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Technical Support / Re: Hurricane Engine Heat
« Last post by Carl Boger on November 23, 2025, 11:49:26 PM »
Thanks Fred and David.

On my coach the circulation pump for the hurricane only comes on when the water pump switch closest to the right is turned on.  It will start the pump whether the thermostat is turned on or off.  I have no real clue that the Engine Heat switch is actually doing.  It did light up when I would turn it to the up position, but now it doesn't.   

I had believed that it might have opened a valve in the hot water lines, loop, to help preheat the engine when it was cold. 

I am also not positive that the system was installed properly.  Really why a 12 volt on off switch for engine preheat?  Where is the switch going to and what is it turning on and off?

Usually I only need AC, but I would like everything to work as it is designed.  The heat now works after you turn on the thermostat, the Hurricane switch, and the pump switch.  The fans are controlled by a separate fan switch that has high low and off speeds.

Engine Heat is a unknown for me.  The Coach is also currently winterized so there is no water in the water heater, but the heat ex changer loop is still hooked up.   As you know space is tight and following unmarked wires is challenging.

Thanks for the help everyone, and absolutely have a great Thanksgiving! 
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Technical Support / Re: Hurricane Engine Heat
« Last post by David T. Richelderfer on November 23, 2025, 10:27:59 PM »
In our coach, the two switches say "Diesel Burner" and "Engine PreHeat" leading to less confusion.  Carl's coach's switch simply says "Engine Heat", leading to the question of whether it needs to be ON for PRE-heating the engine or ON for heating the Hurricane's water/coolant from the engine.

BTW, we have an AquaHot, not a Hurricane, and both switches mentioned above have lights ON when switched ON.

On those rare occasions when we are "in the cold," an hour or so before starting the engine I will turn ON the AquaHot's Diesel Burner switch, then 15 minutes later turn ON the Engine PreHeat switch.  An hour lead time will warm up the engine to near 100F before starting it.


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Technical Support / Re: Hurricane Engine Heat
« Last post by Fred Brooks on November 23, 2025, 08:26:36 PM »
   Greetings Carl,
  The way the Hurricane is engineered and Beaver installed it has a loop of engine coolant going thru the water heater that heats the hot water. This is so you have hot water on demand in transit without running your Hurricane. There is an auxiliary coolant pump supplied by Hurricane that is mounted next to the Hurricane heater that is part of that loop. Here is how that works: When you turn on the Hurricane heater and you want to pre-heat your engine because it is wintertime, you turn on the switch in the consol that says engine preheat. This activates the auxiliary coolant pump. The Hurricane heater is now heating the water heater which in turn heats the engine coolant loop inside the water heater and then sends it to the engine block and then back to the water heater. This takes usually an hour to raise the engine coolant 10 degrees but is dependent upon outside ambient temperature. Never leave that Preheat switch in the ON position once you depart and start driving. If you forget, not only is the engine getting hot from throttle demand, but the Hurricane is also heating your engine thru the coolant loop inside your water heater. Hope this helps, Fred    BTW Happy Thanksgiving!
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Technical Support / Hurricane Engine Heat
« Last post by Carl Boger on November 23, 2025, 07:41:46 PM »
On my way home from Florida earlier this month, I discovered that my Hurricane heating system was not working.  Once I got home I bought and added about 1//2 gallon of boiler mix to the system.  This allowed the system to start and to continue running for over two hours raising the temp from the 60's to 77 degrees.  It cycled on and off normally so I moved on to the next problem of the Engine Heat light not coming on.

I tested the light and found it was burned out so I replaced the light.  Still no light.  I verified that the new bulb was good by hooking it up to 12 volts and it did light up.  I checked the wire to the back of the switch and over to the light and I am getting just under 12 volts there, 11.86 or there abouts.

When I was driving home I had the Engine Heat switch turned on and the Water Pump switch turned on.  The Engine heat light was lit up and the Water Pump at the Hurricane heating system was running.  It will back feed the light in the far right of the picture slightly illuminating it.  The Water Pump for the fresh water system lights it up fully when it is turned on so I believe that light is for the  fresh water pump.

Now down to my real question(s).  Is there a switch at the engine that opens when I turn on the Engine heat switch?  If so any idea where it might be?  The Hurricane operating manual is fairly generic and vague.  I rarely need to use the heating system so I have never turned it on much  unless I was also  exercising the generator.

My thought was that I needed to turn on the Hurricane Pump, and the Engine Heat switch to preheat the engine and to use the engine as a heat source while traveling.  I have traveled this way in the past and had heat in the coach.

Right now I believe the Engine Heat light will not turn on because whatever it is wired to is not working and completing the circuit.

Anything to point me in the right direction would be greatly appreciated.
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Technical Support / Re: Big slide doesn't extend, leveling system inop.
« Last post by Zeb Severson on November 23, 2025, 06:23:14 PM »
The settings for the generator will be controlled by the inverter controller. I have the original Xantrex and the controller is RC7 GS (manual in coach assist), that is the manual that will guide you through the auto start config versus the manual for the inverter.

One of the reasons why I shared the info about the batteries is due to the inverter/charger being over 20 years old if yours is original. For my setup I have a concern that the charger isn't charging as it should either in volts or amps. All other indications of the inverter seem like its working fine. But... by tracking the condition of the batteries you can have a better sense of where the root of the issue is.

