Ciruit Breaker is starting to trip

[Minor Cross]

Hi everyone,
All of a sudden the circuit breaker for the dinette, computer desk and TV has started to trip.  I've replaced the breaker, so I am thinking that there is a wiring issue that  is causing the trip.  I have removed all the cords plugged into the outlets and still it will not stay on.  I don't have a wiring diagram, and  I am assuming that the outlets that I can see and isolate are the only ones on the circuit.
Anyone else had this problem?  Any ideas???  

In the cabinet for the radio/amp and dish receiver, there's two duplex outlets.  There's a wall-wart for the IR system, and a power plug for the radio/amp and one for the dish receiver.  There's also a third plug end that I haven't identified what it is for.  I thought the TV. It's not!   There is a separate duplex outlet up behind the TV.  I've removed the cord to the TV, but the breaker still trips.
Sometimes it will stay on for several hours and then go to a mode where it stays on for seconds before tripping.   GRRRRRR!

Thanks in advance for your help

Minor
2006 40' Beaver Monterey
Currently at VDO in Mesa, AZ for the winter.

[Frank Bannert]

I had this problem on my last MH and it was the change over switch on the inverter that was giving me the problem. But it was on my duplexes for the coffeemaker and bathroom etc. I  changed the GFCI outlet and to no avail. Had a electrician come over and he did something to make it switch over and had no problem after that. Try useing the genset and see if the plugs stay on if so it probably is your changeover switch as well.




Frank

[Joel Ashley]

Hey, Minor.  Which model Monterey do you have?  I can scan and send you that section of my wiring diagram.  Most models are the same, but there are differences in the Ventura and Montclair from the other 3 models.  Generally, if your refer has an icemaker, it is part of the circuit in question, as is the dinette and an optional outlet and sconce.  

Did you try unplugging the refer icemaker at its receptacle?  There are two receptacles behind the outside refer access door - one for the refer itself when it runs on electric, and one seperate receptacle above or below the other one that's for just the icemaker part of the refer.  The refer outlet is on its own independent circuit entirely, not the audio/video and dinette circuit - in fact the refer is off the 240v Main panel and not off the inverter's panel like its icemaker is.

I can't recall whether the ice maker receptacle is a GFCI or not, but if so Frank was right in checking his out because they can go bad;  so you might look into that since it is first in line in your troublesome circuit.
Joel

[Minor Cross]

Thanks everyone for the suggestions!   I unplugged the ice maker and Viola!  The load across the hot/neutral went away.  Hooked everything up and we're running (2 hours so far).  We're defrosting the freezer ( I say we,  I'm doing my part by staying out of the way!  Ha ha).   Once we've gone 24 hours I'll try the ice maker and see what happens.

Joel, if you would scan and email the diagram you have that would be wonderful.   I have a 2006 40' Monterey Pacifica, quad slide and 400hp Cat

Thanks again everyone

Minor

[Joel Ashley]

I reckon the icemaker drive motor, which is designed to be on for only a short time, can overheat if the feed mechanism is jammed by built-up ice;  that may be causing the high amp draw.

One thing the manual mentions but many people don't realize is that you can limit the frost build-up (and it can get pretty darned substantial) by remembering to shut off the icemaker before hitting the road, and turning it back on upon camping.  Make it part of your routine, like leveling, unplugging/plugging, and slides in/out.  Just flip the icemaker's wire bail up about 90 minutes before departing.  This makes sure that any water in the cube tray is frozen, not liquid.  It's water, splashing out from the tray while the coach negotiates turns and bumps, that adds to the frost buildup the most, and can ultimately sieze the mechanism even when the bail-down position still calls for it to cycle.

Regarding defrosting - I believe that side of the system uses 12v. heaters.  If your battery voltage is low for some reason, the heaters won't work;  but if you're plugged into AC power, the batteries should be up to snuff for defrosting anyway.  The unit automatically defrosts the freezer once a day, and if you've set the clock, I believe it defrosts overnight at some hour which I used to know but have forgotten.  The thing is, ice build-up from road splashing is likely on mechanism and freezer parts that aren't along the wall surfaces where the defrost heaters work.

You can force a manual defrost cycle anytime by switching OFF the refrigerator with the ON/OFF button;  then press and hold the AUTO/STORE button and press the ON/OFF button;  "dE Fr" should come up on the display.  That said, I've found that the extra defrost cycling simply won't work if there is already too much ice built up, esp. away from wall surfaces as I mentioned previously.  You just have to do it the old fashioned way - chipping and melting.  But be careful you don't scratch or harm something while doing any chipping.  It's best to keep an eye on the icemaker regularly, and not let it build up in the first place.

There is, of course, the chance that there is some other cause for the icemaker overload, and defrosting may not correct it;  perhaps a fault in its circuit board or a short in the circuit somewhere.

Joel

[Robert Mathis]

My circuit breaker just started tripping this weekend (same circuit) and my refer went over to gas. I unplugged everything, including the icemaker and fridge, and it still tripped. The weather was damp and it had been raining all night. After driving home from the Keys, and in the dryer part of Florida, the breaker would reset and not trip for a while. I turned the fridge off and reset the breaker. This morning, it was tripped again. Any thoughts?