Where can I drill on body??

[RogerMilne]

I'm a complete noob, when it comes to this vehicle. I'm very capable technically and mechanically, BUT, the coach part of the learning curve is still pretty shallow, so please excuse the simplistic aspect of some of my inquiries.

That being said, what are the roof and side walls limitations as far as drilling a hole of screwing something into those surfaces?

Is there any absolute NoNo's as far as say mounting something on the sides or the roof, that will cause damage to underlying components. I don't have the luxury of having seen how these coaches are constructed so unlike a house where I know studs are 16" on center or where there are plumbing or electrics behind dry wall etc, What is the rule for adding something to a wall on the inside or externally or if I want to mount a bracket or something on the rooftop.

Thanks for the info.

[David T. Richelderfer]

This link takes you to the 2007 Contessa brochure.  In it you will find lots of details regarding the construction materials used.  The brochure might help, don't know.  I don't know where to find more complete details without contacting the Beaver store in Bend, OR.

chrome-extension://efaidnbmnnnibpcajpcglclefindmkaj/https://www.beaveramb.org/resources/Documents/Technical%20Forum/Coach%20Assist/2007-Contessa-Brochure.pdf

[RogerMilne]

Thank you for the tip.

[Carl Boger]

Roger,

On the big assumption that your MH is built like mine.  The roof is fiberglass about 1/4 inch thick, and then 3/4 plywood, then about 5 inches of white foam then a 1//4 or so of plywood on the ceiling.  There is metal framing that the plywood sits on and is screwed down to.  As long as you are comfortable adding holes to your roof drill pretty much wherever you want.  Use dicor or another sealant to go below the screws and mounts and to cover the tops after.

The side walls are 1/4 inch fiberglass attached to a steel frame with 2 inches of foam and a 1/4 inch of interior plywood.  It is all vacuum sealed together as one piece.  Here you might want to use a good stud finder and locate the metal framing screwing into it.  Not sure what you are wanting to attach to the sides as I have never done it. 

Hopefully this will help you some, I totally get not wanting to make a expensive mistake. 

[RogerMilne]

Roger,

On the big assumption that your MH is built like mine.  The roof is fiberglass about 1/4 inch thick, and then 3/4 plywood, then about 5 inches of white foam then a 1//4 or so of plywood on the ceiling.  There is metal framing that the plywood sits on and is screwed down to.  As long as you are comfortable adding holes to your roof drill pretty much wherever you want.  Use dicor or another sealant to go below the screws and mounts and to cover the tops after.

The side walls are 1/4 inch fiberglass attached to a steel frame with 2 inches of foam and a 1/4 inch of interior plywood.  It is all vacuum sealed together as one piece.  Here you might want to use a good stud finder and locate the metal framing screwing into it.  Not sure what you are wanting to attach to the sides as I have never done it. 

Hopefully this will help you some, I totally get not wanting to make a expensive mistake.

Ok, Thank you. This is exactly what I was looking for.
As for what I'm fastening to walls or roof etc..I'm not..Yet. But there's stuff on my roof that I'm looking into removing and wanted to know what I'd be opening up myself to, once the components are removed.

[Eric Maclean Co-Admin]

Roger
Your roofs outer skin is a1/4 inch of gel coated fiberglass laid over or I should say impregnated into a layer of 1/4 inch marine plywood .
It is what is referred to as a floating skin roof meaning that outter skin is floating ( not laminated or glued to the foam and substructure below it.
You may find sections of the roof that appear to be loose or have bubbles or pockets under it this is normal as the roof is ment to be able to move somewhat
Except of course where it is fastend in place along the drip rails and vent ETC.in these places it is important to periodically check for loose or broken/ rusted off screws particularly at the side drip rails.

In most cases the vents and skylights are surrounded by wood structure 2x material  which was used as part of the substructure and gives the vent or skylight something substantial to be screw into. But most other add ons like satellite dishes,solar panels ETC. are simply just screwed into the roof skin which is usually 3/8 to a 1/2 inch in total thickness and adequate for the job.

When removing anything from the roof it is important to seal the screw holes or any openings left behind using a good quality roof sealant like Dicore.

Hope this helps
Eric

[RogerMilne]

Roger
Your roofs outer skin is a1/4 inch of gel coated fiberglass laid over or I should say impregnated into a layer of 1/4 inch marine plywood .
It is what is referred to as a floating skin roof meaning that outter skin is floating ( not laminated or glued to the foam and substructure below it.
You may find sections of the roof that appear to be loose or have bubbles or pockets under it this is normal as the roof is ment to be able to move somewhat
Except of course where it is fastend in place along the drip rails and vent ETC.in these places it is important to periodically check for loose or broken/ rusted off screws particularly at the side drip rails.

In most cases the vents and skylights are surrounded by wood structure 2x material  which was used as part of the substructure and gives the vent or skylight something substantial to be screw into. But most other add ons like satellite dishes,solar panels ETC. are simply just screwed into the roof skin which is usually 3/8 to a 1/2 inch in total thickness and adequate for the job.

When removing anything from the roof it is important to seal the screw holes or any openings left behind using a good quality roof sealant like Dicore.

Hope this helps
Eric

Hi Eric,

Thanks for the details and info. Exactly the kind of info I was needing.