Good luck with everything.
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Technical Support / Re: Big slide doesn't extend, leveling system inop.
« Last post by Nicholas Soldevere on November 23, 2025, 02:53:43 PM »
As a side note and providing just a bit more info. I had GoodSam roadside come out to do a jump. There was a solid 14vdc on the chassis batts and neither the engine or the gen would turn so, I'm confused in Dallas. I have a guy whos gets paid to work these kinds of issues. He's coming out to the rig on Tuesday. In the mean time I'm going to work on equalizing batteries. The house batts were pretty low on water so they might need a little help to get their "vigor" back.
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Technical Support / Re: Tom Pickett
« Last post by Tom Pickett on November 22, 2025, 05:00:57 PM »
fred
 i will call you Sunday morning
TOM
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Technical Support / Re: Big slide doesn't extend, leveling system inop.
« Last post by Nicholas Soldevere on November 22, 2025, 04:25:54 PM »
Since this is a new coach to you, and if your house batteries are flooded lead acid, I would highly recommend checking the water level. You might already know this, but the specific gravity and water level is very important to keep at the proper full level. This doesn't apply to sealed, AGM or lithium batteries.

Recommendation follows:

  • Start a spreadsheet to track the voltage and specific gravity of each battery and cell (see picture)
  • Buy a hyrdometer to check the specific gravity of each cell
  • Buy a gallon of distilled water
  • Number each battery and cell (1A-C, 2A-C, etc)
  • Test and record each battery voltage
  • Test and record the specific gravity of each cell
  • Fill any cell that might be low on water
  • If you have several cells that need a lot of water and or the specific gravity is low in your opinion, and or there is a wide range in the specific gravity of all the cells (I was told a range of 30 is worth equalizing) then equalizing the batteries might be helpful to keep them in good condition (I have Trojan batteries and called there support about equalizing and the tech said anytime you add water to equalize the batteries, take that for what it is worth. Also, we might have the same inverter and I don't trust it equalizes to a high enough voltage. I measured about .8v or more lover than what Trojan recommended to equalize at. It would be prudent to take all four batteries to get equalized at the same time. That would get you a good starting point.
  • Check and clean any of the battery connections.
  • Re check and record the batteries periodically

By going through all this trouble I can see 1. my battery condition has improved over the first year 2. An issue developed with cell 1C and that I need to replace that battery 3. Cell 3B is doing well so I might want to check my connections to make sure that there isn't an issue causing the one cell to go bad.

I can imagine you are have a lot going on sorting these issues out so I don't mean to pile stuff on, but with the batteries, they are critical to a lot of the house size functioning correctly.

Separate from the battery info, you might want to check the fuse for that circuit. Im surprised to see that cable so badly burned. If you do run into an issue with the pump itself I have the contact info for the company that made the pump and they were helpful when I called in the past to troubleshoot  the pump.

Thankyou Zeb, these Trojans are less then a year old and needed servicing, so I serviced them all up with fresh distilled. I have a charger coming that has an equalize function and start function, can be used for 6v or 12v batteries. I'm thinking before equalizing I should disconnect all draws and equalize each battery on its own. I haven't gone to the lengths of verifying specific gravity, I can see where this option makes good sense and allows a person to have a closer relationship with the battery system, which is a good thing since it seems batteries have extreme importance to the whole thing. The extent of my involvement to this point has been to keep them serviced. Interesting that the trojan guys recommend equalizing after every service.

Battery equalization is an intentional overcharge, primarily for flooded lead-acid batteries, that uses a higher-than-normal voltage to break down sulfate crystals and mix the electrolyte to restore capacity. It's a crucial maintenance step to prevent and reverse the damage caused by acid stratification and sulfation, which reduces the battery's lifespan and performance.

I'm wondering where the fuse would be for the hydraulic system, fuse box in the closet?

Nicholas
The reservoir is filled through the black cap you see in your picture below the solenoid, the cap screws off .
Its a bit of a pain to get to but it can be done with a transmission funnel or a suction gun,
Not sure about your location but the pump and tank on mine are located to the left rear corner of the battery bay just ahead of the service bay and is more readily accessed from the battery bay side.

The inverter should charge the batteries just fine inside of a day or two ( if they are lead acid this would be a good time to check the electrolyte level in each cell and top them up with distilled water if necessary.

Others here can speak more accurately on your AGS but my thought would be it is likely not turned on or setup properly .
Or in some of the Beaver coaches the AGS was wired incorrectly with its voltage sense wire connected to the chassis battery bank instead of the house battery bank, not sure yours would be one of those.

Hope this helps
Eric

Thankyou Eric, the cap wouldn't come off and is broken, Ill have to see if I can find a replacement. The cap goes on and covers the fill hole but it needs to be replaced.  Ill get down in there and check fluid level today.

I believe this is a battery issue, everything has been starting and running just fine all week. As I said the power was off at the storage lot for how long I don't know. The inverter was enabled and the domestic fridge runs off a receptacle with inverter power so, I believe the fridge ran the house batteries down. The chassis batteries on the other hand, there was a couple 12v draws I found that I believe pulled them down. I installed a Xantrex trickle charger that should keep the chassis up and has, but I don't think it could keep up with the amount of draw apparently.

All of these batteries house and chassis are new within the year, house being Trojans, chassis, Continentals.
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Technical Support / Tom Pickett
« Last post by Fred Cook on November 22, 2025, 02:57:38 PM »
Hey Tom, could you please give me a call at 573 528-5203? I have the same coach as you and I am in need of advice on how to handle a similar leakage problem you had with your vanity flexible drain hose. Thanks, Fred
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Technical Support / Plumbing schematic
« Last post by Fred Cook on November 22, 2025, 01:33:34 PM »
Does anyone know where I can find the plumbing schematics for my 2008 Patriot Thunder. Particularly interested where the flexible drain hose in the slide vanity marries up to the fixed plumbing leading to the gray water tank.
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