Refer Not working right

[Don Hircock]

For some reason refer will not kick over to electric from LP.  I hit the mode button to put it to AC and it starts beeping and says no AC.  Have turned it off and back on.  Have unplugged and plugged back in.  That tops out my knowledge of what to do.  Any ideas?  It is a 2005 Norcold 1200LRIM 4 door.  Yes, it has had all the recalls taken care of unless there is a new one in the past 8 months that I'm not aware of.

[Joel Ashley]

Check the 20 amp house breaker for the fridge in the 50 Amp Main breaker box, probably in your bathroom, Don.  

Also check to see if the fridge is plugged into its outlet, accessible through the outside fridge door.  If you have an icemaker, both it and the fridge itself each have there own cords back there (when you say you unplugged and plugged back in, I don't know if you mean the fridge or the coach).  There is another 12v fuse for the fridge in the bathroom 12v. block, but it is likely for the gas ignition, automatic switchover control, and panel readout, and not involved with your problem since you can obviously read the panel.

Do you have Alternating Current (120v) in the coach at all;  ie, does the microwave or the big light on the kitchen ceiling work?  If not, check on your power source at the post by looking for flipped breakers, or use a meter to check the outlet.

-Joel

[Bernie Vujicic]

Just a thought, is your inverter on?

[Joel Ashley]

The fridge isn't on an inverted circuit.  That's why its breaker is in the 50 Amp Main box, and not the inverter's 30 Amp box.

-Joel

[Don Hircock]

We are plugged into 50 amp and all appliances, including washing machine which is running right now is working.  I unplugged and ice maker and refer cord and plugged back in.  I manually try to change it to AC from the LP and it reads out on the panel, no ac.  Just called coach-net and I'd already done everything that that could suggest other than calling repair.  Just wondering what repair you think it might be.  I plugged a light into the refer and ice maker outlets and it is a o.k.  Thanks for the help.

Don

[Joel Ashley]

Sounds like an internal fault in the fridge, if you have power at the outlet but the unit still thinks there is no AC available.  Did you call Norcold for their input?  Refer control circuit boards, like hot water heater circuit boards, often fail.  Though not cheap as parts go, it's not as bad as if you had to get a new cooling unit, and it likely is something you can replace yourself.  But, of course, make certain it isn't something else first.

-Joel

[Ken Kruse]

Norcold has an 8 Amp AC glass cartridge fuse on the power board (in the black box) on the back of the refrigerator.  Refer to the operators guide for instructions on safely changing the fuse, or let a Norcold Service Center handle the job for you.  A blown fuse here would give you the “NO AC” you are getting.  Good luck on getting it to work the way it should.

[Jim Shaw]

Ken is correct, I remember now that I had the same problem and it was the fuse under the cover. A little hard to get to but not a problem if you are careful.
Jim

[Don Hircock]

Thanks guys, right on.  My fuse seems to be a 5 amp and was blown.  Tried another and it blew.   To get it back to working the fuse and heat elements were replaced.  All is back to happy land again and I have ac-ok.  

[Larry Fisk]

Great news!!

[Joel Ashley]

Glad you're back in business, Don.

I could check my schematic, but does anyone know offhand whether Dometic's units have a similar fuse?  I would assume something would be in place in case of a heater short circuit, and the 20 amp fridge breaker way upstream is likely not alone.

-Joel

[Joel Weiss]

Another reason why we're having our Norcold replaced with a residential unit next month. Refrigerators should simply run when plugged in; they shouldn't have to be constant sources of aggravation!