Air powered stairwell cover won't retract

[Michelle Jensen]

We have a 1998 Beaver Patriot Ticonderoga and are having issues with the stairwell cover.  It has no problem sliding out to cover the stairs, but very rarely will retract when we push the button.  You can hear the air being expressed when you push the button; it just doesn't move.  We've tried pushing it in, which has actually worked a couple times.  But even then, it took several days before we could get it to budge.  There was another time we couldn't get it in no matter what we tried; only to have it go shooting in after I turned the engine on a couple days later.  We have two dogs over 50lbs that need to go in and out so we are trying to avoid touching it at all costs until we can get it figured out.  Oh! And I admit that this could also be due to 'User Error' because we don't know how the system actually works.  Any advice is greatly appreciated!

Thanks!
-Michelle

[Robert Mielenz]

We had a 97 Patriot with a similar problem. (would not retract)  The air cylinder arm under the step cover hung up on a protrusion. It is visible looking under the extended cover from the ground. (easily visible) Used a small pry bar to move the arm. Removed the problem item and problem fixed.

[Eric Maclean]

Michelle
The step slide is an air cylinder which is controlled by an air solenoid valve and pressure regulator mounted on the passenger side firewall ( outside)
 I'd check to see that you are getting proper operation at the solenoid valve .

Hope this helps
Eric

[Keith Moffett]

On our 98 the air control manifold for the step cover was in the electrical bay on the front wall.
We had similar issues and a replacement manifold resolved them.

[Fred Brooks]

     Michelle,
  The solenoid device is where Keith said on the forward wall of the outside compartment below the drivers window. First of all, the air pressure should be above 90 lbs. That is the green needle on the dash gauge. Have someone push the extend/retract switch while the compartment door is open to locate the solenoid valve. You will see exhaust adjustment screws to regulate how fast the slide cover moves. Sometimes they get plugged up with debris from not draining your air tanks of moisture or rust junk gets in there. More frequent issue is you have parked, put the step cover out and the air pressure has leaked out and now it will not retract. Then you start your engine, air pressure builds up above 90 psi and the cover comes in. Thought we would start there, please advise and hope this helps, Fred

[David Ciotti]

I had a similar issue with my 2002 Marquis.  The cover would not extend or retract but I could hear the solenoid activating.  I used Fred's method to find the device outside under the drivers seat and ordered a replacement valve from Norgren at norgren.com part number  K71DA00KS6K121W1.  The part number was not visible until I removed the device from the firewall.  It was expensive ~$150 but the problem is fixed.  I tried repairing the old valve but the tools I need to fix it are at home.

[Carl Boger]

Michelle,

On my 1998 Patriot Savannah the air control valve is on the firewall in front of the passenger seat area.  It is accessed from outside, and it is a little hard to reach.  I have attached a picture of my original air control valve with part number K71DA00KS6KU2. If you order one make sure the solenoid on it is compatible with your wiring.  The replacement shipped to me a couple of years ago had a 110 volt solenoid, not a 12 volt one.  I switched it form the original.

Now the bad news for me/us is after airing my system up from my air compressor my slide is not working again.  The valve is available from Norgren but it is a 11 day process and $210.00

I have emailed them to see if a cheaper unit could be substituted, and to make sure it has the correct solenoid.  I will let you know if they respond. 

just so you know on mine I have replaced the 1997 air cylinder, the 1997 air control valve, and the bottom 2 bimba valves.  The only thing I got a deal on was the NOS air control valve.  Looks like it wasn't a deal after all.  It worked but was slow and sluggish.  Now its not working again.

Just letting you know all of the so you hopefully end up with quality replacements.

[Carl Boger]

Not to hijack this thread, but a question on the installation. It seem to me this would also benefit the original poster.
  My original air control valve had 3 -1/4 inch ports on top the one in the center brings in the air supply.  The two on the outsides are just open to the atmosphere, even though they are threaded.  Should these be plugged?  I just removed and replaced the air control  valve last time and did not plug them.  Since this has failed so quickly it seems to me that it might be better to keep the contaminants out by plugging the two unused top ports.

Thanks for any insight from those who have done this before.

[Eric Maclean]

Carl
The open ports may be exhaust ports to allow the air back out of the cylinders none powered side one for each side of the piston.

