Dutch Aire 120 volt Compressor cooling for 1210 Norcolds

[Roland DuBree]

Dutch Aire now makes a 120 volt compressor unit to replace failed gas absorption cooling units on the rear of my Norcold 1210 refrigerator (Dometics too.)  The unit uses all the controls of the 1210 and draws much less AC power than any residential refrigerators that fit the space.  It can be replaced inside the coach  - no taking out a window to put a residential in the coach.  It sound like a great way to go!  ANYONE TRIED ONE?  IS IT GOOD OR BAD?  Like to hear comments from someone with one.

[Bill Lampkin]

I decided against the Dutch Air HVAC refrigeration retrofit after much research (2 years!). I've read some reviews which said  there can be excessive condensation on the fins inside the fridge. I think the fix from Dutch Aire is to add fans which blow air across the fins. Sounds like they are fixing the symptom, not the problem. And at least one user reported marginal cooling at 95F. Also, even if all works well after the swap, you still have a 12 cu ft fridge. We just ordered a Fisher Paykel RF170 french door fridge to replace our Norcold (which was working fine, by the way). I just had to remove the drawers under the fridge and lower the fridge floor. Not too bad really. The new fridge will have a food section that is as large than the whole Norcold. One complication was that FP said the fridge needed true sine wave power, not modified sine wave like my original Xantrex inverter. So I put in a new Xantrex 2000w inverter. Fun to do, as the 55 lb inverter is mounted upside down to the ceiling of my pass through storage bay. Ugh! Modifications completed today, hope to have the new fridge installed this week. Many have had great success with the Dutch Air HVAC (12v and 120v) conversions, but after much thought I decided to go in a different direction. We'll see how it works out!

[Roland DuBree]

According to the newer literature The Dutch Aire Hvac 120 volt AC unit it is supplied with a 2 fan assembly that attaches to the fins. So this probably gets rid of the problem you mentioned. I had installed a 12 vdc fan used for computer chip cooling in the 1210 to circulate air.  It gave me better cooling inside.  I decided this morning to get the Dutch Aire compressor unit because they overwhelmed me with an offer to replace my Dutch Aire standard regular Gas/Electric unit that was installed in Feb. 2016 and well out of warranty for a $225.00 shipping charge with 3 year std warranty and an additional 3 years for $125.00.  They state it is less that a 4 hour job to replace. It seemed the best bargain for now. My local come to my house RV service will install for $95.00/hour. After 3 failures of 1210 rear units, one which almost burned up the coach in 16 years I was done with gas absorption units. This is worth a try. It gives me residential operation without the costs of a std. residential Frig., modify cabinet and going thru a window cost to install. (My front door is only 24" wide) This unit is also only a .8 amp, 97 watt power draw, much less than a std. residential too.

[Roland DuBree]

Here is an update on this install.  it was about a 4 hour job to pull the 1210 out of the hole, remove the old gas absorption rear and install the new Hvac assemby. Now the unit sits on my kitchen floor as we wanted to make sure it worked before going back into the hole. Ran over night with Temp set on an old left over # 5. Next morning I looked inside to see temp at -21* with -46* in freezer compartment. (No food inside) As soon as temp setting reduced to # 1 the compressor shut off. Now waiting for temperatures to go down inside to see what is maintained at # 1.  Unit runs quite, produces little heat at rear coils and draws so little amps my Progress Industries unit on electric supply reads 0 amps on that supply leg.  I would say if you have a gas absorption system go bad or just want to replace the possible fire hazard and are satisfied with the capacity of your Norcold or Dometic install the Dutch Aire Hvac residential type unit with its std 3 year warranty. So far it looks great to me! With the little heat produced and all the space behind and above the refrigerator I wonder if all the vents built into the coach are even necessary.

[Bill Lampkin]

Roland, Glad you are having good luck with your conversion! You will want to seal off the ceiling vent and outside vent, as your fridge does not need venting like the Norcold did. Just like the fridge in your house, no vents needed. I used a piece of 2" rigid foam board to fill the ceiling vent and outside vent hole. Glued the foam board to a piece of masonite that I cut to fit the hole, then painted white. I can still access the rear of the refrigerator thru the original outside vent. 

[jeffprupis]

Installed it in AUG. Love it, no problems as of yet.