switch in the coach was tripped. I don't know if it was the 30 or 50 amp fuse. I want to say it was the 50 amp.
There may be a problem with that switch after the mechanic at the dealership "worked on it". I don't know...
Is there something I can do to test/check it?
Can I "pre-cool" the refrigerator on 15 amp?
Thanks for your time and patience!!
Sherry
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“There is a black switch just behind the drop-down table near the kitchen sink. If I turn that on, lights come on. Those are supposed to be electric only. I don't normally use those, but I have used them to check whether I'm getting shore power or not.”
Not sure what this switch is but most lights run on 12v DC so I don’t think this is a good indicator of shore power. The inverter (Xantrex) control panel should have a shore power or AC IN indicator.
“The second time, both the facility's breaker and a main power breaker in the coach (everything in the coach shut down) were thrown when I turned on the generator. Again, I didn't check the facility's breaker first- so I don't know when that tripped. The coach power button was in the "on" position when this happened.”
Did coach main breaker trip when generator was turned on or was it already tripped? The coach power button controls DC voltage (12V) and has no direct effect on AC voltage. The main breaker in the coach is for AC voltage so status of power button should not matter.
When leaving coach in storage, leave coach power button on. Turn off both house and chassis battery disconnect switches in rear of coach. This will allow charging of batteries.
“So am I correct in thinking that leaving the "coach power" button in the on position while stored and plugged into 15 amp electric will keep batteries charged?” Yes
“The previous owner told me that the Xantrex uses the shore power to charge the batteries. Is that correct?” Yes
“Does the 15 amp shore power only supply sufficient power to the coach so as not to drain the batteries?” Basically Yes.
“There may be a problem with that switch after the mechanic at the dealership "worked on it". I don't know... “
Tech’s work on coach power switch should not affect AC problem you are having with breakers tripping.
“ Is there something I can do to test/check it?” If switch kills DC power when pushed and re-applies it when pushed again, it’s working. Use ceiling lights as an indicator as they are 12V.
“Can I "pre-cool" the refrigerator on 15 amp?” I think so, especially if batteries are fully charged.. The fridge draws about 6A when running on AC. The battery charger could also be drawing current. You said that the control board for the fridge is bad. It could be the source of your problems if you haven’t had it turned off completely during storage. Consider unplugging it when in storage. The plug is accessible by removing the access panel on the outside of the coach behind the fridge.
You could precool it using propane but then you’ll need to turn on the house batteries as it also requires 12vDC. However, I wouldn’t run the propane inside an unattended facility, especially with a bad control board in the unit.
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I can see your confusion, and am not adept enough to postulate the genset's penchant for tripping breakers, other than some transfer switch issue. But the transfer switch should automatically sense the genset's running and select over to its power; being plugged into facility power concurrently should make no difference.
How long and how big is your cord from the facility's outlet? The longer and smaller the cord, the more the voltage drop, not a particularly system-friendly situation. Less expensive 30/15 adapter plugs, and even fancier ones, can burn up as can cord fittings... a fire hazard. Where I must, I use no more than 50 ft of #12 cord (25ft preferred) and higher grade adapters, and hopefully a 20 amp source. Only the minimum onboard devices are used, but a fridge should normally be okay. Is your HydroHot electric side off? The inverter's charger may initially bulk charge when first plugged in, but if you've just came off the road it shouldn't.
As to the doggone Coach Power (aka Salesman's) switch, it or its solenoid in the compartment over your batteries can wear from overuse. Where Beavers were originally made, perhaps even yours, in Bend, and at Beaver Coach Service across the street, they would tell you adamantly to leave that's switch ON. To avoid your forgetting or someone else switching it off, you could put tape over it, securing it in the ON position however temporarily. Some even jumper the switch connections behind it, or jumper the rear solenoid's posts so inadvertently turning the switch off at the entry door doesn't actually do anything but put wear on it.
Joel
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I can see your confusion, and am not adept enough to postulate the genset's penchant for tripping breakers, other than some transfer switch issue. But the transfer switch should automatically sense the genset's running and select over to its power; being plugged into facility power concurrently should make no difference..
Where is the transfer switch? It's not the same as the coach power switch, is it? Yikes- I have a lot to learn!!
