OK, Got it figured out.
I pulled the switch and hooked it to nitrogen and my gauge set ran pressure tests to determine exactly how the switch works. The switch is labeled dc, overide, thermo, comp. There are two switches in there dc and overide and thermo and comp. DC/overide makes at 200psi and when pressure drops it breaks at 150. I ran it to 375 and never broke. Thermo/comp made at 30 psi and broke somewhere around 300 ( I forget that number right now). Once I knew this I knew how things needed to be hooked up. As we all know, when these old coaches get worked on through out the years you never know what monkey worked on it before. Mine only has three wires leaving one of the spades not used. I had 12v, fan and comp. What I determined was that I needed 12v to each switch so I made a jumper from 12v to thermo. I then put the fan on overide and compressor to comp. When I turn on the switch it makes the switch for the compressor and as the pressure rises on the high side it brings on my condenser fan motor to regulate the head pressure, (It's a fan cycling switch like we use to control head pressure). So now if the head pressure reaches 300 it drops the compressor and keeps the fan running to lower the head and when its low enough it will remake the compressor. Like wise if I run the air in colder weather and its not warm enough outside to keep the head pressure up the fan will cut at 150 until the head comes back up to 200 and keep cycling.
I know I am saying a lot here and some of you say "of course" but finding what a "trinary switch" actually does crucial for me to understand how to hook it up. Maybe someone else could use it. We don't use trinary switches in the ac world but use the same switches singularly for the same results.
Since my trinary had a bad schrader behind it I had to pull the r12 to do this so I used this opportunity to convert it to 134a. She is working like a charm.
Thanks for all the input.