Ice Maker

[Jim Shaw]

My ice maker has not worked for the last year because of a leak in the supply line I had closed the valve on the line. I finally found and repaired the leak, opened the valve and I am getting water to back of the refrigerator but when I checked there is no water in the ice maker. Do I need a new ice-maker?

[LaMonte Monnell]

Jim, there may be a clog in the line at the icemaker. My ice maker tray was nasty with gook and water stains. I decided to change mine out with a new one.

[Jim Shaw]

  Can I remove it from inside the refrige? Not sure about the water line inside the refrigerator?

Thanks

[Joel Ashley]

I'll let LaMonte answer your question to him.  I'm not sure how similar your unit is to ours, but will mention that our icemaker plugs in separately from the fridge, and because it's 110v it has a separate breaker;  you might check that out, just in case.  You say you've repaired a line leak, but don't say where, so I'll assume the icemaker filter near the pump isn't plugged.

Also, if the fridge was without 12v. supply during freezing weather sometime along the line since you shut off the valve, the solenoid behind the fridge may have failed due to any heat tape protection having not worked, although I'd think the solenoid case would show leakage if it had cracked from freezing.  I (paranoid as I am) commonly drain my solenoid in the Fall anyway, in case the heat tape fails.  It's also possible that electrical connections to the solenoid are corroded or loose.

You can check the solenoid operation, and the ice drive overall, by popping off the icemaker's white cover and manually advancing the drive with a screwdriver (so you don't have to wait for the drive to cycle on its own);  see your manual or find manufacturer's instructions online.  With the solenoid's outlet hose removed, you or a helper should see water flow out of the solenoid when the drive motor rotates to where contacts briefly open the valve.  If you've got it there, then that hose between the solenoid and the trough inside must be blocked.

Just some ideas to ponder.

Joel

[Jim Shaw]

Thanks Joel I was wondering about the solenoid but was not sure how to check it. My refrigerator in in my 2003 Monterey and is a Norcol.
 

[LaMonte Monnell]

On my Norcold 1200LRIM the icemaker water line clip on above the icemaker. It was quite simple to get the icemaker out. Thats how I found the water reservoir was full of white dried up where the water was sitting. I ordered a new icemaker on Amazon for $49 bucks and just replaced .

[Jim Shaw]

Thanks I will take mine out tomorrow. If I remove the ice maker I should be able to find out if water is getting to it by turning on the water. If water is not getting to the line that hooks to it then there could be a problem with the solenoid. Does that sound correct.
Thanks Jim

[Joel Ashley]

I was somewhat ignorant of icemakers until some years ago when I discovered that, at least for units of that era, they were all quite similar;  the design was essentially the same for Norcolds, Dometics like I've always had, and my "old" residential GE, for example.  My most recent house GE fridge is different, with a loud, aggravating Samsung-built ice maker that has similarities to the icemakers up to 2010 or so, but the drive electronics and mechanism are different, and of course are harder to work on.

I'm assuming your Norcold is like our '06 Dometic, therefore, and you can pop off the faceplate on the icemaker's front to access the clock drive mechanism, Jim.  The solenoid itself in the back is essentially the same and little changed over the decades for any fridge;  like most it should be easy to get at to remove and refit the two water lines or check connectors.  Make sure no wires got damaged somewhere along the line also.

It sounds like LaMonte's unit had a calcium/lime build-up.  Another good reason to use a filter of some kind.  I like our portable blue water softener myself, but there are plenty to choose from.  The small ice maker filter near the pump may have been overwhelmed in LaMonte's case.  They do need replacement once in awhile.

LaMonte and you might also consider that the solenoid may be at least somewhat restricted by scale buildup inside also.  A vinegar bath may be an idea for it, as it perhaps it could've for the icemaker.

Joel

[LaMonte Monnell]

I think mine sat full of water and it dried up and left a nasty buildup. I do have a filter on it now.
I had to replace the cooling unit as soon as I bought the coach and replaced the icemaker then when I saw how nasty it was.

[Jim Shaw]

Thanks for all the help, I will work on it today.
Jim

[Joel Ashley]

Thanks I will take mine out tomorrow. If I remove the ice maker I should be able to find out if water is getting to it by turning on the water. If water is not getting to the line that hooks to it then there could be a problem with the solenoid. Does that sound correct.
Thanks Jim

You said in your original post that you'd repaired the line and was getting water to the back of the fridge, Jim.  To know that you should've seen water at the solenoid back there;  it's readily apparent from its blue housing.  As I recall, the incoming line fastens with a small compression nut.  If you remove it, be very cautious putting it back, as the threads are tricky to properly re-engage without crossing them and ruining things.  I don't remember having trouble with the output line.  You should be able to see water through their translucency.

Joel

[Neal Strickberger]

The icemaker in my Norcold runs on 120AC, so make sure you have AC at the frig, then check voltage on the solenoid (on mine located in the water line at rear of unit and easily accessible) - if you have 120 on the solenoid and no water into the icemaker replace it (or take it apart and clean it), appears to be a pretty standard part.

[Jim Nichols]

Our water solenoid accessible from out side is 12volt.