Gary,
I do not think that the water heater would ever be fed from the inverter circuit so the feed must originate from the main breaker panel. Start by pulling the cover and measure each breaker output side to neutral or ground to assure all circuits are working and have 120V output. A breaker can fail internally and have no output so you need to measure it to be sure. While there with the 120V coach feed off you can check tighten all the breaker output wire screws and the ground and neutral lugs as a check.
The wiring at the heater switch will tell you something about what is going on. If it is a standard 120V type wall switch in a box using Romex then it will probably feed the heating element directly. If it is single wires and 120V then I think they would be in flexible conduit and color coded black, white, and green wires per the NEC codes. If not and it is a lighter wire and switch, and not housed in a junction box then it is a low voltage control for a relay that is probably housed somewhere in the compartment with the heater. Look for a covered box or some small panel with a cover. I am using logic here and sometimes Beaver builds were not always logical....
The other possibility is that the heater is wired into a circuit that has a GFI outlet on it before it reaches the heater and that could be tripped or defective now, especially if the old heating element failed in a way that brought shorting current to neutral or ground as opposed to being an open. Try and reset all the GFIs in the coach and if one of the buttons seems stuck or will not reset pull it and check it out.
Last but not least, call BCS, ask Ken Carpenter who the electrical guy is and see if he will pass you through. They must have some idea how this circuit would be controlled if a low voltage on off circuit was involved and where that is housed. Hope this helps.
Later Ed