How long and how big is your cord from the facility's outlet? The longer and smaller the cord, the more the voltage drop, not a particularly system-friendly situation. Less expensive 30/15 adapter plugs, and even fancier ones, can burn up as can cord fittings... a fire hazard. Where I must, I use no more than 50 ft of #12 cord (25ft preferred) and higher grade adapters, and hopefully a 20 amp source. Only the minimum onboard devices are used, but a fridge should normally be okay. Is your HydroHot electric side off? The inverter's charger may initially bulk charge when first plugged in, but if you've just came off the road it shouldn't..
I don't know the exact dimensions of the cord, but it's got to be less than 25 feet and looks close to 1/2" in diameter. The Hydrohot went bad and was the reason the coach was sold. The Hydrohot was replaced with an Atwood which uses propane and electric. Electric was definitely off. I was camping with a couple, and the husband is RV savvy. He showed me a number of things and made sure everything was off before we left.
The Atwood was mounted such that I can't open the larger door surrounding where the hot water control panel is located. The people at the dealership keep telling me I don't need to get into the compartment where the door swings laterally... I don't think that's true. The mobile technician said she would take care of that.
As to the doggone Coach Power (aka Salesman's) switch, it or its solenoid in the compartment over your batteries can wear from overuse. Where Beavers were originally made, perhaps even yours, in Bend, and at Beaver Coach Service across the street, they would tell you adamantly to leave that's switch ON. To avoid your forgetting or someone else switching it off, you could put tape over it, securing it in the ON position however temporarily. Some even jumper the switch connections behind it, or jumper the rear solenoid's posts so inadvertently turning the switch off at the entry door doesn't actually do anything but put wear on it.
Joel
The owner of the dealership said the reason the coach power button didn't work (as in turn off) was that a cable wasn't plugged into the proper location. Maybe he was referring to the jumper, and that was done intentionally so that it couldn't be turn off. I'm not using it anymore!!!
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Steve,
“There is a black switch just behind the drop-down table near the kitchen sink. If I turn that on, lights come on. Those are supposed to be electric only. I don't normally use those, but I have used them to check whether I'm getting shore power or not.”
Not sure what this switch is but most lights run on 12v DC so I don’t think this is a good indicator of shore power. The inverter (Xantrex) control panel should have a shore power or AC IN indicator.
The Xantrex light for AC IN/Charge is green and on. However, it's the only light on the panel that is on.
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That tells you that AC power is present and that the charger is on (assuming it has been enabled). you should be able to observe the charge rate on the display. Refer to your Xantrex manual.
Steve
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Thanks to all of you!! I now have a much better understanding about how all these energy systems work together or independently. I think I may be able to trouble shoot from here, or at least be able to explain why "coach power" shouldn't be touched. That's what the previous owner told me. All of you have more collective knowledge about these motorhomes than most these days :)!
Sherry
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The transfer switch box is mounted to the back wall of your cord reel compartment, and may look like this one: https://www.invertersupply.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=6035&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Shopping&utm_term=1101103909189&utm_content=Product%20Listing%20Ads
The most common #12 extension cord is yellow, whereas most small standard #14's are orange. The wire size should be embossed along the cord, such as "12-3" for the wiring inside consists of three size 12 wires - black, white, and green.
As to the Atwood unit in place of the HydroHot, I've not heard of that maneuver, nor that Atwood had such an animal. They do furnaces, air conditioners, water heaters and such, and control thermostats for hydronics, but hydronic units themselves? Perhaps what you have is a water heater and a separate furnace, as opposed to a hydronic combination?
Yes, it sounds like someone has already jumpered the Coach Power circuit.
Joel
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The transfer switch box is mounted to the back wall of your cord reel compartment, and may look like this one: https://www.invertersupply.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=6035&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Shopping&utm_term=1101103909189&utm_content=Product%20Listing%20Ads
The most common #12 extension cord is yellow, whereas most small standard #14's are orange. The wire size should be embossed along the cord, such as "12-3" for the wiring inside consists of three size 12 wires - black, white, and green.
As to the Atwood unit in place of the HydroHot, I've not heard of that maneuver, nor that Atwood had such an animal. They do furnaces, air conditioners, water heaters and such, and control thermostats for hydronics, but hydronic units themselves? Perhaps what you have is a water heater and a separate furnace, as opposed to a hydronic combination?
