Replacement ladder for a 2000 Pat Thunder

[Bill Borden]

Help, I am in need of a replacement ladder, while attempting to climb up to the roof recently the right side of the ladder (vertical) gave away.

So I have contacted Beaver up in Bend and my local RV repair shop.  The RV shop quoted $450.00 plus freight(?), tax and $140.00 to install.  This is a custom ladder from Topline.

Bend quoted $485. plus $175.00 freight, no tax, this is also custom ladder but from Christianson Industries.

The original ladder was from Topline.

In checking the Forum, I did not see anything recent regarding a replacement ladder.

So I was wondering if I can get some help in locating a source for a good ladder, Has anyone had success in obtaining a replacement ladder for your coach?
I have seen the $100.00 ones at Camping World and other on line sources. I not sure if they would be the same or lessor quality.

Any info will greatly be accepted, with thanks.

(Presently my ladder hinges above the engine hatch and pins to the bumper when down. )

Regards,

Bill

[Edward Buker]

Ideally you would want an exact replacement to go back in the same holes and made from the same Mfg template. Is it possible to take your current ladder off and go to a metal shop and have them remake the defective side seeing they have a good side and the steps already. Seems like Topline could also supply that formed vertical for the defective side that is now needed as parts, worth a call.

Later Ed

[Bill Borden]

Makes sense Ed, I will talk to TopLine and see what they say, thanks for the input.

Bill

[Joel Ashley]

I have to agree with Ed.  

My stepson accidentally bent the outside vertical stanchion on the ladder of our old coach.  Eventually I managed to realign it and re-secure its mounting, but in this instance I'd remove the ladder and find a metal shop to repair or re-fabricate it.  When we were running the farm we used to take stuff to local metal shops for fabrication or repair a lot, usually when the task was beyond our welding or metallurgical skills.  They often surprised me with no bill if they had just the right machine for the job and it only took a few minutes, or they were friends of an acquaintance.

Joel

[Jerald Cate]

Bill,

I recently repaired my ladder just as Ed mentioned above.  I had a fluffy air conditioner repairman bend both the lower sections as he was working on my roof, didn't see that modification until it was too late.  My neighbor has a sheet metal shop and he took the old pieces in and got me a couple of new sections bent up.  Removing the steps and end caps are simple just remove a few screws.  I went with a thicker wall on the tubing the pieces I removed had a 0.045" wall thickness, I installed a 0.125" wall thickness maybe not needed but it makes me feel better.  If you can't find a sheet metal shop that can bend the tubing you might check with shop that builds hydraulic lines, also the tubing can be bought on line then you just need to find somebody with the tools to bend it.  Also, recommend you don't drill up the new pieces until your installing them on the coach.  Good luck.

[Bill Borden]

Thanks all, I will look into a metal shop for repairs.  Thanks for all the input, it pays to listen to the ones that had been down this road before.

Larger wall thickness is a great idea.

We just completed installing a new skylight for the shower, new Koni shocks all the around (by the way best price for the Koni's was from Henderson Line Up, no tax and they paid for the freight, what a difference in the ride!) and this year we are planning on new tires for the back.

So this was unexpected and a new custom ladder is expensive.  It wasn't on my wish list at all.

I will update our progress in repairs.

The Forum comes to the rescue!  Again. Thank you!

Bill

[Bill Borden]

I spoke with my local welding/metal shop, and told him what I wanted to do and he told me no problem!

So next week I will take the ladder down and have the vertical poles and support matched and bent.  He also can 'up' the wall thickness to 0.125.

So it looks like my problem is solved and I am on my way to a repaired and improved ladder.

Thanks again for the advise.

Bill

[Joel Ashley]

The tricky part may be getting the mounting stanchions/standoffs precisely fitted on new verticals.  They are going to have to align perfectly with existing holes in the motor home or you're going to have trouble with the screws upon mounting the new setup.  As a precaution, after removal, you might want to take exact measurements between at least one screw hole center on one standoff site on the rear cap to other standoff screw hole centers, and pass them on to the fabricator.  If the old ones are bent much, he may appreciate the measurements.  

Joel

[Bill Sprague]

FWIW, the screws that hold our ladder together were loose when the motohome was delivered and have worked loose a couple times since then.  When loose, the stress on all the parts change and would lead to failure.    

[Joel Ashley]

On our old coach, I added a 4X4" piece of 3/4" marine plywood behind the cap fiberglass for the screws to get a bite into, wherever the screws were constantly backing out or not grabbing.  Before then, spider-cracking in the fiberglass was evident around screw sites, caused by stress over time in a material that isn't really designed as a good screw substrate on its own.  

Access from inside to mounting spots up high may be difficult or impossible, but if it can be done, a wood piece glued in position can help.

Joel

[MarcRodstein]

FWIW, the screws that hold our ladder together were loose when the motohome was delivered and have worked loose a couple times since then.  When loose, the stress on all the parts change and would lead to failure.    

Some Loctite might solve that once and for all.

[Bill Sprague]

On our old coach, I added a 4X4" piece of 3/4" marine plywood behind the cap fiberglass for the screws to get a bite into, wherever the screws were constantly backing out or not grabbing.  Before then, spider-cracking in the fiberglass was evident around screw sites, caused by stress over time in a material that isn't really designed as a good screw substrate on its own.  

Access from inside to mounting spots up high may be difficult or impossible, but if it can be done, a wood piece glued in position can help.

Joel

Joel,

I'm talking about the screws that hold the ladder assembly together, not the ones that attach to the motorhome.

[Larry Dedrick]

Bill B.
          I noticed you mentioned installing a new skylight, and I am planning on doing the same, could you pass along any suggestions that you have on the project. There is an inner liner as well, did you also replace that. Who was your supplier.

                        Thanks in Advance:                    Larry D.

[Bill Borden]

Larry,

Not a problem, I ordered the Skylight from Beaver in Bend, the inter and the outer part of the skylight is one piece.  They had it in stock.

The procedure is straight forward, remove all old caulking, remove the 30 + stainless steel screws, skylight, double stick gasket, clean the surface.  Use the 1 1/2 " wide double stick foam gasket replace the 30 odd SS screws, apply new sealer, then open a beer.  Cost the Skylight was around $130.00, + shipping + boxing.  The final number from Bend was about $190.00.

It was a good project, our skylight had small cracks around the flange and so many little fracture cracks you really couldn't see out.  Now the Sun just shins on in.

Good luck,
Bill

[Bill Borden]

By the way I have an update on the ladder Saga.

When I was discussing the ladder and a purchase of a new ladder with Beaver in Bend they mentioned Christianson Industries, this is where they purchase the ladders from.

So I gave them a call, I was surprised with their response, a new ladder built to match the old one, was quoted at $150.00 plus $25.00 boxing charge, plus freight.  Lead time is 4 weeks. Way better than the $455.00, + frieght, + $75.00 for boxing I was quoted.

Plus they sent me a schematic for me to use.  I have attached a copy for your info.

Christianson Industries Inc. [ci.orderdesk@yahoo.com] they are in Michigan.

I think I will still go to the local Metal Shop and have a stronger one built.

Bill