SHOWER REPAIR

[Fred Nikirk]

How do I remove the wood trim on the inside of my skylight in my shower?  I have a 2001 PT Princeton.

Thanks Fred & Angie

[Gerald Farris]

Fred,
The shower skylight trim on your coach is secured in the same manner that the trim for your Fantastic Fans is. There are small finishing nails through the lower face of the "L" shaped trim molding. To remove it you will have to very carefully pull down on the skylight side of the molding as you gently pry on the side that is against the ceiling fabric. The molding will need to come down evenly since it is glued together as one piece. When the molding is down the filler panels between the molding and the skylight will come down with the shims that were installed between them and the framing to insure a snug fit.

Gerald

[Fred Nikirk]

Gerald
thank you for the info. I will give that a try.
fred

[Bill Johnson]

A few years ago we replaced our wood trim "surround" with molded plastic.  We got tired of having to deal with issues related to water on wood.  We got the replacement from Beaver Coach Sales and all is well.  As Gerald says, probably the only "issue" is prying the finishing nails out of the original trim.  Once that is removed and a replacement secured, it is a pretty easy fix.
Bill

[Edward Buker]

I have found it helpful to hot melt glue the shims back in place and to number as many as I can with location and outlines on the motorhome framing as I take the trim apart. I trim the pins (fasteners) flush on the backside of the trim pieces with wire cutters (d**es). I drill the trim pieces and countersink the holes and use flush colored trim screws to put the trim back. It looks fine and makes access  a second time around much easier.  

Later Ed

[Dave Blystone]

I just did mine, because I needed to replace the shower dome.  I took a Dremel detail sander with the blade attachment, to all the caulk on the dome.  Removed the screws, and then removed the dome.  After the dome was removed, I used the Dremel tool to cut the brads holding the trim in place.  I simply ran the blade behind the trim, to cut the brads.  I then cut white 1/4 in starboard the same size as the boards.  I tacked them in place, putting the brads low, so the trim would cover them.  Then I put  the trim back, using small brads.  After refinishing it with spray polyurethane, the job took an afternoon to do, and wasn't hard at all.
  
Dave B
'01 patriot 33

[Fred Nikirk]

Bill Johnson
did the plastic come as a kit or did you have to build it yourself
fred

[Bill Johnson]

It came as a "surround" -- all one piece.  The only cutting that I had to do was "shape" it to fit the slope of the ceiling -- really a very easy job.  And, the color matches the interior:  sort of a light almond.  I never could figure why wood was used for the surround in that area in the first place and now cleanup is so easy.  

[Fred Nikirk]

I removed the trim. There apears to be two domes the skylight is sealed good. I seem to be getting condesation between the skylight and the shower domes. the shower dome doesnt appearto be sealed to the roof and leaks down the wood trim. Should it be sealed from the inside before replacing the trim.
fred

[Edward Buker]

I have not had a dome replacement project yet but I was under the assumption that the two layers were bonded together and that you should not be getting moisture between them. Maybe someone who has replaced one can comment on the construction. If they are one piece and a sealed unit I would do all my main caulking on the outside.

 In cold weather even with the two layers you will probably get some condensation on the inside that will run down. If there is a convenient way to lightly caulk with some clear silicone on the inside to direct that moisture to the surface of trim where it will not get behind the trim panels that would be worth the effort.

Later Ed

[Tom and Pam Brown]

Ed, when I replaced mine and it was a sealed one piece unit.

[Joel Ashley]

Yup, I brought the same problem up in a thread/post some months ago.  There is water between the two domes, even though they are sealed together.  It has become worse with time, and in the winter the moisture, that fogs the panels in summer, condenses into a puddle on the downhill side.  I can't find any point of entry on the outside where the unit is well sealed to the roof and not even a hairline crack in the dome.  This issue cropped up in the second year of three years of the rig being stored, the shower unused, and various humidity control devices inside.  

I was worried that if moisture was somehow getting into the dome, it could be finding its way between roof panels.  And I was considering drilling weep holes on the shower side to drain it, but was advised that replacing a complete dome was not expensive nor difficult.  I'll probably just have Beaver Coach Sales do a thorough roof inspection and dome replacement next spring when I'm in for service and other minor repairs.  Hopefully the tech will discover the point of the vapor intrusion, for future preventive considerations.

http://forum.bacrallies.com/m-1303166935/s-0/highlight-shower+skylight/#num0

Joel

[Gerald Farris]

Fred,
The skylight is two layers, the top layer is tinted, and the lower layer is clear. This is done to prevent heat from being trapped between the layers in bright sunlight. Both layers are the same outside dimension, and they are bonded together if it is the original skylight. Most replacements are also bonded together, however there are a few aftermarket manufacturers that do not bond the layers together.

The skylight is sealed on the roof and should not need to be sealed on the inside of the coach. If the skylight is getting excessive amounts of moisture between the layers, there is probably a crack in the outer layer, or a leak in the seam on the roof.

Moisture damage to the trim around the skylight is normally caused by condensation from a hot shower. So if you stick to cold showers, your shower trim wood will last a lot longer.

Gerald    

[Dave Blystone]

 I bet if your dome is over 10 years old, it is brittle under the caulk, and a hair line crack is leaking.   The dome is two layer, 1 piece, and not hard to change, but if you have somebody change it, be prepared to pay for 5 hrs work.  The old caulk removal is the hardest part of the job.  The new dome has different holes than the old one.   You must put caulk on the old holes, then  the putty tape to seal it.  After it is screwed down, you used a self leveling caulk to seal the edges.  It took me a long afternoon to finish , but I replaced the 1/4 in trim boards on the inside also.

dave b
2001 patriot 33
3126 cat