Yes, it sounds like someone has already jumpered the Coach Power circuit.
Joel
Joel, I think you just described my problem. When I was out last weekend, someone showed me the transfer box. I know exactly what you are referring to. I tried attaching a picture, but it's too large.
My email is klumppsa@gmail.com. I can send it to you via email.
Thanks!!!
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The transfer switch box is mounted to the back wall of your cord reel compartment, and may look like this one: https://www.invertersupply.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=6035&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Shopping&utm_term=1101103909189&utm_content=Product%20Listing%20Ads
The most common #12 extension cord is yellow, whereas most small standard #14's are orange. The wire size should be embossed along the cord, such as "12-3" for the wiring inside consists of three size 12 wires - black, white, and green.
As to the Atwood unit in place of the HydroHot, I've not heard of that maneuver, nor that Atwood had such an animal. They do furnaces, air conditioners, water heaters and such, and control thermostats for hydronics, but hydronic units themselves? Perhaps what you have is a water heater and a separate furnace, as opposed to a hydronic combination?
Yes, it sounds like someone has already jumpered the Coach Power circuit.
Joel
Joel, on the Automatic Transfer Switch- it is a WFCO, Model:WF-T57. The bolts that should hold the wires in place are just dangling loose- meaning that the connectors that should hold the cords in place are not attached to the transfer box. The cords are white and red, although it looks like there is also a black. The main electric cord that plugs into shore power is black. I will be at the motorhome tomorrow. I'll look for the numbers.
Yeah, I shouldn't have an Atwood. this is what they replaced the Hydro-hot with: http://www.atwoodmobile.com/dealer-manuals/waterheatermanual.pdf
I have a warranty. Even though the Atwood works, the mobile tech is going to try and get it replaced with an Aqua-hot. Is that the same as the Hydro-hot?
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Okay, that's what I figured... a regular Atwood water heater; but what sort of unit is used to heat the inside of the coach - a propane furnace? Where was that installed?
Regardless, be aware a new hydronics unit that supplies both hot water and coach heat, can preheat the engine prior to starting it, and allows hot engine coolant to help run it, will cost perhaps $7k not including labor to undo whatever was done to add the furnace and water heater. Hopefully some of the original hydronics installation remains for reuse. Now, I suppose you could have an uncommon factory basic coach, without the hydronics option, but that's not what you understood re the sale of the rig.
Vehicle Systems made the AquaHot hydronics unit for larger coaches, and it's found in Marquis and Patriots, etc. Later they built a smaller version less costly and more appropriate to Montereys and such, and called it HydroHot. A few years ago they changed the company name and that of all models regardless of size to just AquaHot.
As to the transfer switch, I've not heard of that brand, but here is the info for it: www.americanrvcompany.com/assets/images/t57.pdf
Most of us have Technology Research's Surge Guard automatic transfer switch, known to be reliable coach protection and switching function. Why the wire connections are loose is anyone's guess, perhaps from incomplete work by a frustrated prior owner or his tech. Obviously that is a hazardous situation.
Quite frankly you need to get the coach to a service facility with a known reputation for a more satisfying analysis. Mobile tech's have their place, but not necessarily in an instance of major projects like you seem to be up against. Installing a hydronics unit, for example, should be done by very experienced tech's such as you'd find in Bend, Colorado at or near the AquaHot factory, Elkhart, Florida, Washington, or other known-expert installation resource. If you go to the AquaHot website you can get help with that.
Joel
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Sherry, if I may add my 2 cents here. I believe Joel has hit the nail on the head here. The priority here at least for me would be finding a good shop. It sounds like someone who thinks they know what they are doing did some work on your coach. They seem to have been over their head.
A good shop will examine all systems including the power transfer switch and make it safe for you to use. A new Transfer switch would allow the Aladdin to read right and a new relay for the salesman switch will make 12V system reliable.
Make the coach safe first and then find a good Hydro Hot as time and budget allows.
I dont know your location but if you can make it to Beaver Coach Sales in Bend Or. They can help you get your feet on the ground and give you info. You can count on as well.
Good luck and welcome to the family!
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Joel, I think you just described my problem. When I was out last weekend, someone showed me the transfer box. I know exactly what you are referring to. I tried attaching a picture, but it's too large.
