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Shop in SC hit me for $5.5K. They said they were able to attach new hoses to the existing ones and pull them through. That surprised me as I thought they were tied into other hoses as they ran through the frame. The initial symptom that started about 6-12 months prior to the slides moving while traveling was that the salon slide would move out about 1" while the coach was stored or the geni slide would move when the salon slide was activated. These symptoms only happened once or twice, making me think I may have had a solenoid leaking.
Steve
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Thanks Steve. I have no slide creeping or leaks but will look into changing out the lines. Out of curiousity Do you recall what a shop charged you?
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Larry,
I had a similar issue with my 07 Contessa about a year ago. It was caused by leaking hydraulic hoses. if the "plastic" coating is starting to flake off the hoses, it is due to the hoses starting to break down. My problem first showed itself with the slides starting to extend while driving and then retracted unevenly.
Steve
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Thought I would ask the experts before I go any further. Both my Galley and Main slide extend and retract unevenly on my 07 Contessa Laguna 4. Main side front ram trails the rear ram by 4-6". Similar circumstance with the Galley side. I have removed all 5 rams (Genny ram was leaking) and had them rebuilt. Condition same. Drained and replaced all fluid. Tested pump pressure-(1500psi good) Removed pump manifold and thoroughly cleaned and inspected everything. Bench tested all 3 cartridge valves with 12V power-all 3 exhibit the same valve movement. Unfastened the rams from main slide to observe operation without load-same result-rear ram travels faster than front ram. Front ram very slow??? to completely retract???. Swapped rams with same result in front. Galley slide I have forgot what I have done to this point. I have not messed with the slide vertical or rod play adjustments. Removed and tested diverter valve according to Lippert-OK.

At this point I am suspecting a collapsed hose and would sure love to hear from somebody with this or similar condition.
Also need a diagram of the hydraulic lines. None found in Coachnet.
Baffled!!!

PS: I believe the Galley and main slide symptom (identical) are related somehow but I just don't know how without the hydraulic schematic. Many of the hose identification tags have fallen off or are missing.
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Technical Support / Re: Valid fuse
« Last post by Al Postma on June 02, 2024, 02:22:19 AM »
Thank you guys, I changed fuse F 46 and the keyboard came right up.  Thank you so much.  Now ... after the keyboard came up, I attempted to get the generator to move out and ... it moved and works well in and out.  Now I know the only thing that heals itself is the human body so I assume whatever was causing the generator to not move is still an issue and will pop up again.

Thanks again for your help, I really appreciate it.
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Technical Support / Re: Valid fuse
« Last post by Steve Huber Co-Admin on June 01, 2024, 01:50:44 PM »
Al,
Sounds like you may have lost 12v. Couple of items to check.. On the large PC board in the front electrical bay there are 3 large terminals (lugs) on the right side as you are looking at the board. The top one is House battery voltage, the middle is Chassis battery voltage and the bottom on is Gnd. Check to  see if you have voltage at the top 2. A drawing of the layout is on sheet 2 of of the 07 Contessa wiring diagrams in Coach Assist.
If you don't have voltage at one or both of the terminals check for a blown ANL fuse(s) in the rear run box (rear bay, pass side). Diagram is on pg 18 of 07 Contessa wiring diagrams.
if you have voltage F42 is for the front hydraulics so it should run the generator slide. (uses chassis voltage).
Steve
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Technical Support / Re: Valid fuse
« Last post by Al Postma on June 01, 2024, 02:22:07 AM »
I can't get the generator to come out, might be a bad fuse there as well.  I changed fuse #20 and nothing changed.
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General Discussion / Re: 2004 Cummins ISL 400
« Last post by Eric Maclean on May 31, 2024, 06:41:34 PM »
Don
Your post states your working on a 2004 with a Cummins and your profile shows you have a 2006.
For clarification we need to know What year make  and model are we working on to get the wiring diagrams right
We need to know whether it's a engine no crank or crank no start.

With that said here goes.
You stated you have poor or low voltage to the ECM

1) First check the ignition side buss bar in the electrical bay to be sure the ignition solenoid is not going. Bad your looking to see if you have a good 12 volts with the ignition on..next check each of the ECM feed circuit breaker on that buss bar to verify it has good voltage going out .

2) depending on the coach in the rear usually in the back of the battery bay there should be an ECM power relay check it to make sure you don't have a bad wire or a bad relay.

3) check. The wiring around the battery area your looking for 2 or 3 fuse holders ( again coach dependant)  these supply direct 12 volts to the ECM and the TCM and can get corroded from the battery acids causing problems.

4) check all your battery cables and ground connections

Hope this helps
Eric
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Technical Support / Re: Valid fuse
« Last post by Steve Huber Co-Admin on May 31, 2024, 01:11:15 PM »
F20 is the Valid Air compressor fuse.  F46 should power the controller/keypad.
Have you checked the circuit breaker on the generator?
Steve
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Technical Support / Re: Valid fuse
« Last post by Chuck Jackson on May 31, 2024, 12:52:35 PM »
I had a 2008 Contessa, and I saved a screenshot of an old post here on the forum where another owner defined the Valid air leveling fuse as F20.
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