City water valve replacemnt

[Adam Hicklin]

So the city water fill valve began to leak, first when the system was pressurized by the water pump, now all the time.  A constant trickle.  I thought this valve would be easily replaced by removing the four screws which secure it.  Not so easy.  Apparently there are nuts on the back side of these four bolts.  I don't see another way to get behind there other than taking that whole front panel off.  Getting behind from the water pump side looks even more difficult.  Am I missing something obvious?  Any tips on removing that front panel?  Any other words of wisdom?  As always, thanks for your help.

[John Hennessey]

My husband just replaced ours last week.  He had to loosen the front panel until it could tip forward.  You can access the bolts and the water line that connects in back

[Adam Hicklin]

Did he have to remove the gold colored valve control knobs?  They look like they fit over the cover.

[John Hennessey]

No there is enough flexibility to tip the panel forward just remove the screws around the edge of the panel

[Adam Hicklin]

I'll give that's try.  Thanks.  

[Dave Cunningham]

Adam, I have had that panel off probably twenty times, in the process of fixing leaks, installing a powered hose reel, fixing the cable, ect. Just disconnect the right hand support strut from its bottom mount , undo the eight screws and pull the top towards you.

Dave

[Gary Nash]

Adam - Did you try & remove the paper towel holder. There is a big hole behind it & you should be able to access the nuts.

[Adam Hicklin]

I'll try that Gary.  I ordered the part today.  Should be here tomorrow.
Dave, by "right hand support strut" are you referring to the door support strut?  I think I'm worried about being able to pull it out enough to do the work with the valve control knobs in place.  It doesn't look like there is much wiggle room there.  I guess I'll find out soon.

Thanks for the suggestions.  I really appreciate it.  

[Gerald Farris]

Adam,
The gold knobs just pull off, however that will not be necessary unless you disconnect the manifolds that are bolted to the back of the stainless steel panel. The easiest way is to just remove the four screws from the paper towel holder and use the hole behind it as the access point.

Gerald

[Adam Hicklin]

Ah, I didn't realize the valve manifold was attached to the back of the cover.  That makes a little more sense.  Gerald, this valve has a built in pressure regulator, correct?  Could the trickle of water be an indication that the pressure regulator is faulty?  The water pressure has seemed barely adequate.  

[Gerald Farris]

Adam,
Yes, the city water inlet has a built-in regulator, however the water leak that you have is from a faulty check valve that is also part of the inlet. So the pressure regulator section of the inlet, has nothing to do with the water leak.

Your original inlet had a 50 PSI built-in regulator, and if you want a little better water flow, I would replace it with the 65 PSI regulator that is now available as a replacement. The other alternative is to replace it with an inlet that only has a check valve and no regulator, and always use a high flow Watts adjustable regulator at the campground facet to control the water pressure. This setup will give you the highest water flow possible.

Gerald    

[Tom and Pam Brown]

Where did you get the replacement part.

[Adam Hicklin]

It's made by Shurflo.  Ordered it off Amazon.  65psi.  Although I'm now thinking maybe going with an external regulator that may allow more flow.  This never ends.

www.amazon.com/SHURflo-183-029-14-Chrome-Pressure-Regulator/dp/B002OUPFOU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1367373180&sr=8-1&keywords=shurflo+water+inlet

[Adam Hicklin]

Although I haven't been able to find the same design (to replace the leaking one) that is just a check valve with no pressure regulator.