My email is klumppsa@gmail.com. I can send it to you via email.
Thanks!!!
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You can use Microsoft Windows "Paint" and it's skew menu to cut a photo to 25% which usually works, or Apple's photo editing allows for resizing also. Home > Private BAC Members Only and choose the instruction document Steve Huber and I created to help make pix available here. Posting it here will help others so they can contribute.
Joel
Oops. The photo resizing help documents got moved. They're under "Forum Assistance (Members Only" now, not "Private BAC Members Only".
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Hi All,
I'm in Houston, TX. I think the dealer from whom I purchased had something to do with this, but they sell used RVs only. I've asked for copies of the work done, but none has been forthcoming.
Is there any place near Houston where I can get this done? I have an extended warranty through Easy Care, but I don't know whether that is of any help.
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Hi All,
I tried sending a photo but I'm not sure it went!
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Sherry, if I may add my 2 cents here. I believe Joel has hit the nail on the head here. The priority here at least for me would be finding a good shop. It sounds like someone who thinks they know what they are doing did some work on your coach. They seem to have been over their head.
A good shop will examine all systems including the power transfer switch and make it safe for you to use. A new Transfer switch would allow the Aladdin to read right and a new relay for the salesman switch will make 12V system reliable.
Make the coach safe first and then find a good Hydro Hot as time and budget allows.
I dont know your location but if you can make it to Beaver Coach Sales in Bend Or. They can help you get your feet on the ground and give you info. You can count on as well.
Good luck and welcome to the family!
I am in Houston, TX. I know the previous owner didn't do this. I have a bad feeling that the place from which I purchased changed out the transfer box. I know they installed the Atwood- they told me they did. Do I have any recourse? This is a small operation that buys and sells used motorhomes only. It's clear from talking to the mechanics that they don't know enough about a Beaver to do the work. I can't believe what they have done. I think that being a single female isn't helping my case. The unit was sold because the hydro-hot burned out. Why all these other problems arose is beyond me. I've asked for a copy of what repairs were done, but they haven't given them to me.
I purchased an Easy Care warranty through this group. Any licensed business can use it. I don't know if the things we are identifying are "maintenance" or repair. If not repair, I pay. Would I be better off trying to sell the RV and cut my losses??
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Sherry,
Don’t panic. Class A diesels are complicated beasts and there is a learning curve we all have to go through.
1. In regards to the Atwood system, is it just a water heater or does it also provide heat for the coach? If it only heats water for interior use, how is the coach interior heated?
2. We maintain a “Service Providers” list of shops that members have used. The closest one listed in Iron Horse in San Antonio. Here is the hyperlink. http://beaveramb.org/forum/index.php/topic,5250.0.html You need to be logged in to access it on the Forum (Private BAC Members Only> Service Providers). There is also RV Service Reviews http://www.rvservicereviews.com/StateList.asp?Submit=&sortby=location&state=TX&search=&CategoryID=&ZipCode=&Miles=&SearchState=&KeywordState=
It is open for anyone to post their review.
Based on the records I got with a Marquis I purchased in TX a number of years ago, I would not recommend RV Masters in Houston (my opinion only). The owners also used Action RV Service in Conroe but I couldn’t draw any conclusion on their skill level based on the receipts. They seemed to be a full service shop.
3. Your warrantee should cover repairs (read it to verify). Be sure to tell the repair facility to contact the warrantee company BEFORE doing any repair work as a number of the companies will use this as a reason to not cover the repair. A good shop should know how to deal with the warrantee co.
4. Getting back to the breaker tripping, if you haven’t, see if you can plug into another outlet on a different breaker. It could be that the facility’s breaker is bad.
Steve
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Sherry,
Don’t panic. Class A diesels are complicated beasts and there is a learning curve we all have to go through.
1. In regards to the Atwood system, is it just a water heater or does it also provide heat for the coach? If it only heats water for interior use, how is the coach interior heated?
2. We maintain a “Service Providers” list of shops that members have used. The closest one listed in Iron Horse in San Antonio. Here is the hyperlink. http://beaveramb.org/forum/index.php/topic,5250.0.html You need to be logged in to access it on the Forum (Private BAC Members Only> Service Providers). There is also RV Service Reviews http://www.rvservicereviews.com/StateList.asp?Submit=&sortby=location&state=TX&search=&CategoryID=&ZipCode=&Miles=&SearchState=&KeywordState=
It is open for anyone to post their review.