[Michelle Jensen]

Thank you everyone.  We will start with all your advice and hopefully that will take care of the problem.  I'll let you know what ends up fixing it.

[Carl Boger]

Michelle,

To add to what I have already written after becoming a little bit more of an expert today,  Make sure that your slide's track is not blocked with anything!   The problem with my slide out was that it was pinched! 

JFI,  I started out by unscrewing the top incoming air line.  I then screwed a male air fitting into that port and hooked up my air compressor to that port.  I hit the switch and it didn't move,  I did not know that my air compressor had tripped the breaker, my bad!  Tried hooking the air line straight to the air cylinder hose to push it out, Nothing!  Still did not know I had tripped the breaker.  got some channel locks and pulled the slide out and pushed it back in several times.  There was more resistance than I thought there should have been.  This led me to cleaning out the channel which freed up the slide.

After I figured out that the breaker was tripped and got the air pressure up the slide worked like it should.

I don't know if you will be as lucky, but I would first make sure that the slide is not gummed up with trash and that it can move freely.    If it can, I would put a air compressor line to the incoming  air port on the air control valve.    If it still doesn't work your air control valve may be bad.

I took loose and replaced more parts than I needed to, but it is ready to go again.  I also had not cranked or moved it until today from last year.  Got a good run in letting my wife drive for the first time, next trip is April so ready to go with a spare driver.

[Joel Ashley]

I’ll be backing up Carl’s comments here.  When our coach was new we had a problem with the stairwell cover.  BCS under warranty simply cleaned the side channels which I guess were occluded with various manufacturing debris.  As I recall they did a little alignment tweaking, but it’s worked fine ever since.  Whenever I vacuum I’ve tried to put a little effort into the channels too.

Joel

[Michelle Jensen]

Hello everyone, well I finally had some time to look into your suggestions.  I wasn't able to see or hear anything under the driver's side; but instead heard the sound coming out of this [see pics] which is inside the front panel under the windshield on the passenger side.  I'm guessing from the pictures posted and description on how to locate, this is it ??  Please let me know if it is and if so, what would need replaced or adjusted?  Also, is this something easy to replace like the windshield wiper fluid pump or should it be replaced by a mechanic??  Thanks guys for your help!

-Michelle

[Joel Ashley]

That's probably the air control valve that Eric and others mentioned.  Just because it makes noise does not mean it is haywire.  I'd still suspect a physical jam or hangup of the slide mechanism, either in the side channels or the drive cylinder as some posted about here.  It is a common malady and often not too difficult to alay.  Also check any accessible airlines for integrity.  If the solenoid makes the air sound each time you press a switch, then your issue is probably not electrical.  If its a jam in the channels or a stuck piston drive, air may be making the hissing sound forced elsewhere out instead of moving the piston.  If you don't hear the valve each time, then I'd be looking more to a bad electrical connection between the switch and the solenoid, especially a loose or otherwise compromised hig-resistance ground.

Joel
GO BEAVS!!  Scratch Oklahoma.  Scratch Loyola!!!

[Carl Boger]

That is your air control valve, the box on the top right is your solenoid.  Before your replace it screw in a 1/4 inch air fitting where the top line now comes in and put a air hose directly to it at 120lbs or so.  Hit your switch and see if it will slide. If is does you have a air pressure issue.  If it doesn't take off the lower right fitting and rig it up to supply air from the compressor straight to the cylinder.  Does it open?  If not you have either a jammed channel or a weak cylinder. 

It is a 1998 like mine and I had to replace my cylinder.  The good news is they still make them, but they are special order items. My old cylinder still went in and out, but it did leak around the internal seal, and they are not rebuildable.    In case you can not see it in the picture the number is SR-0427-DPW.  There is a SI under that.  Mine went from easing out to coming out with some force.  To get to the cylinder you have to remove a plate under the floor near the drivers area. It will be under your carpet or flooring. You can see where it is from under the slide. Check for air leaks before you go to the trouble of taking any thing out or loose. 

This can be done by most people, but if it is like mine you will have to reach for it and it is a little hard to access.  That is about all there is to the system.  Even now mine can use a tap of the foot to get it to retract, but it now has much more force.