Cat C12 crank no start again

[Jose Rita]

Hi all, my 2002 Patriot with Cat C12 is stuck at the mechanics with a no start.  Brought it in for service…wheel bearing,  now stuck in bay with a no start.  Cranks fine with no codes present. I have the Racor fuel system.   I did have a no start when filters were changed early this year but has been running fine since.  I have put in about 800 miles. I am lost.  Been in the shop over a week now.

Thank you

[Eric Maclean Co-Admin]

Jose
A crank with no start is usually a fuel issue if the coach drove into the shop it's likely that there is air in the fuel system causing the no start.
The first thing to do is run the priming pump on your Racor fuel separator to bleed the air from the fuel system
The Racor fuel separators have a plastic sight glass which is sealed at either end with "O" rings which are known to leak allowing the system to suck air into it this may be the source of  your problem .

Eric

[Jose Rita]

Eric, thank you for the suggestion, we will try purging any air out.  Hopefully that is the case and if it is, any recommendations or suggestions on replacing it with a more dependable system.

[Eric Maclean Co-Admin]

Jose
The biggest problem like I said is with the o ring seals on that sight glass there have been many posts on the topic in the past which will give you part numbers for the o rings .
Some other posts will suggest replacing the fuel separator completely with a Cat part

https://beaveramb.org/forum/index.php/topic,10590.msg72127.html#msg72127

https://beaveramb.org/forum/index.php/topic,5891.msg44028.html#msg44028

Jose also check out the coach assist section of the forum library for the Racor manuals, and check common problems for the Racor issue and Cat replacement.

Hope this helps
Eric

[Mike Hallgrimson]

Did you get this resolved? I had this happen on my 2003 Patriot Thunder C12. I had a relay on the ECM that was dislodged. The ECM board was next to the coach battery. Sliding the battery tray in hit the relay and dislodged it.

[Jose Rita]

Sorry its been a while.  I just got the rv home.  The mechanic checked and not a fuel related issue. He believes it is an electrical issue, it did start and he was able to complete his work I had it there for well over a month for new wheel bearings followed by all air bags replaced…pretty penny.  The no start issue really set him back and backorder on air bags.  Bringing it back home I noticed that the dash lights would flicker once in a while so he was in the right direction.  I will try to look at the grounds and fuses while here and will after getting some OT in,  if I cant find, send it back to him.

Thank you all fir the help and suggestions

[Carl Boger]

Jose,

I would unplug the main plug behind the electrical panel under the drivers seat area and clean the two halves with electrical  contact cleaner.  i also used mig welding tip cleaning rods and wire brushes to get the area  as clean as possible.  I then used dielectric grease around the halves and used a zip tie to keep it together and tight. 

I have done this once or twice in the last 8 or so years and it has fixed the flickering lights no start problem for me.  if on the road I can generally just twist/push the connection and it will start.  Hasn't been a problem for years now and hopefully it won't again.

[Jose Rita]

Carl, thank you that was it.

[Carl Boger]

Jose,

I'm glad it worked for you.  Those wires have to travel a long way and any connections can be suspect after a few years.

[Joel Ashley]

This would not be a bad tool set to have on hand for pin cleaning, and good for other small filing or electronic device decorrosion tasks (Find at Amazon):

Innovative Products 8042 Female Bullet Connector Cleaner Set - 12 Piece , Red .

Other “kits”, not quite as spendy, are available.  I have one for trailer connectors, but the tools are all much too large for the cylindrical multi-pin type conversed here.  There are also tools designed for removal and replacement of pins and sockets in their cylinders if ever necessary.

Carl’s suggestion of dielectric grease on pins, or any reassemblage, is well advised, or use DeoxIT (7.4ml bottle);  for automotive, ambient air-exposed applications, the grease is probably best.  A can of electronics cleaner spray is handy, and Corrosion-X spray on air-exposed connection in any bay works well.

Joel