Based on the records I got with a Marquis I purchased in TX a number of years ago, I would not recommend RV Masters in Houston (my opinion only). The owners also used Action RV Service in Conroe but I couldn’t draw any conclusion on their skill level based on the receipts. They seemed to be a full service shop.
3. Your warrantee should cover repairs (read it to verify). Be sure to tell the repair facility to contact the warrantee company BEFORE doing any repair work as a number of the companies will use this as a reason to not cover the repair. A good shop should know how to deal with the warrantee co.
4. Getting back to the breaker tripping, if you haven’t, see if you can plug into another outlet on a different breaker. It could be that the facility’s breaker is bad.
Steve
Steve,
Once again, thank you. Just knowing there are people with some expertise is a relief!! I wish I had known more before I bought the motorhome and had known enough to try to get things done properly. Thing is, I don't think they knew. That was my impression. I got.a long list of items today that were supposedly replaced/repaired before I took possession. The transfer box is one. I'm ordering the correct one.
Thank you for telling me about the list of repair shops. The mobile mechanic is going to do what she can to make the coach safe to drive. Right now, we aren't sure it is. She has worked with Easy Care. She knows their policies and the people. So that's a relief.
The storage facility is 30 miles away, so I don't go regularly. However, I've been wondering the same about the power supply. All battery power is shut off, but as someone said, there is still the trickle effect. It does have solar panels, but it is under a roof, so those aren't helping.
Attached is a list of things they supposedly replaced/repaired. Yes, I think repairs are covered by the warranty, but maintenance items aren't. There are a number of items that still need to be addressed. The mobile technician showed me a lot of things- other than the coach power button, she seems very knowledgeable. She knows far more than the place where I purchased. She has worked at RV dealerships, automotive, electrical, mechanic- seems she knows all areas needed to do the work. I'll let her get it road-worthy and contact San Antonio in the meantime.
Thanks so much. The previous owner is distraught. He didn't leave the coach this way. He gave me a different model number for the transfer box, but that one is no longer being made. I'll get the one that was posted on this site.
I'm starting to think I should buy used motorhomes and fix them up and resale them- lol! I've got a good start!
Sherry, Houston, TX
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You may want to check with TRC Surge Guard or even Beaver Coach Service parts for the correct switch model, as I think as you mentioned the original has been updated, probably to the 350 model. There are less expensive options, but that sounds like what's been going on so far with the dealer service on this poor coach.
http://trci.net/products/surge-guard-rv/transfer-switches/50a-plus-hardwire-rvc-ats
Joel
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Sherry,
Just my thoughts on the water heater. According to the 05 brochure, the Monterey came standard with a water heater and roof mounted heat pumps. The heat pumps are very effective down to 40 degrees or so. Hydro/Aqua Hot units are complex and trouble prone. Do a search on the Forum and see how many posts there are regarding these units. IMHO they are, by far, the most trouble prone system in the RV. The only feature you probably lost was the engine preheat capability, which isn't really needed if the temp is above 40 anyway (unless they plumbed the water heater to provide heat to the engine antifreeze (good question for the tech/dealer).
Also, to get more heat in the coach than is available from the dash unit while driving, you'll have to run the generator to power the heat pumps. So, if you are not going to be RVing in sub 40 degree temps regularly (and if you are there are some efficient space heaters available to supplement the heat pumps), you may be better off (and have less headaches) with the water heater.
Other Forum members may have a differing view and I hope they post them here so you can make an informed decision.
Steve
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The Hydro-Hot is supposed to do four things:
1. It makes hot water for the sinks and showers.
2. It heated the motorhome as the normal use furnace using wall mounted thermostats.
3. It used excess engine heat to heat the motorhome while driving using the same thermostats.
4. Optionally, it could heat the engine for easier starting in very cold weather.
The service report said "Aqua Hot serviced- found to be completely unrepairable, added new Hot Water Heater from Dometic,
new switch and new wire harness."
In a dozen years of Beaver ownership and going to lots of rallies, I've never run into anyone that replaced the diesel powered Hydro-Hot with a propane powered Dometic water heater. Something is really strange.
How does the "normal heating" of the living space now work?
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Sherry,
Based on what you have written, I am assuming you purchased your coach from Best Pre-Owned RV in Houston. I purchased a 2003 Holiday Rambler Endeavor from them, before we acquired our Beaver. I am familiar with their operation, as we stayed on their property for several days while we went through the Endeavor and made a list of things that needed attention. We also purchased an Easy Cary Extended Warranty from them. They include a 12 month one with the purchase, but Marilyn allowed us to purchase an additional 3 years coverage at their cost. It was very useful when an air compressor belt froze and overheated several components. Easy Care paid for the repairs, less the deductible.
In fairness, BPORV repaired every single item on our list. In addition, since we had to leave before the new windshield arrived, they had it shipped to our service center at home, and paid for the installation. That said, when we were looking for our Beaver, we contacted them and they told us Beaver coaches were beyond their expertise so they tried to avoid them.
Going from the Endeavor to a Beaver triggered an immense learning curve, which has not peaked in the 5+ years we have owned the coach. Patience, ask questions, talk to people who own a Monterey like yours, and it will be sorted in time. This forum is priceless. There are lots of experts here. I'm not one of them, but I have a working understanding of the Hydro Hot, Power System, Aladdin, and the components. Please reach out to me or others here. There are no bad questions. Email addresses and phone numbers can be found in the Membership Directory which is accessed through the Members Only section here. Good luck.
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The Xantrex has a control panel above the entry door. Consider scrolling the menu to power share mode. When using 15 amps to power the coach lower to 15 amp. It will help manage the batteries. Have said that if your batteries are down the Xantrex will use bulk charging and the 15 amp breaker will trip. Once the generator is running or on 30/50 amp shore power remember to return the power share up to 30 on the controls.The refrigerator should be turned off at the control board on the front while on 15 amp shore power. When starting the refrigerator to cool it down and you are still on 15 amp do not put refrigerator on automatic set it for propane only.
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The transfer switch box is mounted to the back wall of your cord reel compartment, and may look like this one: https://www.invertersupply.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=6035&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Shopping&utm_term=1101103909189&utm_content=Product%20Listing%20Ads (https://www.invertersupply.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=6035&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Shopping&utm_term=1101103909189&utm_content=Product%20Listing%20Ads)
The most common #12 extension cord is yellow, whereas most small standard #14's are orange. The wire size should be embossed along the cord, such as "12-3" for the wiring inside consists of three size 12 wires - black, white, and green.
As to the Atwood unit in place of the HydroHot, I've not heard of that maneuver, nor that Atwood had such an animal. They do furnaces, air conditioners, water heaters and such, and control thermostats for hydronics, but hydronic units themselves? Perhaps what you have is a water heater and a separate furnace, as opposed to a hydronic combination?
Yes, it sounds like someone has already jumpered the Coach Power circuit.
Joel
Hi Joel, I'm attaching some photos of where the Atwood hot water heater was installed. The mobile tech just called. The dealer never connected the on/off switch so the hot water heater was running constantly and draining the batteries. The more I find out, the worse it gets...
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So it's a gas/electric combo? Basic water heaters only run on gas.
Their ignitions are 12 v. - and the gas valve - but igniters and valves are only intermittently used when the burner cycles on and off and normally wouldn't run batteries down. Any optional electric element inside the tank on the other hand would do so if used off the inverter rather than only when on park power. Although it's been many years since I dealt with one, and then gas-only ones, I would expect there to be an on/off for the Atwood as well as a selection switch for gas or electric. Your tech can verify.
The dealer doesn't appear to have done a primo job re. your bay door with this installation, so if you opt to revert back to hydronics you'd need to consider a new door.
Joel
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Joel,
It is an elec /gas combo. See brochure http://www.atwoodmobile.com/images/waterheater.pdf
It also has a heat exchanger so engine antifreeze is used to heat water while engine is running. (My Marquis had same setup and the water would stay hot in tank overnight with w/o running water heater if I had been driving 4 hours or so). AC load is 1400-1500 watts or 13-14 amps assuming 110v ac. A dual switch panel is available that allows selection of Elec, Gas or both. I would think they installed it in place of the Aqua Hot switch panel.
Steve